Removing the circular springs made a huge difference. What you are left with is a very weak spring on the other side of the carb that will barely close the butterfly. Prior to removing the strong springs, my linkage (the one supplied with the kit) was bending under the force required to move it from idle to WOT and my gas pedal was ridiculously stiff, even after making sure that I had all the geometry correct....I assembled the linkage pieces in 4 different arrangements to find the best result that I could get with those parts, then I fashioned up an extra large bell crank from parts from an old GMC that I have in the yard, and then used a couple weak springs that I found at the hardware store. The pic with the spring inside the spring is what I ultimately ended up with. I already had a bracket on my bell housing that I could use to hook the other end of the springs into.

You must add a spring somewhere to the linkage after removing the springs at the carbs, because they don't really want to close all the way to the idle stop after you remove those stiff spindle springs. In my experience, the reason that the gas pedal feels so heavy, is because of the spindle springs on the carbs, combined with the horribly small lever on the other side of the carb spindle that must be pulled to get it to open all the way to WOT- it probably worked great in a Ford Escort with a single carb and a throttle cable with a lot of leverage, but rotating that tiny link with bad geometry a full 90 degrees with the linkage provided is asking a lot.... of course, it's entirely possible that I have arranged everything in a manner that is not optimal- but I could not discover a better way to use the parts provided.

I'm not sure what the original throttle linkage setup was, as mine was badly deformed and rusted when I got the truck, but I decided to make my new linkage so that when the gas pedal is pushed to the floor, the vertical linkage going up to the carbs is pulled "down". That's what I ended up with after juggling the parts around and getting tired of dealing with it.... I might have done something else if I had decided to just start from scratch and build a completely new linkage.

What I wanted was a gas pedal that felt just right, and the carb to go from idle to WOT with as much gas pedal travel as I could get, so that it would be easy to modulate my super duper hotrod 261engine. The result is kinda ugly, but it works great.

Hope that helps. Here's some pics:

Weber linkages

[EDIT] Jeese, all that and i never answered your question....I got my return springs at a well stocked True Value hardware store.

Last edited by Norcal Dave; 11/09/2017 7:21 AM.

~ Dave
1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission