Bob -
I'm glad that I checked out the latest action on Stovebolt today and that I saw your post. I don't hang out here as often as I used to. Spending too much time and money on my '55 MGTF-1500. (Denny warned me that lil Brit-cars are money-magnets!)
Links to parts in The Truck Shop catalog change each time the catalog is reprinted. See below for my revision of my original post with the new links to The Truck Shop, plus I included the part numbers so that the post will still be relavent when The Truck Shop changes their catalog. Send an email to me if you have questions.
Good luck with your windows.
- Lonnie
lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com
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ANSWERS TO YOUR QUESTIONS:1) Staples - The staples hold the inner felt wipe to the inner garnish. Insert the staples through the holes in the inner garnish, then poke them through the gooie rubber and felt of the inner felt wipe. The holes in the garnish were made by the factory when they attached the original staples to the felt wipe. Bend the legs of the staples over into the fuzzy felt. They should be hidden below the fuzzies. The factory may have originally inserted the staples from the fuzzy side, then into the steel of the inner garnish. Impossible to do now. I explained my process in one of my posts - linked below. And yes, many people use pop rivets or screws to secure the inner wipe ... but the rivets or screws often show and don't look right to me. Of course you could dab some flat black paint onto them to hide. Make sure that the screws or rivets don't scrape against the window glass.
2) Rubber outer wipes - I dunno. Wonder if the wipes are for another model truck? I belive that mine are rounded on the edge that slips into the guides in the door, instead of "T" shaped like yours. And mine are straight instead of curved. Maybe someone else can shead some light.
<CLICK> for pics of '51-'54 Outer Rubber Wipes from Classic Chevy Pic doesn't show the profile.
Denny Graham has some good photos of the staples and other window parts in his posts that are in some of the threads that I link below. BUT - you will probably need to click on "Quick Quote" below his posts to be able to read them. The new forum software hides some of his posts.
UDATED POST:There are five pieces to the window weather strip. I bought mine from the Truck Shop and I am pleased with the result.
> UPPER FELT RUN - fuzzy (part of kit shown in upper left corner of page - REVISED LINK TO PART #51-05705)
> INNER WIPES - fuzzy (part of kit and also shown in THIRD illustration, first column of page - REVISED LINK TO PART #51-05705 and PART #51-05708)
> OUTER WIPES - rubber (part of kit - REVISED LINK TO PART #51-05705)
> VENT WINDOW SEALS - rubber two pieces (shown in THIRD COLUMN, THIRD ROW of page - REVISED LINK TO PART #51-05611)
> ALSO ... RIVETS AND SETTING TOOL needed to reinstall the vent window frame and to attach the straight vent window seal to the division bar. (shown in FIRST COLUMN, FIRST ROW of page - REVISED LINK TO PART #51-05701)
> DIVISION BAR INSERTS - fuzzy (part of kit and also shown in SECOND COLUMN, FIRST ROW of page - REVISED LINK TO PART #51-05705 and PART #51-05712)
I believe that the
UPPER FELT RUN was originally held by clips that screwed into the opening in the door. The felt run was pressed into the clips. Clips were included in the kit from The Truck Shop, but I didn't know what they were, so I attached the run to the window with
Ace #6 X 1-5/8 Square Drive Trim Screws - full thread cut very short as needed and re-pointed. - (REVISED LINK TO ACE SCREWS)
> CLICK for more info> CLICK for discussion about the clipsThe
INNER WIPES were originally attached to the interior garnish with staples. Staples are included in the kit from The Truck Shop. I used the staples. Some 'Bolters use screws or pop rivets, or trim adhesive. The Truck Shop may be the only supplier that sells the inner wipes with the correct bend on the end (?)
> CLICK for more infoThe
OUTER WIPES slide into a track in the door on the outer side of the window. I lubed the track with dishwashing soap.
The
VENT WINDOW SEALS are in two pieces. The pivot rivet that holds the vent window to the frame must be drilled out and the window removed. Use rivets and a rivet setting tool to rivet the straight rubber piece to the division bar. I clamped a piece of aluminum plate into my vice and sat the plate into the channel of the division bar to back up the rivets as pounded them home. Pad the plate with a few layers of painters tape to avoid scratching the paint on the division bar. Do this before you install the division bar fuzzy insert. The curved rubber seal presses into place. A little dish washing liquid makes it easier. Finally reattach the vent window with a pivot rivet and setting tool. I used the same aluminum plate to back up the rivet.
> CLICK for more infoThe
DIVISION BAR INSERTS press into the division bar. A clip on the bottom of the bar secures the insert; friction does the rest.
> CLICK for more infoNOTE: The new forum software erases some posts that were written with word processing software then pasted into the post. You can read the blank post by clicking on the post, then click "Quick Quote". Click on "Preview Reply" at the bottom of the page to see the info in the blank post. I know that's it is screwy, but by doing so, you can read the blank posts by John Hill in this thread. There are some other blank posts in the links that showed. They can be read using the same process.MORE SOURCES OF INFO> CLICK for more sources of info on the entire process
