The better play here, at least in my opinion, is to redo the process. Remove the main caps (mark them for placement and direction because if the middle two caps get turned around, plays all kinds of havoc with the bearings. I mark my middle caps with two and three divots respectively, on the forward part of the cap to signify no. 2 cap front, and no. 3 cap front).

Remove the crank and the rope seal. Inspect the upper bearing shells for any obvious signs of squashing, jamming, rubbing. Same for the bearings in the caps. If they look good, light oil on the upper bearings and reinstall the crank. Rotate the crank. It should rotate relatively easily but not you push on a counterweight and it spins like a Ferris wheel.. Wipe the journal and clean for a nice dry surface. Lay in a little plastiguage. Wipe and clean the lower bearing shells that are in the caps, then Very light lube on the lower bearing shells, the lighter the better, think sewing machine oil. Install the caps and torque to specification. Remove the caps and confirm that the clearances are what they should be, .001-.003 with .015 as really good, and a little variation as good. Outside of those values, some corrective action will need to be taken, shims for the early motors if too tight, otherwise remachining the crank for example.

If the clearances come up to spec then wipe off the plasticguage and the bearing shell, and lube the lower bearing shell with fresh oil, 30 wt. or so, install the caps, torque to spec and then gently rotate the crank. Should be able to rotate with a little more force. Should not be any binding or binding spots as you rotate. If rotating and no binding, then dissemble the caps, lift the crank out, wipe the bearings clean, lube with fresh lube or assembly lube (I use lubrimatic assembly lube but any good brand will do the job) install the neoprene seal, little offset on the seal, I usually will put a tiny little dab of of sealant on the ends of the seal (I am not particular here, I have used anaerobic, silicone with good results), little swipe of lube on the seal so that you are not doing a dry initial rotation that can tear up the seal, and install the crank. Clean the lower bearings again, assembly lube, install the lower mail seal in the lower rear cap, little swip of assembly lube on the seal and install the caps and torque down. You should still be able to rotate the crank, but with more force. If so, you are in pretty good shape.


Mike