Martin and Tim, I found two ground straps (dash to engine and block to frame) and the ends of the frame/block strap was looking a little grungy, so I cleaned both ends, the attachment points on the frame and block and reattached them. Both straps had good continuity, so I moved under the dash again, and figured out that it is the low beams that are working, but not the high beams (I guessed yesterday, but confirmed with the multi meter that voltage flows to the low beam wire only. Hi/low beam switch is good in both positions confirmed by switching the low beam wire to the hi beam post and getting it to light from either post)
When I pulled the headlight switch from the dash, it looked grungy and didn't operate smoothly, so I blasted it with contact cleaner inside and out. Started checking continuity across all terminals by leaving one probe in the power feed terminal and touching all others until I got them all to show continuity with the switch in position 1 and 2. There was something that looked like the points in a distributor, so I ran some fine sandpaper through them to get some fresh metal showing. Threw the switch back in the dash and some success! I got dash lights to work but no dome light even though the dome is getting juice.
Any thoughts on why the high beams don't work? I'm still confused by the continuity of the hi beams at the fuse box with the fuse pulled. I checked voltage at the high and low beam fuse terminals, but didn't get 6v, it was .15 for high beams (fuse still pulled) and .05 at the low beams, so I have no ideas on this one.
Brake lights still only light up as a running light and only one wire is hot when the switch on. Neither the stop nor tail lamp wires were carrying any voltage at the fuse box with the light switch turned on which is weird if I can get the tail light to turn on.
I feel good about today's limited success and even got the radio to light up (but no noise), but can't get the headlights or tail lights sorted yet.
