The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Project Journals 1952 Chevrolet 3100 Project

That's awesome.
Sounds like your wife is a keeper.

...and feeling stupid to ask; is the primary the one with more brake lining? Does it go in front on both, front and rear wheels?

The short lining shoe always goes on the front of the brake assembly.

11/08/21:I finally got back to working on the ole ‘52. Long overdue, but its been a busy summer and fall for me. In between time entertaining family, I spent most of my time in my basement converting it into a familyroom/bar, a project that has taken me two years so far. In early fall, we took a trip to Portland, Oregon to see our son who moved out there almost four years ago and due to the pandemic, we were not able to visit. Great trip and we loved Portland! Three days later, my sister came up (a genealogy expert) to visit and we took a trip thru New England chasing my wives ancestry and of course the fall colors.

Today, using the new door support I fabricated, I removed the drivers side door to rebuild the hinges, door internals and to replace all the weatherstripping, seals and vent glass.

Rebuilding the hinges went way easier than I expected (how unusual), as I was able to drive out the pins with PB Blaster, a drift pin and hammer. The only issue was when I previously ordered the hinge pins, I thought that it was a kit for each door, only to find out I need to buy two more kits for the passenger side door.

After blasting, assembling and painting, I set them aside to let them dry and continued disassembling the door. I was able to get the door completely disassembled and started cleaning. I found a couple of pin holes at the bottom of the door under the gasket, and have not decided on how I want to tackle them. I’m going to lightly grind them out before I make my decision.

Hinges look great. I found out about ordering something i thought was a kit and only getting half, kinda sucks. Your lift is pretty cool. I have a couple of smaller engine stands so I might barrow your idea. Glad to see your back in the shop.

Phil,
You dodged a bullet on the hinge pins if you were able to drive them out with a drift pin. I needed to drill mine out and am going with oversize pins and bushings. They were seized completely in the straps that go into the doors.

Hit those pinholes with your sandblaster and use some epoxy filler on them.

I was thinking of doing just that before I hit them with a wire wheel on my side grinder and they grew. The outer panel is perfect. I know the right thing is to replace the rusted out metal but I hadn’t planned on doing any metal work just yet, just get the doors and windows working right. I’m not sure what to do.

My doors had similar but more severe rust in that location. I went ahead and ordered patch panels from Jim Carter and welded them in. I don't have a good "before" picture, but here's a couple of in progress photos. The patch panels I got were a good fit.

You could just coat the area with a rust encapsulator to keep it from going any farther and deal with it later when you do the metal work.

I ordered two lower inner door panels along with the hinge pins I need for the passenger door, from Jim Carter and decided to deal with it now. I checked the passenger side and it’s got pin holes too. I don’t want to have to deal with this again since the door is already in a position to work on it. I’ll at least get it to prime.

Just got a email from Jim Carter saying the lower inner door panels are backordered. Why can’t they say “Not in Stock” before they allow you to order it and take your money! Frustrated!

Yeah, I feel your frustration. I've been buying from the Filling Station lately and they call nearly immediately after you order to ask about holding everything till backordered items come in or shipping in-stock items right away and backordered items after they arrive.

11/16/21: I called Jim Carters today and asked about the lower door panel’s on backorder and it turns out, they already shipped one and the second was backordered! So I was good with that. Frustration level now much lower!

I removed the passenger door and found it was in better shape than the drivers side, with only a few pin holes that opened up into 1/8” holes once I cleaned it up with a wire wheel. I’ve decided to encapsulate the rust and fill it with JB Weld. The holes are under where the gasket sits so they will be covered anyway. I’ll encapsulate the inside bottom of the door also.

The remote door operator on the drivers side has never sprung back like the passenger side causing the door not to latch if the handle was pushed forward, so I previously ordered new springs. I pried the tabs open on the casing, took the operator apart and for the life of me, could not figure how to install and set tension on the spring and get it back together. I left it until I could look at the passengers side. Well, that didn’t help at all. I compared the two and they were both different. I suspect one might be aftermarket. Additionally the passengers side was missing the spring that keeps the handle in the lock position and the splines on the shaft are quite worn. After looking at what new remotes cost, I decided to buy new. This time I called the vendor and asked if they were in stock. They were, so I ordered two new ones!

I took the passenger side hinges apart and lucked out again, as the pins just drove out with just like the drivers hinges. I have them blasted and painted waiting for new pins.

I also took the vent windows assembly’s apart, cleaned and painted them. I did have a surprise with the passenger side, a rusted thru spot on the movable frame. It was on the inside about five inches below the hinge on the vertical section. I couldn’t figure out why it would a rusted in that spot. I could see it rusting thru on the bottom, but that area was perfect. I was able to cut it out to good metal, fit a patch and weld it in.

Things are progressing, at a slow pace but still moving forward!

Nice job on that vent window. That's some delicate structure. I'm currently working on putting my vent windows back together. I got a second pair of the assemblies on my road trip and was glad I did. It took both sets to get a good one. I wasn't about to try welding the rust holes I found in the movable frame. My rust was on the bottom though, and one of the pivot bolts was too rusted to use.

Your patch on the vent window frame made it look like it never happened. Some very good work.

Thanks guys! Next patch is the door bottom. I’m hoping that goes as well!

Speaking of vent windows, an FYI that I noticed while trying to remove the nut on the pivot. After tension adjustment from the factory, they crimp the nut so it difficult or impossible to remove. The pivot stud has flats on both sides that correspond to the crimps. Drivers side came of with not too much effort but the passengers side would only turn maybe an eight of a turn (after soaking with PB Blaster overnight and working it back and forth several times). I was afraid I was going to sheer off the pivot stud, so I used a nut buster to save the pivot. I’ll replace the both with a 5/16”-24 nylock nuts.

I think you were up against rust on the threads on the nut that were exposed in the flats. On mine I just soaked them good and ran them back and forth a bit till they loosened up. At least there was no crimp on the nuts on mine.
I don't think there's a need for Nylock nuts there as the spring is a giant lockwasher. But it can't hurt.

Mine were definitely crimped. If you blow up the picture you can see it. the picture is from the drivers side that did come off and every 1/2 turn of the nut, it got tight. I tried soaking and wrenching on the passenger side for two days and thats when I noticed the crimp. I will put Nylock nuts on, even if it’s only for insurance as it’s not the easiest to get to.

OK, I had to go dig mine out and look. They were crimped as well, just flattened on one end on two opposing flats. I guess I was just lucky to get them off without messing something up.

11/18/21:My package from Jim Carter showed up yesterday with one new lower door replacement panel and I’m anxious to get started. I need to wait until my spot weld removal bits show up so in the meantime, I’ll continue on the passenger side door. I had previously sprayed the lower inside door with rust encapsulator, both inside and outside to treat the small pin holes of rust , applied JB Weld to plug the holes, skim coated with Bondo, sanded and primed all set for touch up paint. I also sanded and applied Rust Encapsulator on some rust spots around the upper door frame to keep them from spreading.

I gave the repaired vent window frame a few coats of gloss black and brought it inside to dry a few days before I reassemble it. I also sand blasted the window regulators and gave them a coat of paint. They look to be in good condition aside from the missing rollers that engage with the channel on the bottom of the window. I ordered a new set of rollers from the Filling station.

Looks great, Phil! I'm looking forward to seeing your door windows go back together. I haven't gotten around to taking mine apart yet.

Brian

Brian, I was just out your way visiting my son who lives in Hillsboro, just outside of Portland. First time out to see him in close to four years (he moved there November 2017, pre Pandemic) and first time to the Pacific Northwest. You live in a beautiful section of our country.

11/23/21: I finished welding in the drivers side lower inner door panel. Things went pretty well except while cutting out the patch. one part of the seam got a bit wide requiring a bit more welding and allot more grinding. I ended up grinding the edge where the outer and inner panels meet, to separate the panels, because the lip of the outer panel that wraps over the inner panel was way to rusted to open the fold. I added the lip and just welded the edge where the three pieces meet.

Overall, I am very pleased with the way it came out and anxious to start reassembling the door. I’m only touching up the the door in the areas that I messed with, so I’m having trouble with getting a color match with a spray can, it doesn’t have to be perfect but just close enough so It doesn’t look too amateurish. It’s somewhere between almond and ivory (I’ve tried both). If I could mix the two cans together, it would be a perfect match. Probably Not! LOL!

Looks good, Phil
You might check out Rustoleum Canvas White. I found it a close match to the original Waldorf White of my inner grille.
Just take your door to the hardware store so you can match the spray paint they have on the shelf.

At one of the local Wal-marts, the spray paint aisle is multi-color from the idiots testing the rattle cans.

LMAO!

Phil, I just bought a patch panel for my passenger at a swap meet this last weekend. I've been looking at everyone's posts and trying to work up the never to cut into it. You made it look to easy.

But Phil, the big box stores have those carts that hold plywood sheets, that would be ideal for your door. Just roll up to the paint aisle.

Go for it Craig. If I can do it, you can too. Besides, you bought a Made in China "exact fit" patch panel.

Then I could be one of those idiots that try them on the door to get a color match!

I have to agree with you on how beautiful it is out here. I have a great view of Mt. Rainier from my yard and never get tired of looking at it. I hope you had some decent weather while you were out this way. We've had some whopper flooding situations lately. We certainly need the rain and the snow pack after the overly-dry summer we had, but it can get to be too much. Sure makes everything nice and green out here, though!

Nice job, Phil! Looks like one for the 'win' column!

11/24/21 I started assembling the vent windows and it was a bit more difficult than I expected. The rubber seals went into the frame fairly easy. The remaining seal for the vent window gets riveted to the frame. I used a 1/4x2 flat bar clamped in my vice to act as an anvil (3/8x2 would have been better, but that is all I have). Armed with rivets and the setting tool I bought with the rubber seals, I attempted to set the rivets and found that the tool was way too short to get a good wack with a hammer. I couldn’t get a good enough swing without hitting my newly painted frame, so I needed a plan “B”. Once again my lathe came to the rescue and I machined the end of a 10” long timber spike to look like the setting tool. That enabled me to use a 3 lb. mallet, striking the spike above the frame to set the rivets. Hindsight is 20-20 and I should have hardened the end I machined, as it was pretty beat up after setting the rivets. Even the setting tool I bought wasn’t hard. It did do it’s job though!

Next was the installation of the felt liner for the front of the roll down window. Its located on the back of the vent window and extends into the door. It has a tacky rubber finish on the outside and the Youtube video I watched, it said to place a small bead of silicone in the bottom of the track to help keep it in place and press it in with your thumbs. My thumbs still hurt from pressing that felt channel in. That tacky rubber coating kept the channel from sliding in easily and in some places it started to shave the coating off the channel. I used a very thin blade putty knife to help massage them in place. What I thought would be a five minute job, turned out to be closer to a half hour per side, and I am only talking about installing the felt liner.

If I had a few spare channels to practice on, I would try skipping the silicone and just spray the outside felt liner track and the u-channel it sits in with WD-40 and then hopefully just press it in. I believe the penetrant would help it slide in and once the WD-40 evaporates, the tacky rubber will adhere to the channel. I don’t really know it that would work, but there must be an easier way.

Phil

Good tip on the extra long setting tool for rivets. I have that part to do as well, and may just weld an extension on the setting tool I got with the rivet kit.

On the channel, maybe using a bar that fits inside the channel to push it into place would work better than your thumbs. If you push on the bottom of the channel, it will tend to make it shrink a bit in width. I think I'd be tempeted to try your lube trick as well. I still have to get out in my trailer to see if I have the correct channel for the division bar. I previously dug out the channel that goes into the door itself, which is wider than the one that goes in the division bar.

Phil,
The more I follow your work the more I admire your skills. You have used your lathe for small jobs many times during this project, it makes me think I could really use on in my shop. I'll have to see what for sale around here. I worked in a small motorcycle machine shop in High School, just a little over a year before the owner retired. I did learn a little about the machine tools and there set up, I ran a 20 ton punch press and a 1930's screw machine. I may know just enough to be dangerous.

I highly recommend picking up a used lathe. Look for at least a 9”. “9” is technically the biggest thing that would fit but thats a bit deceiving as that is over the ways and not the carriage. Plus a chuck on a 9” lathe is typically only 5”-6” large. I picked mine up at a yard sale (12” Craftsman which is made by Atlas), for $150 with most of the attachments. It basically just needed a good cleaning and adjustment. I’m not saying you will find that deal, but they are out there if your patient.

I’ve seen your talent and you would have no problem running a lathe!

I'll have to keep an eye out for one. First things first though, starting work this month on the roof and walls for my shop, hope to have it completed by spring.

Yeah, good idea! I’ve seen pictures of your shop and you definitely do not have room for a lathe. A dry, shady spot to work is number one!

12/05/21: Things have not been going so well with rebuilding the door interior hardware. It started with a success, but quickly went down hill from there. I installed sound deadener (KilMat) in the drivers side door and that turned out great. Not the easiest to install, working in cramped quarters, but I was able to cover nearly 100% of the outer skin. I used an old wallpaper seam roller to press it in and had a radiant kerosene heater heating the door to soften the butyl rubber for better adhesion.

I then tried to install the rubber glass sweep I purchased from Classic Parts and I was too big to fit in the track. The track is approximate 5/16” and the sweep was 7/16”. The only known sweep that fits, is from the Filling Station and they are on backorder. Not sure what I’m going to do a about it. I may have to take a razor knife to it.

Next I tried to install the Glass in the vent frame. Again, I ordered the tape from Classic Parts and it turns out that it too big. The frame ID minus the thickness of the glass equals .088”. That leaves .044” for the tape (each side). The tape was advertised as 3/64” (.046”), would be near perfect. Unfortunately it’s .068” and that is just way too big. I ordered 3/64” tape from eBay and now I just have to wait.

Wanting to get a little success, I tried to install the new window rollers I received from the Filling Station into the window regulator arms, and in my opinion would not have lasted very long. The fit of the rivet into the regulator arm was really loose (over .010”). The rivet was hollow and the wall thickness (where its hollow), was only about .015”. When I peened the rivet, it split into several sections. If the fit was good, it may have been fine, but with such a sloppy fit, I felt it would have started to wobble and in time it would have fallen out. The original rivet was solid, the fit was a tight press fit and still solid when I ground and punched it out.

Again my lathe to the rescue. I fabricated two new rivets for the new nylon rollers that fit the arms tight. I installed them on the regulator arms and peened the over, so now they are tight and I feel like the repair will last.

The first picture shows the split rivet, Second shows the hollow rivet and the the rivet I made. The third shows the finished product.

There is a common denominator among these issues and others that I have experienced and that seems to be import parts. I have bought allot of of these parts from Classic Parts and it’s not just them. I have gotten cheap, ill fitting parts from most online vendors. It’s a shame that their quality assurance is not better. One thing I can say for Classic Parts, the Filling Station, LMC, Jim Carter and I’m sure there’s others, is they have resolved any issue I’ve encountered to my satisfaction. Unfortunately, that does not help with the disappointment, frustration and not to mention delays these issues cause. This forum is a good way we can help each other from falling into the same pitfalls that I and others have.

If you have a success or failure with your parts please share!

I'm dismayed to hear about your issues with Classic Parts. Awhile back I ordered their cab rubber kit (window gaskets, etc.) and have it on the shelf waiting for the day I get my cab to that point. I was just thinking of ordering their door kits. After reading about your experience, I'm not sure I will, and am now concerned about the fit of some of the items in the cab kit. And by the time I can actually try to install them, it will be too late to do a return. I think I will instead purchase the items I need individually so that I can deal with the problem ones as they arise. As an aside, I've already used a lot of their items when I rehabbed my chassis, and did not have any issues with anything at that time.

Brian, like you, I like to have my replacement parts on hand when I tackle a project. It’s bad enough that you don’t find all of the issues until you take apart an assembly, but to have issues with the parts you ordered to fit your model, that is a shame.

The problem with ordering when you do the job is allot of the items are on backorder. I ordered these parts in beginning of July and got the final backordered item, over four months later.

I don’t have the answer. All I can do is to post my success’s, where the parts came from and hopefully it will help other ‘bolters.

Phil
That's interesting that The Filling Station sent hollow rivets with those window rollers. The rivets I got from them last year were solid and a good fit to the hole in the regulator arm. I peened them over with a cold chisel just like the originals were done.
Having a lathe would be a good thing, but I'd have to kick something else out of my garage to fit one in. I have a couple of lathe projects in the wings for my truck project as well. I do know a couple guys with lathes and will hit them up for those projects.