Tyler,
You haven't said if it runs or not, or if the brakes work? Since I have started to remove my rear brakes, here is what I have found.

I got new cups and end covers. Two cylinders per wheel. Both cylinders on each wheel only had one side working, other rusted or stuck with yellowish Al corrosion. Was able to clean everything up, replacing both cylinders now.

One shoe adjuster broken by me because would not adjust. Shoes might be zink, won't weld. Made steel bracket to repair. Needed gentle heat and large wrench to get adj. bolt loose and remove to remove solidified grease.

Was able to hone the cylinders to remove corrosion, White Post Res. In VA will reline for $125. Per.

Since both our trucks came from the rust belt, you might encounter similar conditions.

New bleeders to replace rusted ones are available from NAPA, PN Z4148, .437" x 20 threads, they also have the Cu washers, although they are thicker. Same bleeders work on front.

Was able to find Cu washers for the wheel cylinders, two sizes, NAPA PNs: 3877 for large ID one, 1243 for small ID one.


To loosen nuts holding cylinder to backing plate, had to use 4' cheater on breaker bar. Be prepared for rusted hardware.

For anyone reading this, these are FR-3 rear brakes on a '54 GMC 630, 6" by 16" brakes shoe PN FF3144. New shoes are nonexistent. These brakes also appear on others, Brockway for sure. They take a .375" Allen wrench to adjust.

Ed

Last edited by EdPruss; 10/22/2018 4:03 PM.
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.