An engine needs a few things to run, and diagnosing a problem starts with establishing whether or not those things are present.
Gasoline
Air
Spark
Compression
All of these things need to be there, and at the right time and quantity. Checking for gas is simple- - - -take the air cleaner off, and work the throttle linkage by hand while shining a flashlight down the top of the carburetor. You should see a stream of gas squirt into the intake as the gas pedal linkage is moved. If that does not happen, dribble about a teaspoon full of gas down the carburetor and try to start the engine. If it fires up and runs for a few seconds, you've found the problem. Find the source of the restriction between the gas tank and the carburetor. If you hold your hand over the carburetor throat and crank the engine, you should feel a considerable amount of suction, indicating the pistons are creating enough vacuum to draw air into the engine. That will also clear small pieces of dirt from the carburetor jets and allow fuel flow, at least occasionally.
If gas is present, check for spark. Pull the center wire out of the distributor cap and hold it about 1/2" from the engine block while somebody else cranks the engine with the ignition switch turned on. A spark should jump from the end of the wire to the block. No spark, take the distributor cap off, crank the engine, and see if the rotor is turning and the points are opening and closing. No rotor movement is a disaster- - - -mechanical failure to the camshaft, or the timing gears. If the rotor moves but the points don't open and close, adjust the points to provide a small gap when the shaft turns, about the thickness of a business card or a little more. Check for spark at the coil wire again.
If you've got gas and spark and still no start, you'll need to get back in touch with whomever did the restoration work. A compression test and a few other professional-level diagnostics are going to be necessary.
Good luck!
Jerry
