The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors 51 Chevy 3/4 ton vac wiper motor by Trico

Does anyone have info on the Trico vacuum wiper motor? I have 2 questions. How do I connect the arms to the motor? There are 2 nuts on the motor arm but they are odd in that they do not come off. It is clear to me that they need to connect there somehow. The other question is where do I hook the vacuum line from the wiper motor to? The carb or the fuel pump? Bonus question...are parts available for these? There must be a special tool needed as the heads of the screws are an oval shape. As always...thanks for the help! Bob

Evening Bob,
Special screw heads; Yep, I took a piece of rond stock and drilled a hole in it and then squeezed it oval shaped in the vice, that worked as the special screwdriver.
Parts avalable; Nope, 99% of them are owned by The Wiper Guy and they don't sell parts, but you can get it rebuilt by them for a little over $100. They kind of have a corner on the market but they do a very good job of rebuilding them.
I assume that you have a dual action fuel pump since you asked about running the line to it. Yes the line from the wiper motor goes to the vacuum side of the fuel pump. The other side goes to the side fitting on the manifold below the carburetor.
Now for the transmission link hook up the best thing is to show it in a picture. Try this: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/118509317 a few more pixs on this page: http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/ad_interior&page=2
The link and grommets are available at most of the vendors.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny,

Do you have any photos of how/where you ran the dual-action fuel-pump lines? Or, have they not yet been installed?

By the way, while perusing your photos above, I ended up viewing your excellent photos on the upholstery installation. Is the coir matting you show the original matting or replacement matting that you fabricated? If it is replacement matting, where did you find the matting material?

Thanks,

Denny, you have done it again...thank you! I checked some of the old postings and still had questions but you helped me bring this one to a conclusion. I have the same pump that you have pictured. It seems to work well as I hear a strong vac action as I move the arms although it does seem a bit stiff. The part I was missing is the wiper trans and spring arm retainer. I knew it had to be a c-clamp kind of deal to fit over those "nubs". Had I thoroughly checked the Classic Parts catalog I would have been able to figure it out....more fun talking with you though! I do have the upgraded fuel pump and will install the lines next weekend. Thanks, Bob

Tim...forgot to mention that I will take pictures when I am done running the lines and send them to you.
Also...the seat kits are available at Classic Parts, Chev's of the 40's etc. I have mine almost done. They look pretty good for my first try!

Bob,

Thanks for the offer to send the photos of the dual-action vacuum lines.

Do the seat kits you refer to have the coir matting plus the burlap material and the cotton matting? I have not seen a kit with the stiff coir (or coir-like) matting (like this material)..

TC
We use a cushioning material @ work similiar to coir matting. We call it horsehair and is purchased here.
Dan

Thanks, Dan.

Is the product you are referring to Wollastic - It's Fantastic!

It’s the original seat mat Tim. It was in amazingly good condition, not coming apart at all. The cover was torn under the driver’s derriere and the cotton was matted down but the matt was almost perfect. This was the only seat that I’ve see so far that wasn’t a home for the mice. It was kept in the fire barn from when they bought it in 1950. I’ve looked a bunch and haven’t been able to find a modern day source. UNTILL NOW!!!! That link i.e., http://www.perfectproductsonline.com/rubberizedhair.html that you found Tim is exactly what was used. I’m really surprised that they still make it. The original one had the wrapper sewn onto the seat cushion. The kits from the vendors is not supplied with this material. I've ordered some so I can compaire it to the original stuff. Looks like it's blue instead of the natural color of the original stuff.

I’ve not installed the dual pump on my truck, will do that after the short block rebuild. But I did install one on my buddy’s truck last fall and I’ve got a few poor pictures I took with my cell phone. I’ll see if I can get them posted. Well, not till tomorrow, can’t get them off my phone to my computer, I did text them to my daughter who can’t donload them to here comp……………….oh forget it, I’ll get them posted tomorrow.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

These aren’t real high quality pictures, I had to take them with my telephone, but I think they show most of the routing. The one to the manifold angles down and back at about a 45° angle and goes around the front of the horn bracket then it levels off and goes straight back to a 90° fitting in the manifold where the old vacuum takeoff originally was.
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/121027791/original
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/121027822
http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/image/121027822
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny,

Thanks for the information about a coir mat being used and the confirmation that the material that I found will work. My butt will forever thank you. I'll use the matting material in the two trucks I am restoring, a '54 Chevy pickup with Unison seat, and a 54/55 GMC COE with two single-person bottom cushions.

Regarding the dual-action fuel pump's vacuum-line plumbing, did you find original documentation regarding the plumbing (I know you are a stickler for detail)? The Factory Assembly Manual does not seem to have a good drawing for 3100s.

As always, Thanks,

No I didn't Tim. The repop fuel pumps inlet and outlet are in different locations than on the original dual pumps so it wouldn't be the same on that side. Going to the motor and manifold I just ran them where they looked the best with out a whole bunch of fancy bending. It seemed logical that they would have run the line to the motor parallel to the vacuum advance line and with out bending all around the manifold and behind the horn seems crazy. So I simply angled it down as I said where it came out of the bundle crossing behind the filler neck. it looks pretty good. Later this week I have to run into the city and I'll stop by and take a couple more pictures showing the line going to the manifold.
Denny G

Denny, these are great photos...thank you. I have a dumb question for you if you have the time. On the original wiper pump set up the vac line went from the intake manifold to the wiper motor. I understand that the new fuel pump has one line to the wiper pump and the other to the manifold. the question is what is the line from the fuel pump to the maniflod doing? What is it's function etc?
Also...mice had made a nice home of my seat foam so I bought the replacement stuff. It is really just a pressed fiber matt. I wish I had known about the other product before i had done the job! Thanks, Bob

I’ll be real honest with you Bob, I haven’t driven a truck with the dual pump or had one apart to see what sort of circuit it has in it or had a gauge on one either.
My guess is that the vacuum from the pump is pulsating and at low throttle settings you would see that low frequency pulsation without the assistance of the manifold vacuum. By plumbing the two vacuum supplies together internally that would smooth out the vacuum signal at low speeds. At high throttle settings the manifold vacuum would be low but the pulses from the pump would be at a higher frequency and you wouldn’t notice it.
That’s just a guess mind you; maybe someone more knowledgeable about the system will have a better answer.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Ok, I finally got over to my buddy’s house to take some decent pictures of the dual fuel pump vacuum line routing that I used on his truck. I posted about a half dozen pictures that clearly show the lines. http://www.pbase.com/dennygraham/larrys_1950_3100&page=2
I don’t know it this looks like the layout that the original ones had but it seemed like the only logical route for them.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

It's been my understanding that the vacuum from the pump was to aid the wiper motor function when you stepped on the gas and manifold vacuum dropped. That way, you would still have wipers working.
I can remember, hate to admit it though, driving some cars that whenever you'd step on the gas the wipers would slow up, almost stop,until you eased up on the gas.
Kind of a built in speed governor for rainy conditions when you don't need to drive fast.
Ya, I'm kidding about the governor part.

Dan

Unless I miss stated what I posted the other day, that's exactly what I said Dan. Or maybe it was the way I said it, I taint no Hemmingway for sure.
DG

Hi Denny,
I was checking out your pics and I notice you had primered and painted your steering wheel. It looks great.
A few questions:
Was it an oriiginal (nos) wheel or was it a modern day reproduction? Do you have the paint code / information for the primer and color coat?
Thanks!

Phil Stewart
'53 6400 2 ton truck

Hey guys - I hate to hijack a 3 year old thread but I'm curious about this "Wollastic" stuff (it sounds Fantastic). Was just starting to recover my own seats with the kit from Carter, but came to the conclusion that just the standard cover and padding don't look like they'll cut it.

It looks like the Wollastic comes in a variety of thicknesses and firmness options, I'm 185 lbs, and growing it seems, what would you guys recommend for a thickness and firmness for Wollastic? Was it fairly easy to install?

Thanks - Bruce

It has to be special ordered to resist temps around 150F.

That leads me to believe that normal product may not last long in a hot car in the summer (110F+ are normal inside).

I just found a local upholster and got burlap and cotton batting. $50 was enough to cover seat and back (approx 8-10 yards)