There were two different ways that the oiler was attached to the timing plate. Some were press fit, some were threaded. The threaded ones are 1/8"NPT.
I have made replacements before with a short 1/8"NPT brass nipple with a cap on the end. Drill a 1/16" hole into the side of the nipple so that it will be centered on the gears when installed. Aim the oil hole at the intersection of the two gears. Use Loctite red to keep the nipple from moving. Make sure the end facing the block does not protrude and block the oil channel milled into the block side of the timing plate. If it does, remove the fitting and grind the amount that protrudes off the end.
The manual states that the ones with the press fittings can not be repaired and that the timing plate should be replaced if the oiler is damaged. Probably true when timing plates were available and cheap at the dealers...not so now! You can carefully drill out the old fitting and tap the hole for 1/8" NPT threads and proceed as above.
Posting because you asked how they were attached...let's hope you can get yours cleared by HRL's tip and not have to worry how it is attached!
If you decide to pull the timing plate, here's a tip you might find helpful. You'll probably find the three slotted flat head screws used to secure the middle of the timing plate to the block can be a bear to loosen. I've struggled with (and mangled) too many of these until I finally took the time to figure out there had to be an easier way to do it. Try using a hand impact driver (the type that you whack with a hammer) with a screwdriver attachment large enough to fit the slots on the screws. Works like a charm. Not only can you loosen them easily this way, you save the screws and don't have to chase down replacements. Reverse the hand impact driver to tighten.
I made a screwdriver attachment by grinding down the shaft of a 3/8" hex bolt to make it fit exactly into the screw slot. I use a 9/16" socket on my impact driver, stick the ground-down bolt into the socket, and voila.
Good luck,
Matt
