OK, one last suggestion. Once spark plugs have been very wet with gasoline from repeated starting attempts, priming, choking, etc. sometimes the insulated electrodes develop an invisible coating that lets the voltage leak away to ground instead of jumping the gap. On a few very rare occasions I've had to install new plugs to get an engine that was otherwise in time, and had fuel and compression, to light off.
Here's the absolute foolproof way to confirm distributor position- - - -remove the valve cover and watch the #6 cylinder valves as you roll the engine over (clockwise from the front, obviously). The last valve in line back by the firewall is the #6 exhaust. Turn the engine until that valve spring is fully compressed, then keep turning as that spring relaxes. Watch the second spring from the rear (#6 intake) until you see it just begin to compress. At that point, the distributor rotor should be pointing to the #1 spark plug wire. The BB lines up twice, since the crankshaft turns twice as fast as the distributor- - - -once with the #1 cylinder on compression, and again one turn later WHEN THE PISTON IS AT THE TOP OF THE EXHAUST STROKE. Firing the plug then assures a "no start" situation.
This method (known as "companion cylinder") eliminates all the guesswork about when #1 is at the top of the compression stroke, ready to fire the spark plug.
Jerry
Edit: The MOPAR resistor will drop the primary voltage too much for good performance. Temporarily bypassing the resistor won't hurt for diagnosis and you'll get a hotter spark during cranking. Just don't leave it that way or you'll have very short-life points.
Jerry
