The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Carter YF carbs produced for Chevrolet

I did an abbreviated list of these once before. This is a complete list taken one by one from the Carter master prints, and includes experimental carbs with numbers assigned, but no production.

THERE ARE DIFFERENCES IN THESE CARBURETORS! THAT IS WHY THERE ARE DIFFERENT NUMBERS!

Some of you have already experienced some of these differences such as the "ported" vs "manifold" vacuum take-off for the distibutor.

Use the list as is, and I would guess few issues. However, changing from one application to another may lead to issues.

At any rate, here is the list:

Jon.

Carter YF carburetors produced for use on Chevrolet

756s – 216 engine aftermarket 1937~1952
787s – 216 engine aftermarket 1937~1952
788s – 235 engine aftermarket 1950~1952
789s – 235 engine aftermarket 1950~1952
890s – 235 engine aftermarket manual choke (number assigned, no production)
891s – 235 engine aftermarket auto choke (number assigned, no production)
964s – 216 engine aftermarket manual choke 1937~1952
965s – 216 engine aftermarket auto choke 1937~1952
966s – 235 engine aftermarket auto choke 1950~1952
967s – 235 engine aftermarket manual choke 1950~1952
2008s – 216 engine aftermarket 1937~1952
2046s – 206 engine aftermarket 1932~1936
2100s – 235 engine aftermarket manual choke 1953~1956
2101s – 235 engine aftermarket auto choke 1953~1956
2104s – 261 engine aftermarket (number assigned, no production)
3055s – aftermarket (number assigned, no production)
3211s – 235 engine aftermarket 1957~1962
3379s – 153 engine original equipment manual trans 1962~1966
3402s – 153 engine original equipment auto trans 1962~1966
3711s – 194 engine aftermarket 1962
3760s – 230 engine (number assigned, no production)
3770s – 230 engine (taxi) original equipment auto transmission 1964~1965
3771s – 230 engine (taxi) original equipment manual trans 1964~1965
3772s – 194 engine auto transmission (number assigned, no production) 1964
3773s – 194 engine manual trans (number assigned, no production) 1964
3821s – 194 engine (van) original equipment 1964
3946s – 194 engine aftermarket 1964~1965
3946s – 230 engine aftermarket 1964~1965
3975s – 230 engine (van) original equipment manual trans 1965
3976s – 230 engine (van) original equipment auto trans 1965
4043s – 194 engine (van) original equipment manual trans 1966
4043s – 230 engine (van) original equipment manual trans 1966
4044s – 194 engine (van) original equipment auto trans 1966
4044s – 230 engine (van) original equipment auto trans 1966
4048s – 230 engine (van) aftermarket experimental 1963~1966
4072s – 194 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4072s – 230 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4073s – 194 engine original equipment manual trans CALIF smog 1966
4073s – 230 engine original equipment manual trans CALIF smog 1966
4080s – 194 engine original equipment (pass) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4080s – 230 engine original equipment (pass) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4080s – 250 engine original equipment (pass) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4085s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1966
4085s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1966
4086s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4086s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1966
4145s – 194 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans 1965~1966
4145s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans 1965~1966
4202s – 250 engine (taxi) original equipment auto trans 1966
4203s – 250 engine (taxi) original equipment manual trans 1966
4278s – (export to India)
4339s – 194 engine aftermarket 1963~1967
4339s – 230 engine aftermarket 1963~1967
4339s – 250 engine aftermarket 1963~1967
4367s – 230 engine original equipment manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4367s – 250 engine original equipment manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4368s – 194 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4368s – 230 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4368s – 250 engine original equipment auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4369s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4369s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4370s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4370s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4371s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4371s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4371s – 292 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4372s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4373s – 153 engine aftermarket manual trans 1963~1967
4374s – 153 engine aftermarket auto trans 1963~1967
4375s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans 1967
4375s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans 1967
4376s – 230 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans 1967
4376s – 250 engine original equipment (truck) auto trans 1967
4377s – 250 engine original equipment (taxi) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4378s – 250 engine original equipment (taxi) auto trans CALIF smog 1967
4387s – 194 engine original equipment (truck) manual trans CALIF smog 1967
4480s – 230 engine aftermarket (all Federal) 1963~1967
4480s – 250 engine aftermarket (all Federal) 1963~1967
4492s – 194 engine aftermarket 1962
6213s – number assigned no production

Those of you who have been on this forum for a long time know I have been suggesting the use of the YF for a long time.

There are currently THREE major issues with the YF:

(1) trying to use the wrong YF

(2) trying to use parts house rebuilding kits which have the large orifice "Ford" fuel valve.

(3) "deathanol" fuel. With the currently available diaphragms, once the diaphragm material has been submersed in the ethanol laced fuel AND THEN ALLOWED TO DRY, the diaphragm material will over time turn hard, and then crack. This leads to premature diaphragm failure on vehicles which are driven rarely. The solution seems to be dry the vehicle daily, which tends to prevent the fuel from evaporating from the bowl. If the diaphragm stays wet, its life is prolonged (by years!).

So why don't we change material??? I have posed that question to several manufacturers. Occasionally, I get the "cop-out" that "neopreme is approved by the government as usable with ethanol" (this is a true statement). However, the more caring manufacturers have at least helped explain the problem. There is no neopreme (I don't care what color...black, red, pink, blue, dark blue, etc., etc., etc.) that is compatible with ethanol. A material that IS COMPATIBLE is Buna N with fiberglass reinforcement (a material that is not readily available in the correct thickness, and would require different "steam dies" to form). Unfortunately, there is insufficient demand to invest in the superior product.

So if you use the YF (and I still think it is a great carburetor) make arrangements to drive your vehicle more often. (And be careful with issues 1 and 2 also).

Jon.

Hy carbking, thank you very much for posting the list, and explaining what can go wrong.

Great material to tuck away. Thanks Jon.
Is it possible for us guys that have to park our stuff in the winter to drain the "deathanol" from our carburetors and then refill the carburetor with something to keep things fresh? I realize that it would take a bit of effort in the fall and spring but might really help things in the long run. I presently put stable in my stuff when I park them in the fall. Sorry this got of the current topic here. Don

Don - interesting question. I don't know. Perhaps some might try it. I have tested the Stabil to no benefit other than transferring dollars from my pocket to that of the seller.

If I were going to try keeping the diaphragm moist, I think I would try either a light machine oil (such as Singer sewing machine oil) or ATF.

Jon.

Thanks,Jon

I printed the info and will file it in my Truck folder,I'll start looking for a different YF this summer at the swap meets I need a YF with port vac.

Jon ,is there any way to tell from the year the carb is for ,if it has port or manifold vac ,Longbox looked at a 2100s that He has and it's manifold vac,wrong for that year 235,53 to 56 should have port vac to operate the distributor ,timming .

Thanks again,Pete

What does a carter YF carb look like as I took a carb off the 51 3/4 ton we had on the michigan property that definately is not a W-1 or a Rochester,all I know is it must of came off a 235 as dad had to do some grinding on the mounting holes to make it fit the 216 in the 51 and it seemed to be a beter carb then the Rochester thats on the 57 I have in my 37 and want to find a kit for it.

Jon, do you sell these carbs? and could anyone tell me what these "United" carbs are I found at the auto store? I asked earlier in the weekend and no one even responded. I figured out how to put a clickable url address in if that helps? I really would like someone to see if they know - it looks like the carb and it says carter YF but not what carter number it would be comparable to?


http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...451097-P_26_R%7CGRPCARBAMS_1261785240___

United is just the name of the rebuilding company, the carb itself is a Carter. I would suggest using caution with a reman carb, make sure it is the correct one for the application. I got burned on that once, someone at the rebuilder stuck a ford spec carb in a Chevrolet box.

Pete, I don't have a lot of Rochester B's to look at, but a 7003526 (1952 - 235) has manifold vacuum. I have a few more B's in storage (have been quite unsuccessful in my B giveaway campaign), but cannot easily get to them.

I looked at a couple of YF's (both 216 and 235) and they have manifold vacuum.

Are you absolutely sure the 235 is supposed to have ported vacuum?

All of the W-1's (1949 and earlier) I checked did have ported vacuum.

Bill is correct about United; they were an independant rebuilder out of Chicago.

Oh, and one other thing: Unlike the Rochester, MOST (not all) Carter YF's have the part number STAMPED (NOT RAISED) on the center section of the unit.

Jon.

sorry for re-asking this jon, but do you sell these carbs? I know it might be a stupid question, but I just am not on this site long enough to really know what all you do.

Paul - this forum, like most, has the capability for members to display a "public profile". On this forum, as most; a member's public profile may be accessed by clicking on the member's user name. Many questions concerning a member may be answered by accessing the member's profile.

Jon.

Jon -- This *is* good info -- can we turn this into a Tech Tip?

Thanks,
John

Jon, I clicked on that your username. I'll give you a call tomorrow. I'm not sure why you didn't just say yes, but maybe that's against the rules? For whatever reason, I'll call you later.

Paul

OK im still new in the witch carbs better gig. But my B has been a great carb since I rebiult it. No issues. If I switch to a carter YF will I notice any differance. My B starts on the first turn every time. Thanks guys.

Jon, I have 3 "Bs" and they all have port vac and if you read the shop manual under tune up they never say to remove the vac line from the dist. when you time it.I do, but never have seen any vac at the line when running the B or the W1 at idle, I put a W1 on my 216, I think that the W1 was a production carb built and installed at the factory and thats why it has port vac.I just put that YF4480s and when I had it installed I had full vac advance at idle.It made a difference on my engine at idle it just did not run right .

I was looking at the YF that I have and it would not be that hard to drill a hole on an angle to convert it to port vac.and plug the old hole ,I could always switch it back .I hate to do that to a stock carb and I'm no carb expert ,I just really hate the "B" thats on her now.I had such good performance from the W1 on my 216 I was hopping to get the same from the YF. Or just look for a port vac YF do You know if the 966s or the 967s has port vac?


Again,Thanks,Jon


Pete

Carbking (or anyone who knows)
Is there a solution to problem #2 for those of us who run a Carter YF. (Im running 787s)
Is there a source for rebuild kits without the ford parts?

Thank you

Dads50,

I would think that Jon can suppy that part in his kit.

The kit I got for mine had the right valve in it for a 4480s anyway.

Pete

Went to Advance auto parts today and they told me that they no longer carry that carb so I called United carb ,right by my house, and they want 190.00 plus a core.If I had a core I would just rebuild it myself so now the search will go on.


Pete

Pete52-

There are a number of cores and rebuilt ones on Ebay at this time. You could try that route, if you want to deal with the hassles of ebay.

I usually find the numbers stamped on the rib/fin directly above the throttle linkage.

Thanks for the precious info CarbKing.

I would, but I would like to know ahead of time if it has port vac.I was hopping that if I ordered one from advance I could look at it and make sure frist.

Jon,do you see any problem with drilling out a new hole on an angle upward same size as the old one and plugging the old one to convert my 4480s to port vac.

Pete

When the same carter number carb is used on a 230 or a 250 or a 292 such as the 4371s.... are there any differences in the jetting to match the larger displacement of the engine......????

Would a 4376s run just as well for a 235 or a 261....? how complicated would it be to verify and/or change the jetting..?

When a carb shop does a flow test on a rebuilt carb do they actually adjust the fuel flow that various jets would provide or just the overall mixture so that it will be a turnkey start up when you get it back..?

One more and last ??? on all these various Carters on the bottom is a cast iron throttle body...some of various sizes. For example some have a large 2 15/16 bolt pattern and the larger throat of the 261 at 1 11/16. All these bottom assembly seem to be identical and held in place with the same bolt pattern..... are they interchangeable....??

I have a rebuilt 4376s BUT it has a small bolt pattern/small throat....and I have a spare larger base.... can I swap them or am I looking for a headache....

Thanks for your time I value you knowledge and experience.

Bob C.

Changing body components on ANY two different numbered carburetors is asking for a headache, as well as an engine that doesn't run properly.

The term "flow test" is BADLY misused. A flow test is a test to determine the amount of CFM which a carburetor can flow. This is done on a "flow bench" using a non-volatile liquid (safety reasons). Generally, what a shop means for "flow test" is that they ran the carburetor on a test engine. With todays fuel, this will virtually guarantee the owner will have problems with the unit, as the modern fuel will evaporate, leaving a sticky residue. Of course, if the customer picks up the carb at the shop, and IMMEDIATELY installs it, not allowing the fuel to dry, the above does not apply.

Universal units which fit different size engines are calibrated richer than standard. I personally try to avoid these; or if I must use them, recalibrate them myself ON THE ENGINE.

Jon.

A wee bit of automobile history on the above "one size fits all" carburetor. These were an evolution as a result of the "cheap" customer.

If you look at "service" carburetors beginning in the 1930's, you find that, for the most part, a service carb was one for a later manufacturer/engine/transmission combination that had been slightly recalibrated for better performance than the original. This trend basically continued through the 1940's~early 1950's.

The first evolution of "service" carbs starting showing the carb for the auto transmission vehicles as also servicing the standard transmission vehicles (but not the reverse). This could be done, as the carbs for auto trans are calibrated richer to compensate for the fluid coupling losses in the torque converter. A vehicle with standard transmission would simply lose maybe 5~8 percent in fuel economy.

The second evolution is the multiple engine size as referenced above. This became "necessary" because of the proliferation of inventory. The parts house could not stock everything, and therefore the better products would be special order with shipping costs. By offering a product which will work (although less well than it could) on many products, the parts house could stock more coverage with less product, and because of the "economy of scale" the multi-displacement units could be sold cheaper.

Jon.

The above post can more easily be understood by looking at the contents of the carburetor rebuilding kits.

In the 1930's up through the late 40's~early 50's Carter (other companies had similar offering) rebuilding kits contained the correct gaskets, the correct fuel valve, the correct pump, the idle screw(s), the main jet(s), the metering rod(s), check valves, vacuum piston spring, and throttle plate screws.

CARTER OFFERED THREE DIFFERENT KITS FOR EACH CARBURETOR!!! That statement is correct. Carter offered the "standard" kit (sea level to 4000 feet), a "one size lean" kit (4000~6000 feet), and a "two size lean" kit (above 6000 feet).

In the mid-1950's, the "900 Zip" series of kit was introduced. This kit had the correct gaskets, the correct "base" pump (without the correct delayer spring), and the correct fuel valve.

The 900 Zip series was superceded by the 902 Zip series which contained the correct fuel valve, the correct base pump, and every possible gasket which could be used with this combination of fuel valve and pump; the customer then had to pick the proper gasket.

During this same period, many of the cheaper aftermarket kits went even further, producing often only one orifice fuel valve of a type. Example, Carter specified a spring loaded fuel valve for many of their carburetors that might see off-road use or marine use. Few of the aftermarket manufacturers make this more expensive fuel valve.

All of this is quite easily proved. And in the case of the carburetors, look at the 964, 965, 966, 967 series: one service carburetor per engine size AND transmission type.

The more specific the fit, the better the results. (my opinion, others may differ).

Jon.

I agree and thanks for all that info.

I'm going to fill my 4480s with some Marval M.O. and keep it for a future project,I got a 53 GMC 3/4 ton with 228 next but who knows what might come up.

Jon do you know if all 2100s carters have manifold vac.?

Pete

Merci Jon

You have covered more in these postings than most full semestre night courses.

Appreciate your help.

Bob C.

To solve the ethanol rubber-rot on a YF non-daily-driver; Can ethanol be removed from gasoline using water and a separator? Or does that create other problems with the gasoline?

Not sure about everones areas, but there are several stations around me that sell non-ethanol fuel. I'll be hunting for these stations as soon as I get my carb back in my truck... Wasn't aware there was a big issue. Thanks for the heads up. This site is great!

On edit:

http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=LA

Is it a myth or....???

Seems that most local fuel pump (Canada anyways) shows up to 10% ethanol on regular and mid range fuel but NOT for hi test/hi octane...?

Am I correct...?

Bob

In Nebraska (where we have a lot of ethanol) every pump has regular (no ethanol: 87), 10% blend (89) and premium (no ethanol: 91 or 92%). then some stations carry E-85 (85% ethanol). Right now they are thinking about passing a bill in our unicameral that will allow stations to NOT post whether or not the fuel you are pumping has ethanol because they hope more people will buy it. I guess you have to look at the octane.

TTT

Can a moderator repair the first post in this thread?

I can get the info using quick quote but others may benifet from carbkings info.

Respectfully

It may not be that simple. Those who blend the 10% ethanol may very well be adding other chemicals to the mix to make the ethanol work.

I joined stovebolt to try and get in touch with carbking I tried to private message him but it wont let me. Looking for a carter yf 4145s carb. If someone dont mind letting him know I would appreciate it

I see that Oldschoolshovel has resurrected this old thread, so will take the opportunity to update some answers:

(1) Oldschoolshovel - PM's require the poster to have a certain number of posts; but my website is listed in my signature block.

(2) Winter storage and diaphragms: I have found NO solution to this other than starting the engine on a weekly basis. I personally purchased a small engine where the manufactured required Stabil or the warranty would be invalid. Did the Stabil per directions, and next spring carburetor was completely clogged, and a clogged carburetor was not covered under warranty! Did some other small engines, all had the same result. Will not try this expensive mistake again. Those who start their vehicle weekly, allow the engine to warm, and move the vehicle twice the diameter of one tire, will have significantly fewer repairs the next spring!

(3) Not covered in the thread, but some issues some folks are having are the result of trying to use an incorrect flange (mounting) gasket. The Carter carburetors DO NOT LIKE THE ROCHESTER MOUNTING GASKET, USE THE ONE SPECIFIED BY CARTER! Ports in the Carter do not align with the holes/slots in the Rochester gasket. No, I do not know why; and I have outlived my friends (now missed!) that were engineers at Carter, so cannot ask them. Any "rebuilt" carburetor "should" come with the correct mounting gasket. If one orders a kit, and rebuilds the carb oneself, then the rebuilding kit should have the correct mounting gasket. One may use the spacer if one wishes, but the Carter specified mounting gasket should always be placed directly under the carburetor.

(4) Swapping parts (i.e. throttle bodies to change mounting spacing) from one carb to another is a bad idea, regardless of the brand of carburetor, unless both carburetors have exactly the same identification number!

Jon.



EDIT/added by Woogeroo:

Order/Contact Information for The Carburetor Shop