The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Frame Paint

I was wondering what may be the best frame paint to use on a clean frame. I have been seeing two paints come up: POR-15 and Eastwood. Any thoughts or recommendations on these or others are appreciated.

I am having my frame sand blasted and thought about using POR-15 and the Chevy blue for the engine, two coats.

Thanks in advance for everyone’s help. If additional information is needed please feel free to ask.

Epoxy primer and automotive paint such as acrylic urathane.

First off I am a fan of both products.

I used Eastwood's Epoxy Primer then their Extreme Chassis Black. I am very happy with the epoxy as it is tough as nails. The Extreme Chassis Black is good, but does scratch and can chip just like any other paint. But the good thing is you can just sand it a little and spray more on with a rattle can.

I knew of POR15 at the time I was doing my frame but chose not to use it because I wanted to spray my frame, not brush it. Spraying POR15 requires a fresh air respirator and I do not have one. I have since used POR15 on the inside of my fenders and under my cab and I can say that stuff is extremely tough!

The Pros, that stuff is tough, I have had to sand it off to do some welding and it is hard to remove even with a wire wheel! Hit it with a hammer, nothing happens.

The Cons, it is harder to deal with since you have a certain "window" of time for topcoating. If you miss this window, you have to use their etch primer. The toxicity is a negative as well, and it needs to be topcoated with a UV resistant paint (maybe not for a frame) but I would do it anyway. And finally, it is expensive!!

If I had to do it over again, I would still go with the Epoxy Primer and Chassis Black. Just simpler, less toxic, and easy to fix scratches.

Heck, have it powdercoated if you are real picky.

I thought about both Eastwoods and POR15 for my frame, but if your frame is clean with no rust after sandblasting, then just buy some tractor paint and brush it on. It will get the job done, and is only $10 for a gallon. More than enough. That is what I'm planning for my frame. I have friends that have used POR15, and said that it only works good on parts that are rusted.

I used XO Rust on one of mine, which is the Tru Value Hardware equivalent of Rustoleum. Bought a gallon of primer, and a gallon of Semi-gloss black, and brushed them both on. Worked great!

Thanks everyone for your input and comments.
Having to remove the POR15 for work that may need to be done is something I am going to have to look at because I am placing a tank in the frame and who knows what else.

Here is my truck blog. I just got it set up if anyone is interested in a few pics:

http://52stove.blogspot.com/

Thanks for the pictures. Nice truck.

My body man advised against the POR15, he preferred automotive paint. I am quite happy with it.

I should also mention that filling the pits in the frame makes a gigantic appearance improvement and really separates the men from the boys.

I'd agree with you if we were all planning on showing our trucks instead of driving them. At some point I realized that all the articles we read in Classic Truck, Street Rodder, etc. are usually the "ideal" way to do things. This is assuming you have - if not a LOT of money, then at least a regular amount to put into your truck every month. Plus, many of the articles in these publications assume you don't use the truck as a daily driver and/or can afford to have your truck torn down for weeks or months at a time. That's why they almost universally show the truck taken down to the frame, blasted, powder coated or at least epoxy coated.

My '46 is a nice truck but I never intend to show it. So my plan is to remove the bed, power wash, sand or wire wheel and paint it with Rustoleum semi gloss black. Then, I'll do the frame under the cab, later the front end. I would love to have the time, space and money to do a rotisserie restoration, but realistically if I waited until then I'd never do it. The way I'm planning on doing it will still be the nicest truck I've ever owned! I wonder how many of you guys feel the same way?

P.S. I like Eastwood products but their prices are so high for products they mostly buy from others and private label. I'll stick with time-proven products like Rustoleum. I'd use POR-15 if I were doing something I can't remove all the rust from before painting though.

Well put Dan. Although my truck is not really my daily driver, I treat it as though it is. I will do the best I can with what I have to work with.

Dan,
I couldn't agree with you more. Old Chevy trucks have survived because they were simple and anyone could make them run for just a little bit of money. Other brands might be more complex, sophisticated, and even more reliable, but their parts are ALWAYS more expensive and harder to repair and find replacements for. It really upsets me when guys spend a week's pay for items that could simply be disassembled, cleaned, and re-adjusted to perform as good as new, for zero dollars. I respect the knowledge and character of a man that can see through the sales manure to the truth. Jim

Thanks Tmater and Chet,
My plan is as Chet says to take one part off at a time, thoroughly disassemble, clean, restore, polish and reinstall wherever possible.

I'm currently having it rewired - not because I couldn't do it, but because I wanted to make reliability and safety the first orders of business and I couldn't afford the space to have it non-running for the month or more it would probably have taken me to do it. It's using up the last bit of my seed money to buy the truck but that's ok.

I bought a bunch of smaller parts when I got it - windlaces, window channel, cowl vent seals, stock mirrors and tail lights, etc to put on it at the same time. As soon as all that stuff goes on it, it will be a LOT quieter and more fun to drive. Then I'll start the part-at-a-time approach...while still using it for weekend Home Deopt runs and taking my big dog out for a ride. I plan on posting periodic small item threads. I hope no one will be bored by the NON frame off restoration approach that we all love to see/read? If nothing else, it will give ideas on how to do things slowly and CHEAPLY! Ha ha!

I agree with the piece at a time approach. I tore my '54 GMC to the bare frame 6 years ago and it is still in pieces. I bought my '56 Chevy 4 years ago and have replaced the harness, brakes, rearend, engine, seat, headliner and more a piece at a time. Never was it down for more than 2 weeks. I've put over 12,000 miles on it while doing it.

I just bought a '54 GMC burb and I'm going the piece at a time route on it. I just got the new power discs in it and waiting on new wheels to put it on the road, faded paint, shabby upholstery and all.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but he asked for "best" not "cheapest".
My truck is also a driver, but I do not see that as a reason to do a substandard job on it. I do obviously have money constraints so I also used Rustoleum(in quarts). However for a tub of filler, some abrasive paper, and 30 hrs work I can have a smooth shiny frame, which is definitely worth it. And now I'm driving it around with a restored frame and rusty body as I am flat out of cash.

I have looked closely at those that have been made "show ready" and instead of trailer, have been driven for a few years. You look at the engine, frame, etc. it's all rusted and pitted from road wear. It would make me sick to have spent that much $$ to make it a perfect representation and then to look under the hood and see a clot of mud stuck inside the coil spring.
IMHO if you're going to drive it don't doll it up too much.

I wish I had the frame of mind to restore one item at a time. But I am afraid that something is wrong inside my brain. I would never be happy knowing that the classic truck I am driving has dirt and grime, peeling paint and rust under the cab while the front passenger side fender is brand new. I decided to set a goal of 5 years to finish my truck so the day I register and license it, it is pretty much done (if a truck could ever be done). This decision was based on the fact that I needed to know that every nut and bolt was inspected, and a decision was made if it could be saved or replaced, and when it went back in it was clean and free of rust. Even as I restore my truck I wake up in the middle of the night feeling that maybe I missed something, or I messed up a step, and that rust will pop up like the grim reaper coming to claim a soul. I obsess, I retrace the steps in my mind, then doubt my decisions... I am soooo screwed up.

Isn't this hobby fun!? Oh, crap, I'm late for my shrink session...

So where are the pictures of this "gem". Are you going to do all that work without any evidence of the work done once finished?

My frame is coated in 60 year old rust. However in the past on a few projects I used POR15, then sprayed 2-part PPG epoxy primer over it within the proper window and top coated with a custom mixed PPG color.

I have also helped a friend with his rock-crawling jeep. had the frame powder coated, then rhino-lined. The body was painted in rattle can primer as it was a trail vehicle.

If your doing a driver, I wouldnt make it too pretty, as you will go insane with touchups and waxing it. If its a show piece, then go nuts.

I gotcha evidence right here... Though I wouldn't call it a gem,... just yet.
55.2 Chevy 3100 NAPCO

By the way, this project wouldn't have been possible without all of your advice!

Honestly NOT trying to pick an argument but sometimes a more economical (and slower) way MAY be the best way. I'm not saying I would EVER paint over scale or rust using my part-at-a-time approach. On the contrary, I'd pressure wash the chunks off, clean the scale, loose rust and paint off with a wire wheel, then sand (not a DA air sander as is standard in all car magazine write ups = expensive compressor & accessories) with my regular cheapazz electric sander, all the paint to an acceptable finish before priming and painting. Maybe by brush if necessary but if using a good self-leveling oil based enamel like Rustoleum, how is this "cheap" or substandard? Its not like we're going to be laying on the ground admiring our frames daily. If you want to do that, then by all means, go nuts.

I'd rather have the knowledge I did a thorough - if slow job, and can sand/touch-up minor chips inexpensively as necessary with indetectable results.

I do

I did not mean your job was substandard. I meant that I do not understand using "its gonna be a driver" as an excuse for skipping steps such a derusting or removing imperfections. I'm sorry if I offended anyone.

No offense taken. We're cool.

I agree completely. Oh, and I've been using the same electric Black & Decker sander for years. It think it cost $15 bucks! Same goes for my bench grinder/wire wheel. Just a cheap $40 buck Black & Decker. Sometimes the cheap tools works just as well as the expensive ones.

OK the break is over... Get back to work...

It all goes back to the old saying............."It's YOUR truck-do it the way YOU want!!

Agreed, but talking about them and how you do what you do to them is a big part of the fun for me. I say the guys that are doing the same kind of truck projects are "friends we haven't met yet". Meaning, if you lived down the block from me and had a '46 (or whatever) in your driveway, I KNOW I'd stop by to shoot the breeze with you and compare notes.

Dan,
I wholeheartedly agree. Half the fun of doing this stuff is meeting other like minded folks and comparing notes and learning from each other. That's what makes these forums so neat.
It's when the conversation starts turning into, "my way is right, and yours is wrong", that things start to get ugly. Many times there is no one right way-only what works best for that particular individual. That's the only point I was trying to make.

By the way--I wish I did live down the block from you (or any of these other guys). We'd be shooting the breeze all the time!!

Kinda like we're doing now? The beauty of the internet. Gawd knows there are enough nightmares that come out of it. Some good oughta come too.

I am a professional marine painter/blaster/powdercoat guy. It's how I make my living. And no I can't do anything at work even for myself!
Sandblasting is the BEST way to prep most any metal for paint; even sheet metal if you use the right media and turn down the pressure.
I haven't yet learned about this POR-15 product but as concerns toxicity; anything you apply to protect your metal is most likely toxic. Most respirators are for ORGANIC (at one time it was alive)materials, inorganic products will go through organic filter media in your respirator; so always ask for the "product Data Sheet" and the MSDS for stuff your going to use. You can learns tons of stuff from them.
I can tell you powdercoating is very tough but chips like paint because it's so hard! It can sanded and it can be touched up with paint as well.
For show vehicles I would powdercoat, for daily drivers I would consider paint as it's easier to repair as it sands easier and the right kind of paint might be a little more mallable and not chip so much.

PPOR 15 is only really a problem if you spray it. Brushing it on a respirator isn't needed.

I used a respirator even when brushing it on. It is pretty toxic stuff and the smell is nearly unbearable. I am very pleased with the outcome though as the frame looks brand spanking new. Then again I did put about 30 hours into it. YIKES!

I like Zero Rust. There is a review on the tech pages here on the stovebolt. It can be brushed or sprayed and doesn't have the "nasties" as in POR-15. Check out their page:

http://www.zero-rust.com/

Best thing is I found it locally at KMS Tools in BC. I don't have to wait

I used Zero-Rust as well. I was pleased with the results, it has been a few years and holding up well. It was cheaper and less toxic than POR15. It can be sprayed also.
Steve

i like masterseries CT and rustbullet for frames - brush on products are bonus and make nice "frame on" winter projects as long as you have some garage heat:

http://www.masterseriesct.com/

http://www.rustbullet.com/Products/Automotive/Automotive.asp

how about tremclad? i believe it is a rustoleum product,and maybe it is a canadian product.any of you canadian fellas tremclad your chassis'?

yes Tremclad will do the job ... it was Canadian, but was bought out by Rustoleum, so might not be quite what it used to be

I too think Zero Rust is great stuff

Bill

It's nice to hear what you all like for paint but I didn't see much on how long it will last.
I'm willing to bet those high dollar paints will last, else why spend that much money for frame paint.
So here's a history lesson showing the test of time.
Back in the early 70's, I didn't even think of high dollar paint so I went and got Rustoleum red primer and Rusto enamel and gave my frame and suspension two coats of each.
Prior to painting it was just a wire wheel clean up,maybe some sandpaper here and there cause I didn't own a sandblaster yet.
Now this car was not a show car, but a limited street driver.
I always drove it but very little in the winter,wide tires didn't work well in the snow.
I just went out to the garage and looked to make sure I ain't blowin smoke up your differential and that paint is still there and it still has gloss to it.
I can't remember if they had semi-gloss paint 37 years ago nor did anyone care much back then trying to stay with a stock look, because it was customize everything back then.
Now I'm not trying to pump up Rusto paints, I'm just giving you a test of time report on a low dollar way to paint and what happened with it 37 years later.
If I'd wash the dirt off it would look really good cause there is NO RUST.

Dan