One thing I would toss in the discussion. You might practice your gun movement to see how you are going to get around all those rounded surfaces (easier on the 67-72 slab siders) and think about that movement right before you paint your truck and also see where your hose is going to go. The robot will be highly upset if its hose fouls the paint job. I have to unwind/unwrap my hose after each coat. (get the kinks out)
Also with any paint job - you will spend a lot more time in prep and clean up of your tools than actual spray time. The paint job really is only about as good as the prep job. If your panels and surfaces are smooth and clean (tack rag) then your paint will lay on there correctly.
Gravity feed guns are ok for panels, but a remote tank is really nice for frames and fender wells where you can't turn the gravity feed gun upside down. Remote tanks have pressure heads and the head can be snaked around all over the place. However those hoses and tanks are more trouble to clean, and the gravity gun uses almost all your paint. HVLPs spit out the paint and don't seem to paint quite as well as the old high pressure guns, but, material transfer is so much better than you'll use way less paint. And you get way less overspray and noxious chemicals floating about.
Its also easier to get a consistent paint job when the vehicle is dissassembled and you can paint various bits flat on saw horses (mind that hose though). Just be really carefull putting it back together. Then you can robot over the panels and not worry about chasing the dry spot or overspray, and with a flat panel, sags are far less likely to occur.
Then again, these guys know far more about it than I do, but I thought I'd contribute my ignorance. I learned painting motorcycles which (other than tanks) are far easier to work with.
And finally, remember, a vehicle won't drive right till it has some kind of scratch or minor imperfection. (moral here - unless this is a museum piece expect a bit of wear and tear and then don't go ape when it happens)
I have found that most restoration paint jobs are probably considerably better than what the factory could do and that some car judging has gotten to the point that if you don't have sags in the paint on under curved surfaces where the factory did it, then you'll lose points! And that's because the quality of restorations are so fine that there is little else to judge a vehicle on.
It's also why I am very pragmatic about my paint jobs and don't do concours work. So after saying that, perhaps you can gauge that info against the rest of this post.
