Define "extremely difficult", please. Are you using the flywheel to turn the engine, or some type of pry bar, etc.? It's not uncommon for new rings to make a crankshaft noticeably harder to turn as the drag of more cylinders accumulate. Have you checked the clearance of the rods as you assembled things? I'd suggest backing all the rod bolts off a turn or so after installing the final piston, and checking the oil clearance on each rod as you torque them up. There should be little or no difference in the effort required to turn the crankshaft as the rods are torqued. The ideal oil clearance should be .0015"-.002", with .003" as an absolute maximum. Good luck!
Jerry
I didn't due any clearance checks but did put new rod shims in. The rod moves freely on the crank with hand pressure side to side with the nuts torqued to spec. As far as force to turn it I have it in an engine stand with the back end holding it to the stand so I have been turning it with a pipe wrench on the balancer shoulder with a rag to try to protect it from getting chewed up, I'm 6'-4" 250 lbs and had to put my all into it. I think the oil issue or lack of on the rings may be the main issue. we will see once it sits over night. One question to add is that I assumed #1 piston is at the front or water pump end…correct?
I have positioned the piston rods with the cylinder number stamp facing the cam as per the book.
