I know this is non traditional, but before you get out the flaming torches and pitch forks, I'm interested in feedback.
I've used the 3M stuff a few times recently on other projects and find it has some advantages to welding. The biggest is no warping, so no weld, hammer and dolly, weld, etc.
Many new cars are assembled this way (doesn't make it right).
Flange the replacement panel and, as directed, spread the epoxy on both joint surfaces, than lay a bead 1/4" from the edge of one surface. Clamp in place and smooth the extra adhesive over the joint.
After it dries sand and it may not be necessary to use any body filler.
In areas where the back of the seam is not visible or is impossible to clamp, I fit the panel in place, drill some holes for pop rivets and remove the panel. Use dimpling pliers on the holes on both pieces to take countersunk rivets and then apply the adhesive. The rivets add strength to the joint and make assembly and alignment easy. It's also easier to smooth the joint with out the clamps in the way.
The epoxy also fills and seals the entire flange joint so there is no there is no way for moisture to get into the flange.
I used it on the recent 5 window conversion on the '51 COE, for the joint at the belt line. It was originally going to be spot welded as per factory specs, but the process of cleaning both sides of both surfaces (rusty original bottom and well primed new upper roof panel) perfectly bare for spot welding was daunting to say the least. Since the 2 panels were through bolted in 4 places to the rear cross brace, I didn't worry about strength So I only had to clean the joint surfaces. Also the idea of filling and sealing the whole joint instead of trying to squeeze a bead of sealer into the joint after welding was a plus.
I have some pics if I get around to moving everything to some place other than Photobucket.
