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On the home stretch!
Time to wrap this up by getting the last of the sub systems remounted on the engine. They may be little parts, but we still need to go slow and do things carefully.
Intake/exhaust manifold
- Use a metal straight edge to recheck the mating surface of the manifolds (where they mate to the head) for flatness. If not flat, you will need to have them machined flat or use two gaskets.
- Check functionality of exhaust manifold heat riser valve ("flapper") and install spring
- If manifolds have been separated for cleaning, refinishing, use a new separator gasket and reassemble, but do not tighten the bolts .... And you *did* thoroughly clean those parts after they came out of the blast cabinet, ja??
- Place the three intake rings in the head and place the manifold gaskets on the head, using the rings and the ends studs to hold in place.
- Put the manifold assembly in place and start the attachment bolts.
- Tighten the two short inner manifold bolts, adjacent to the heat riser to 25-30 ft-lbs. Torque the two outer short bolts and two long bolts to 15-20 ft-lbs.
- Tight the four bolts holding the two manifolds together. Be careful not to over tighten and break those bolts!
Bell housing and flywheel
- Install the bell housing 1st!
- Flywheel -- If you are upgrading to a 261 from a 235 or 216, and you are keeping the 6-volt electrical system (and starter), use the flywheel from your old engine. If you want the 12-volt (non-stomp start) starter, use the 261 flywheel and ring gear.
- Either way, check the ring gear -- if worn, heat only the ring with a torch until it drops off. While still very hot, reverse it and put it back on. As it cools, it will shrink back into a firm bond. Now you have the unworn side of the ring gear to mesh with the starter gear.
- Look for the little "BB" on the outer circumference of the front side of the flywheel. Shine it up or paint it white. You will thank yourself later ...
- Install the flywheel. The shiny, worn side (where the clutch engages) goes on facing to the rear/transmission (duh). Thanks to the dowels on the crankshaft, there is only one way to install the flywheel.
-
Torque the bolts to 55-65 ft-lbs.
Starter & Generator
- Install them.
- Torque the starter mounting bolts/nuts 20-30 ft-lbs
- Torque generator mounting bolts 15-20 ft-lbs
Distributor, coil, spark plugs and plug wires
- Rotate engine so that no. 1 cylinder is at Top Dead Center. Look for that shiny BB in the hole above the starter.
- Insert distributor into place so that the vacuum advance has room to move and so that the rotor will be sitting under the wire to the no. 1 cylinder
- Set the points gap to .019 (new) or .016 (used).
- Install the vacuum line (hard line connecting the bottom of the carburetor to the vacuum advance on the distributor
Fuel Pump
- Install (torque the two mounting bolts 10-15 ft-lbs) and plumb to temporary fuel tank – check for leaks.
- Install the pump to carburetor feed line.
Draft/Road tube
- Make sure it has been cleaned and install. This is a bad time to ask this, but ... you reinstalled the baffle plate right before you installed the crank shaft, ja??
Water pump and thermostat housing
- Install both, leaving out the thermostat for the break in
- Connect to temporary radiator & fill with coolant/antifreeze
- Torques: water pump and thermostat bolts are 25-35 ft-lbs.
Battery
- Run a positive cable to starter post, ground to bell housing
- Run jumper from battery/positive to coil with alligator clip (“Ignition switch”)
Roger Houston, we are "Go!" for Main Engine Start!
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