Because parts of that whole assembly are prone to leaking, especially when doing a "reseal" with used seals/gaskets, whenever I disconnect the enclosed driveline at the u-joint, I spend the $$ on the gasket kit:.
I agree, once the seal has been broken, you are better off to start fresh again.
Sad but true.
The seal at the knurled nut on the tube is compressed by tightening the knurled nut, making a tight seal. Unless the seal is cracked, just tightening the knurled nut will stop your leak.
That advice will work only if the seal is still supple.
To bad there isn't away to just replace the retainer oil seal, without removing the the ball housing.
Example: Unscrew retainer cap, slide 1 washer froward, take out old oil seal,
cut and put in new oil seal, slide washer rearward, screw on retainer cap. Done
But you would have to figure out away to reconnect the splice in the oil seal.
