Re-sleeving a cylinder is a risky business- - - -getting the old one out without doing damage to the block is a tricky process. If you choose to sleeve all the cylinders, skip around. For instance, start by sleeving cylinders 1,3, and 5, then go back for 2,4,and 6. There's less chance of stressing the block and creating a warp that way. Back when I was teaching machining and had all the equipment I needed and students to do the grunt work I did a lot of sleeving. When someone at the race track was ready to discard a 350 Chevy block he thought was "worn out", I'd gladly take it and sleeve it back to standard bore. All the expensive prep work had already been done- - - -line boring, decking, etc. Some blocks had even been smoothed up inside and painted with oil-proof Glyptal transformer paint for better drainage back into the crankcase. I was glad to save those blocks from the scrap heap. Eventually some of my competitors figured out they were getting outrun by their own junk, however!
Since labor cost has to be factored into most folks' budget, stuff I would do routinely has to be reevaluated in terms of cost VS benefit. Not everybody has a boring bar stashed away in the corner of the shop!
Jerry
