Coming from a practical world. Being an Electro-Mechanical Engineer. Able to fix almost anything around the garage or home. I find it impossible to believe that the best advice is to throw away a carburetor just because it has no tag. I would find a kit using my brain, pictures and examining/emailing carb sites.
I too, do not want to offend. Personally or professionally. I understand so many models made. I just hope someone can hear how it sounds to say replace a good rebuildable carb because it has no tag.
I try to understand everyone's advice, especially a professional. I assume that they have a whole lot of work to do. Lots of customers with tags. It may be economically unfeasible to screw around trying to figure out what carb model it is. However this advice to one guy with one carb, telling them to "replace" it, is economically unfeasible advise to a tinker'er, home mechanic, truck nut with plenty of time. If it ain't broke, put a carb kit in it. Many kits come with several different/extra parts and gaskets to cover several models. A "B" is a good carb and easy to rebuild with videos available online. B, BC, BV are identifiable, so it's not 284 carbs.
"Some Rochester B carburetors also had the last 4 digits of the carburetor number stamped on the bottom of the mounting flange. Just add "700" in front of the number and you have your carburetor number." (Mike's Carb Shop)
This is just a different perspective from a professional DIY person. You don't get a carb with a tag very many times.
IF you have a B:
B - Manual choke
BC - Choke thermostat mounted on carburetor.
BV - Divorced choke thermostat mounted on intake manifold.
Your flat stem accelerator pump indicates B or BC. The kit you linked from Mike's looks good. You probably have compared all the parts shown in his pics to the ones you have. I have used that vendor many times. He answers my emails and is very helpful. He has several videos on the B rebuild. If the gasket is not correct looking, he has all the parts available separately with pictures.
There are a few mistake you can make so be sure you watch and read about B rebuild/general carb rebuild.
To answer your latest question: WATCH the videos from Mike's Carb Shop and you will see where the balls go, which ball and etc. Seems like I remember there is a stainless steel ball and an aluminum ball? There could be extra parts in the kit. That is normal. Carbs are easy to install and try. Bolt it down, hook up the gas and run it. One of the caveats in the videos is about balls getting stuck down in the hole and you don't notice it did not come out and sometimes throwing another ball on top of it or just having a stuck ball.
Your Mike's carb link shows 3 balls in the kit with at least two sizes. Two look like SS and one looks like aluminum. If there are only two balls used in the instructions then obviously there will be one left over. Mike explains the SS vs AL ball in one of the videos. Use your old guts to verify the new guts. Simple.
Pro's Like Jon and Mike, make sure you get the right parts. They make sure the pump seal is E10 friendly and the rest of the parts are proper. The O'Reilly's kit may not.
