Basically you find a premade line at O'Reilly's that fits the sender/pick up female. A line that you bend and route similar to the orig. Down thru a grommeted hole and aimed at the frame. Then you slide the nut back on that end of the premade steel line, slip a piece of rubber fuel line on it with a clamp. Other end of rubber hose attaches to the fuel line (slip over it with a clamp) that goes forward. This line is clamped to the frame as it travels toward fuel pump. The idea is to provide a flex between body mounted hard line and frame mounted hard line...or hard mounted frame line,,,whatever!
There is no need for a flex right after the pick up/sender line because there is no relative movement between tank and body.
The flare on a premade line that is for the flare nut is also a perfect barb for the rubber hose. No special hose or line is required.
I would not use a shut off valve, the outlet is not gravity fed so no problem with repairs.
The pads are mounted at rub points. Under where straps go around top and where tank rests. It will be obvious when you are assembling. They probably will stay where you put them. A thin dab of silicone won't hurt. They may not have been bonded, it may be that the old tar type melded to the metal.
Anti-squeak is also anti-rub-thru-the-tank during very small vibrations.
The 2 or 3 bends you put in the line between sender pick up and near frame act as anti vibration coils. I believe there are/were clamping points for that line inside cab and maybe under floor.
It is also necessary to have a rubber hose section between frame line and fuel pump. A good way is short rubber hose, then metal can
Filter tied to frame, then rubber up to pump.
