Not sure if you are asking the question because you are looking to sell a 1969 C50, or you’re looking to buy one???
Either way, please answer the question as it will help me move your post into the best forum for further discussion.
Best Regards, Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Answering these questions will help you come up with a number.
Is it a road tractor or straight body truck? What engine? What transmission? 2-speed rear? What size tire rims? 22.5" tubeless or 20" tube type? If 20" tube type are they the RH-5 rims which have been out lawed for decades? It's going to need all new tires as what's on it will never roll round again after sitting for 15 years. Any rust repair or major body work needed? What shape is the electrical system in? Brakes hydraulic or Air? Why was it parked 15 years ago?
The bottom line is it's worth whatever number you and the sell agree on...
mk72 - I've moved your question/topic to the best forum for the conversation. Guessing that you may already have a target vehicle you are looking at (?), but you didn't make that clear. On that note, please understand that the answer to your question more basically boils down to your own decision on what the truck is worth to you.
Mike B provides some valid questions/points you need to ask/consider when you try to decide how much you want to pay. A big factor to consider is how much your willing to pump into it to it to achieve your end result, with the realization that you will never get back out of it what you put into it.
Not trying to talk you out of going after the truck, just offering some realistic thoughts as without knowing an extensive amount of detail about what you are looking at and your desired goals, it's not possible for folks to offer much more insight.
BTW - If you don't have a target vehicle in mind, you can always put an ad up in the Trucks Wanted section of the Swap Meet and see what kind of response you get.
Best Regards
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Last fall I sold my ‘69 C50 for $1000. It was a rough old grain truck with a working dump hoist. Tires were good, but it burned oil (most likely from badly worn had valve guides). It had a factory 350 four speed with a two speed rear end. I used it to haul road rock. The power steering was excellent. It could be steered with one finger.
The buyer had a tree service, and already had a C50 that was even rougher than mine. He planned to combine parts from both and have a good working truck for his business.
Thanks for your help. the truck is a flatbed that was only used to haul hay. the truck has no rust and has been parked in the barn. it has the 292 engine with a 4 speed transmission, 2 speed rearend. It has the RH-5 rims. the owner park the truck because of health problems. thanks again for the help.
Replacement rims and tires could cost more than the trucks selling price.
Chances are the brake lines are all original and will need to be replaces (both steel and rubber). Remember the lines fail from the inside, so they may look good on the outside but are a ticking time bomb from condensation collecting in the low spots from not being driven much.
I'm not trying to scare you off, just want you to have your eye's wide open when you jump in! Big trucks are money pits!
Can you post some close up shots of the wheels? There's a pretty simple way to identify the RH-5 wheels- - - -they have a flat area about 2" wide where the two halves of the wheel join together. They're called "widowmakers" for good reason- - - -the lip that engages to lock the wheel halves together is tiny, and very subject to damage from rust or ham-handed assembly methods. The more conventional design sectional wheels with a removable bead ring are perfectly safe to use as long as they're not damaged or badly rusted. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
A fair price for a 1969 C50 that’s a one-owner truck with low miles but hasn’t been driven in over 15 years depends on a few key factors like rust, completeness, and whether it’s been stored indoors. That said, assuming it’s complete and solid but not running, you’re probably looking at anywhere from $1,500 to $3,500 as a fair starting point.
If the body is clean and it’s been inside most of that time, some buyers might go higher—especially if it has a desirable bed, hoist, or original drivetrain. On the flip side, if it’s been sitting outside and has rust issues or seized components, offers might be closer to the $1,000–$2,000 range.
