In April, 2006, I spotted a 1958 GMC Suburban Carryall on eBay. It had a reserve that turned out to be unreasonable. Plus, the old truck was located in Toronto, Canada, a four hour trip from Howell, Michigan.
After the auction ended, I contacted the seller to see if he might be more reasonable. I should have checked into a psychiatric institution instead of pursuing this vehicle, especially after finishing my 1939 Ford deluxe coupe, frame-off restoration.
This Task Force Suburban was such a rare vehicle, I just couldn’t pass it up. I remember these car-trucks from my younger days drag racing up and down Woodward Avenue, but only as work vehicles utilized by plumbers and construction companies. I don’t think I ever saw one of this vintage after the early 60's.
A friend and I set off for Toronto one fine morning and arrived safely and without getting lost (before GPS). The deal was made and we loaded it on the trailer. Although I could have driven it home, I didn’t want to take any chances. The seller had the elusive third seat, but wouldn’t include it in the purchase. He also had a 1958 Suburban, already restored, that he was going to put it in for posterity, I guess.
I had done my customs homework, and knew that a US made vehicle (right down the road in Pontiac, Michigan) being brought back to the country of origin would incur no duty. This didn’t stop all the car aficionado customs officers from admiring it and wanting to sit in it and have their pictures taken. I readily complied.
Last edited by Phak1; 10/08/20242:15 PM. Reason: Edit weird characters
Then the madness commenced. I decided to photographically document each step of the tear-down to insure that senility would not overwhelm my limited mechanical skills. I also acquired every part that I thought I would need to replace, and have it on hand so that I could put it back together as quickly as possible. Little did I know that the list of parts would exponentially grow as the project proceeded.
I removed every part that could be taken off, and replaced every bolt and screw with new fasteners, since automotive fasteners are readily available in the Detroit area even for vehicles 50 years old. I became a daily visitor at several fastener supply companies, and their bottom line increased nicely while my wallet decreased proportionately.
After stripping the vehicle down to a shell and rolling chassis, I sandblasted the entire frame and undercarriage. Then I primered it to prevent rust scale. Next it was off to the media blaster to completely remove everything down to the bare metal, preserving only the original headliner, which was in excellent shape, other than needing a coat of vinyl paint at the end.
The only rusted areas were the bottoms (rear) of the front fenders, some small pinholes around the clamshell hinges, and the right inner hinge pillar cover. The vehicle was immediately primered.
Before turning the 'Burb over to the body and paint experts, I boxed in the front frame rails to accommodate the new 454 big block, and welded in the motor mounts and transmission mount for the 700R4 -- which had already been rebuilt to specifications for this engine. All the brackets, short water pump, fuel pump and fittings were already on hand before primer.
Seats were sent out for re-upholstery as soon as the frames came back from the paint booth. All chrome plating and stainless were completed before paint. When the original wheels were painted, tires were mounted and ready to go. An American Autowire OEM kit was purchased for complete rewiring. The bodywork commenced in November 2008, with the agreement that I would have the Suburban back no later than April 1, 2009.
At the beginning of July 2009 (only two months late), I brought the Carryall home and started reassembling at a furious rate. After running new fuel lines, brake lines, transmission cooler, re-coring the original radiator, rebuilding and silk screening the speedometer, all new glass and weather stripping, dual exhausts with Flowmaster mufflers, tail gate cables and retractors, bumpers and guards, hubcaps, and other items too numerous to mention, It is finally running beautifully and ready to head up to the St. Ignace car show in the upper peninsula of Michigan in June 2010.
I can appreciate the comment about fasteners and the expodential project cost growth as you move forward. Unfortunately I have a long way to go to get to the finished product meaning the costs will continue to grow.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Meticulous preparation and taping is necessary for a perfect paint job. I take no credit for either of those tasks. A professional downdraft booth doesn't hurt either!
1. Centerpunch and drill a 7/8 inch hole in the instrument panel midway between, and in line with, the choke control and the main light switch. See illustration 2.
2. File a 1/16 inch radius slot at the bottom center of the hole just drilled.
3. Insert the lens and housing assembly in the drilled hole, and then slip the spring over the housing.
4. Install the lamp in the socket, and secure this assembly to the lens housing with a twisting motion, compressing the spring at the same time.
5. Pass the long wire (with female terminal) through the main wiring harness clip on the plenum chamber and connect it to the junction block terminal marked "BRAKE LP". Install the fuse. See illustration 1.
6. Attach the flasher assembly to the reinforcement with the flasher clip, as shown in illustration No. 1, Connect the short wire (with male terminal) to the top of the flasher assembly as shown.
7. Attach the switch assembly to the switch bracket with the nut and washer provided and connect the short switch wire to the switch. See illustration No.3.
8. Remove the two forward bolts from the brake lever mounting plate assembly. With these bolts attach the switch assembly flush with the outside surface of the brake lever mounting plate. See illustration No. 3. NOTE: One hole of the switch bracket is slotted for adjustment. With the brake lever in the released position, the switch plunger should be depressed so that it extends approximately 1/32 inch out of the switch. Tighten the bolts securely with the switch in this position, as shown in illustration 3.
9. Connect the switch wire to the underside of the flasher assembly. See illustration 1.
10. Test the installation for correct operation. When the parking broke is applied and the ignition key is turned on, the signal light should flash on and off. When the parking brake is released, the light should stop flashing. If this does not occur, readjust the switch according to the note in step 8.
