First you don't need residual valves.
The front lines should be 3/16", drum lines are 1/4"
The rod between the booster and master most likely needs adjustment. It should be about 0.020" from the master cylinder indent. This will bring up the pedal engagement
The easiest way to do this under the truck is separate the master off the booster and adjust the booster pin nut out 1 turns and then slide the master back on, It it sit flush the bring it out another turn, repeat until it does not fit flush and the turn back in one turn. This is often easier on the bench but doable under the truck rather quickly.
http://repairguide.autozone.com/zne.../80/09/2a/86/medium/0900c15280092a86.gifthis is a picture of the nut adjustment. The tool you don't need just the pliers and a 9mm ( i think ) wrench
Also turn the prop valve adjusting knob so its about mid way between all the way up and all the way down then rebleed the back.
The pedal will never be as high and and firm as it was with drums and no booster, The feel more resembles a modern pedal where its never really rock hard except when its off and no vacuum.
It seems low when your static engine off and not moving but when you are running and vacuum is applied it starts stopping with far less effort than before. Your pedal should be firm about 4" from the floor, engine off and not moving. Once it's moving and running you will see that it starts to stop at a higher pedal than 4" , this is due to the booster assist, if you adjust the rods to tight then you end up with your nose on the steering wheel every time you attempt to stop.
You can call me up to 9 pm CST to help you get it set up any day of the week. If I don't pick up leave a message with a good time to call back and i'll call you as soon as I can
This is any easy fix so don't make yourself crazy with it.
