Update 25Apr2018
The work continues as I try not to go to far down the rabbit hole before I even turn her over.
Step 5-The Brakes.
All the brakes have been restored. I replaced everything except the backing plate on all four tires, replaced the emergency brake cables and the pedal return spring. The huck brakes are a real pain to get parts for, and waiting a week between ordering and receiving is really slowing my progress. I really should plan and research more before ordering, that way I can get all the parts in one single order, plus it saves on shipping! The truck hasn't hit the ground since the brakes were repaired and I continue to tackle little bits of multiple different projects. While replacing the brakes with the truck suspended on jack stands, I noticed some movement in the drivers side front tire. At first I thought maybe the 33ft/lbs I put on the castle nut wasn't tight enough, turns out the drag link is loose, probably rusty broken springs. I ordered a new one and it is awaiting install.
Step 6-Seatbelts and Interior.
Since the cab interior is totally stripped and painted, I began the install of 3 point seatbelts. At first I was a bit apprehensive to start drilling holes in the interior especially since I didn't have an installed seat to check shoulder belt height. I did plenty of research and read through Daves Tech Net seat belt installation tutorial probably 20 times. That along with viewing videos and other instructional posts I determined my shoulder belt height to be 40.5" from the floor. I drilled the main bolt hole and was fortunate enough not to drop the backing plate inside the cab shell. I had marked where the other two holes would be, drilled them and then welded through the interior cab skin to the backer plate....Success. Both shoulder supports and the belt spool are now mounted with both backer plates welded. I can't fit the latch belts until I get my seat and base back in the truck.
While waiting for the upholsterer I have installed about 75% of the noise dampening material. I started about midway up the back wall, and have worked in all the way under the dash on the passenger side. I did the rear wall and floor, under the seat, the transmission cover and the passenger floor and wall. I am dragging my feet a little on the drivers side due to all the pedals etc, its going to take a lot of smaller pieces to fit around all that junk. I also did the entire inner roof, so hopefully that and the headliner I have designed should reduce the noise from the top.
Step 7-Front Metal.
On the front of the truck I took the new grill, splash apron, gravel guard, seat frame, and both sides of the hood latch to powder coating. They were finished in a gloss black that looks pretty cool with the old school patina on the truck and the hood closes and latches!. I was thoroughly impressed with the quality of the finished parts, there is some visible pitting in the original metal from rust and 70 years of driving around but most of it is on the gravel guard. I replaced the bumper brackets and front bumper, the original bumper had tow bar mounts welded to it and once they were removed there were big chips out of it. I installed new driving lights in the grill, and ran the headlight wiring into the engine compartment and have new terminal blocks awaiting installation. I have a new chrome rear bumper awaiting installation as well.
Step 8-The Engine Compartment.
As far as the Engine goes, I found a local Chevy parts guy with a used original 1948 underbed gas tank I picked up for $80. I figured it was a good deal as it came with a filler neck and a complete strap set. The previous owner at some point had removed the original tank and installed one behind the seat in the cab. This was obviously not a guy concerned with doing it right as it looks to me like he cut the hole in the cab with a screw driver and hammer. The holes on the inside and outside of the cab with need some welding and body work before paint. I did the poor mans pressure test on the tank as instructed by my local radiator shop. He had me plug all the holes and dump in about a quart of acetone, then tape the fuel filler tube really tight with duct tape and shake. Before I did this I thought to myself, acetone + pressure could be bad so I gathered up all my safety equipment first goggles, respirator, and gloves then went to work. He was right about the pressure as my first attempt showed me a lack of tape at the fuel filler. I taped the crap out of the hole then went about shaking the acetone inside the tank. I am happy to say the tank is sound! Once I can clean up the straps, the new tank and fuel line will be mounted to the frame and I'll be ready for the next step. I am planning on hard line down the frame, then a short piece of flexible fuel line from the hardline to the fuel pump. I don't want to put undue stress on the hardline with the (fingers crossed) movement of the engine while running.
I popped the cap of the distributor and noticed the points adjusting screw was hollowed out, remembering the attention the points require I set out to look for a new charge plate. Turns out, charge plates are really hard to find, so I ordered a rebuilt distributor and installed it. I may send the original off for rebuild sometime in the future, nothing wrong with having a spare. I am thinking of trying to crank the motor soon, I need to replace radiator hoses, and plug the temp sensor hole. As I am looking around the engine, I notice a worn and cracked fan belt, obviously something that wouldn't take to long term storage so I loosened up the alternator and took it off. Immediately I noticed both the alternator and water pump have a good amount of resistance on them, so more parts on order.
Step 9-The seat.
During all this other nonsense I had taken my seat to be reupholstered, I got it back after about 3 weeks and its beautiful. I used a thicker leather like vinyl in a dark gray and black, it turned out fantastic! I can't wait to get it back in the cab, its currently taking up a large amount of space in my walk-in closet as I don't have room for it in the garage. I am missing a ziploc of seat hardware, it is hiding from me, so the search is on. I have a new stainless cable to run to the pulleys once I find the missing parts, after that the seat and base will be ready for the road. I had the same guy take my cardboard door panels and cover them with the same material, these are going to look great once the door are reassemble and are hanging back on the hinges. I had my upper hinges rebuilt from a local guy, he charged me $80 for the set, they look brand new and should now hold the door open as designed.
This is my progress so far. am trying not to go too far, but it turns out there is a lot to do to get one of these old trucks back on the road.
Last edited by Peggy M; 10/13/2023 2:08 AM.
