Ditto on the above advice!
I just removed my hood and found it best to "mildly" heat up the screws (small torch or electric solder iron), and while still very warm, soak them with Kroil (or penetrating oil). And let them cool. {this cooling lets the kroil get sucked into the threads}.
Repeat again for stubborn ones and the screws should back out OK.
Don't use too much heat as it effects the surrounding body panel!
They are relatively short screws and I found the nut/mounts weren't too bad for rust.
Get the exact right size "bowtie" screw bit to remove them (I got mine 30 years ago from Snap-On that included a separate impact driver). Clean out the dirt inside of the bowtie part of the screwslot so the bit can get real deep into the screwhead. A little 1/4 turn tap with a hand held impact driver that holds the bowtie bit will really help.
If ya got no impact driver, try mounting your bit onto a long extention socket shaft and grab/push/turn tightly counterclockwise with your hand while ya pop it on the end with a ballpeen hammer one hit at a time.
A human helper to hold the hood steady while ya whap the screws may be helpful, as it is better to remove/install hoods with a second set of hands. I bumped my head when my hood finally came free!
In the good old days, we would almost always use a small ballpeen hammer and a hand impact driver with the proper size "bowtie" bits on body parts. Seemed to always work best that way cause a lot of the "bowtie" screws/bolts have a tapered head that gets rusty stuck . The gentle crack with a hand impact tool seemed to break it loose just fine.
I don't use air tool impact wrenches with the bowtie bits cause they spin the screw way too fast and it usually only takes 1/4 to 1/2 turn to start them free.
PS..the hand held impact tool along with 2 sizes of "bowtie" bits is my favorite super Junkyard tool to help salvage old body parts.
[ 12-19-2001: Message edited by: lil' johnny ]
