( Taken from Deve's web site} To get a rope seal in there is tricky and starts with removing the torque tube bracket from the mid cross member, then removing the 4 bolts holding on the transmission. We need to slide the tranny back about 1/4 inch or so for the front bearing retainer to clear the pilot hole in the bell housing. This allows the transmission and crankshaft to drop together enough to remove and replace the upper seal. With everything loose, the Transmission will slide back easily, then we can proceed to loosen all four Crankshaft Main Caps. Do not remove them, just loosen. You want the crankshaft to drop down about 1/4" or so in the back so loosen the Front Cap but leave it in place, then loosen the mid/front cap a little more, then the mid/rear cap even a little more, then remove the rear cap completely. This may take some tweaking, loosening, etc, but you get the idea. With the caps sufficiently loose, the crank will come down enough to get the new seal in place.
Using Needle Nose Pliers, grab one end of the upper seal and pull down. Pull the old seal out of the cap as well. You will need to form the new upper seal in the cap first to ease installation in the block groove. Form it before cutting the seal. You want it to be extra long at this point. After the seal is formed you will be sliding it into place into the engine block. This can be done in many ways. There is a tool called a Sneaky Pete that grabs one end of the seal for pulling it around the crank and into place. It is also possible to poke safety wire through the seal near the end, feed the wire through the seal groove and pull the seal into place. Once the seal is in place, push the crank temporarily into place to seat the seal in its groove. This can be done by putting a jack under the flywheel. After the seal has been seated you will let the crank drop back down for cutting the ends. Once the crank is back down, slide a thin piece of metal against the crank side of the seal ends to support them while cutting them flush with the block. Once that is done, you can tighten and torque the front three main caps and put the transmission and mount back into place.
Form the seal in the cap and cut the seal ends leaving a slight bit of each end protruding. You want it longer so the two pieces sort of squash up against each other. Lay a thin path of gasket sealer from the seal area over to where the pan end gasket attaches and install and torque the rear cap. Torque the main bearing caps to 105 foot pounds and the rods to 40 foot pounds.
