I’m interested in this too, as I have just replaced the door lock. I took the wafer tumblers out of my old broken lock and put them in my new to me used old stock lock, so now the key codes don’t apply. I posted about it here:
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...20/3/door-lock-cylinder-replacement.html I’m still interested in all the fine details, so I’ve been researching, Please correct me if anything here is off. Here is where you can find the the key code list:
http://selectric.org/manuals/locks/index.html This list appears to be Briggs & Stratton, so you may need to add 1 to each number if you go to a locksmith that uses the Curtis numbers.
Here is some information I found: GM used the same keyway groove style (Briggs and Stratton groove style 15) from 1935 to 1966. B & S B10 and B11 blanks, B10 is the octagon and B11 round.
The code will be 6 numbers that tell the depth of the tumblers-and color-and the depth of the key cut
The codes number from 8000 to 9499, giving everyone 1499 different codes to deal with.
There are 6 tumblers and 4 different depths.
If you look at the Curtis book, it has no #1 depth but it does have a #5. Subtract 1 from each number shown in Curtis and you get the B&S depths
C is a copper tumbler
N is nickle
B is black
Y is yellow
Key cut #1 is actually not even cut.2 is .025" 3 is .050" and 4 is .075....and thats the four depths
