If the points and coil are good. If the carburetor is good. And if the timing is close. Then set the valves a bit loose. The clacking won't hurt a thing. Then do a compression test. All cylinders should be close to the same, and(this will get me in trouble) above 80 psi. Then try to start. 10 seconds on the starter with 12 volts won't hurt. If it tries to start, then you can play with the timing. If you get nothing, then check the firing order. As Tcleaderman pointed out, 1,5,3,6,2,4 and that is clockwise looking at the top of the dizzy. A 235 even with a 216 flywheel with the points set to just open at the BB will either be right, or set on #6. Not too hard to fix. Clamp the bolt down on the "Octane Adjuster". Use the clamp screw on the vacuum advance clamp to change the timing. If all of that does not help, change the condenser and look at the wire to the points. I have found a cracked plastic insulator with the wire on one end and the points, condenser on the other end grounded to the housing. Sometimes a spark and some times not. No "O" ring in the groove on the dizzy. It won't help keep oil in the engine, and it won't help the dizzy ground to the block. Common to use the choke on new starts. Also common to forget to close the vacuum port to the wipers. They can be tested at another time. So cap that port on the manifold. You can test the vacuum advance while it is on the truck. Remove the line at the carb. And apply suction to the line. It should hold. If it leaks, then you have a bad line or a bad vacuum advance. It won't matter at idle speed, but needs to be addressed for break in. One thing at a time. Don't get in a hurry. Just do one thing at a time. test and go to the next thing. It will get better. It will.
