The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1946 2 Ton 216 Oil Feed Tube For Rocker Arms

I noticed oil did not appear to be lubricating the rocker arms.

Should I not see oil dripping off of the rocker assembly?

I unscrewed the feed tube brass fitting then the rocker assembly and checked the curved oil tube and it was clear. I cranked the engine and did not see any oil come out.

The brass fitting hex is a bit chewed and I plan on putting on a new one. Also the upper end of the oil feed tube is a bit kinked and crooked enough to no be able to get a machinist pick very far to check if the oil tube is bent enough to be blocked.

It would appear that a previous mechanic was to lazy to take off 4 bolts and 2 threaded studs to just lift the rocker arm shaft off to avoid damage.

I noticed a push rod is very loose. Enough to make me think it is bent.

Any way as I get back on the oil feed tube is where is the other end connected to?

When I remove the valve lifter cover on the side of the engine will the other end of the oil line be visible and will there be a fitting allowing removal of the oil line?

If the 46 216 is like the 49, the rocker oil line travels through the block so the fix will be alittle more detailed to replace that line.
The oil line connects to the oil distribution block on the drivers side, travels through the water jacket in the block and exits in the pushrod gallery on the passenger side. It then bends it's way arund a couple pushrods then up through the head and connects to the rocker shaft. It's a long one piece line with several fittings to connect to and seal at the block and connect at both ends. It's a one use part and usually must be replaced if it fails along it's circuit.
I had to replace the one on my 49 and it took around 3 hrs total. It's sold as a kit by most of the on-line parts houses.

What happened to mine was a pushrod rubbed a hole in the line and it eventually broke at that point. I had the same symptoms as you describe.

Once you pull the side plate you'll see the line and how it connects on that side. Unfortunately the drivers side is behind the exhaust which added to time to the task.

If the line isn't broke or have a hole worn through it you should be able to disconnect it at the drivers side and blow air through it. The oil comes from the oil distribution block.

Good luck
Dave

I took off the side cover and it appears that I will have to take off the oil pan to access the bottom end.

Check Dave's post again- - - -the line DOES NOT enter the crankcase, so pulling the oil pan will accomplish nothing. The line travels through the water jacket on a downward angle and exits the block on the driver's side. It will be necessary to cut the line to remove it, and install a new line and fittings to prevent coolant leakage into the oil. The fittings on both sides of the block are one-time use items. Several of the parts vendors who advertise on this site sell a kit with all the bits and pieces necessary to change the line properly.
Jerry

32vld may be correct. I have seen several 216's that had the line cross through the crankcase, not the water jacket as usual. One was a 1947.

I love being told I may be right. Though I found those photos and drawing to be helpful. So tomorrow I will look at the truck and compare to those helpful pictures. And I did check some of those mentioned businesses and they do sell oil feed line kits for that year truck.

I also think that the oil screen is not clogged because oil flows into the oil filter housing. What do you men think?

I have no knowledge of this topic; however, here is some documentation:

42-47 - through the water jacket
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1942_47/4247csm621.htm

1947 - through the water jacket
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1947truck/47ctsm0633.htm

1948-50 - through the water jacket
1951-?? (1951-1953, maybe) - through the crankcase
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0638.htm

My 51 216 is thru the water jacket as well. I just ordered a replacement. What is this "white lead" to seal the threads? I was just going to use std pipe dope?

I just used Teflon tape.

"white Lead" is lead carbonate powder in a linseed oil suspension. It was once used as paint pigment, before the tree huggers got their knickers in a twist about the alleged catastrophies caused by lead in any form. It's a naturally-occurring mineral- - -get over it! White lead is still the best lubricant for the dead center on a lathe, and I've got a lifetime supply pigeonholed away for my machining projects.

Any good brush-on sealer will work to seal the fittings where they thread into the block- - - -I prefer Permatex Super 300.
Jerry

In a world where they call KFC, Fried Chicken, go with the Permatex Super 300. 'White Lead' LOL!

I enjoyed the photos posted and my 46 has the oil distribution plate and oil lines on the left side of the engine.

Though on the right side of the engine there is no rocker arm oil feed line coming through the engine block.

My engine has the oil feed line come up through a hole in between the valve lifters and there was no way to see were that oil line went to so no way to disconnect it to clean it out.

So I did the next best thing. I got a length of mechanics wire and reamed it out then I was able to use a brass welding rod to go deeper into the oil line. Then used some varnish covered bare copper wire to go deeper still.

Then with a new brass oil line fitting to connect the oil line to the rocker arm, for the hex on the old fitting was in very bad shape, I put the rocker arm assembly back on the engine.

We fired up the engine and the rockers were getting plenty of the oil now.

So we were both right! How often does that happen

Thanks to all for increasing my knowledge by sharing yours.