As well as all-thread (or ready-rod) I also have some long 5/16-18 grade 5 bolts laying around. Using the appropriate sized cutting die I can try extending the threads further and use coarse locking nuts to hold the carb down.
Alternatively, new 24 pitch threads may be cut above the existing 18 pitch (manifold) threads and use the existing carb nuts. This will mimic the OEM studs, albeit longer.
Of course all this depends on whether the cutting die will actually cut into the grade 5 bolt. If not, then it's either ready-rod or a trip to FLAPS for longer studs.

But first I have to get those &*%$ing existing studs removed cry

So far, I've tried heating the surrounding (intake) cast with a heat gun and applying Liquid Wrench and letting it sit for a couple hours ...No Joy.
I'm tapping the head of the stud with a small hammer, and using the 2-nut method of gripping the stud. But find that the bottom nut just wants to unwind with the top nut when under a good amount of torque.

I've also discovered a vintage 1/2" drive Grey brand cam-style stud extractor in my stash.
So after reheating the cast then followed by an equal mix of ATF, acetone and paint thinner and leaving that soaking for a couple days, I thought I'd give the extractor a try.
The suspicion is that the extractor may mash up the lower part of the stud, but it's being replaced any way. A greater concern is snapping off the stud dang

To lower the risk, shall I also use an air impact wrench (tuned to 'low') on that extractor? headscratch