The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Archived Journals 1948 Chevy 3/4 ton - Poncho

Ran into a problem, I can't flare the stainless! Wonder if I can bring it in somewhere ..

We’re are you using stainless tube?

Got some for the fuel line to the carb

Kevinski - old filter is 5" tall and 4.25" in diameter.

Saw a guy on youtube use a vise to pinch the stainless to flare it, going to try that.

Also got around to welding the deep groove up:

For the shaft:
1 - do I need to disassemble it any further?
2 - how much of it can I paint? Can I do the ball joint on the end? Or just leave it oiled?

The fram c4 is a little shorter but found this on the web site .Napa has the filters also I like them better but they are twice the price.cheaper at rock auto if you are ordering something else .Canadian tire still stocks the fram but for how long ?I got a couple from Canadian tire just to have.

This just came in, got some cutting and welding to do:

Also, just got a call that my pressure plate is ready. Holy, when it rains it pours!

Looking for the best way to cut this piece and merge with the original:

I was just going to cut out the bottom, but all the weight sits on the center mount. I'm thinking maybe I will keep the whole piece and add the sides from the original. Just looking for the strongest option...

I would put the splices in the vertical since your new bottom piece looks to be pretty solid. You could use the bolt hole locations on the original to insure that the bottom piece is installed in the right place. You could use a couple of pieces of the original as fishplates for the joints. That would help line them up properly as well.

We'll, abandoned the stainless and then took forever just to flare the steel line. Here an original and the new one side by side, hopefully it will hold up...

How does the compression fitting work? It's pretty loose on there, just keep it close to the screw cap and it should push/squeeze it in place?

My vacuum advance line has that type of fitting if I remember correct you push the line in all the way while tightening the brass nut and the ring compresses on the tube.

Ya, that's what this is for. Wasn't sure if it needed to be crimped in place first or something.

I just ordered some C4P oil filters and I have a few questions:

- How much oil will I now need for the 261?
- Am I able to put the oil in and add a filter later? Is this a bad idea?
- Since this is first start of a newly refreshed engine, how soon after should I be changing out the filter?

Looking forward to first start

Canadian tire stocks the filter,there product number is on the picture I posted above a few posts ago ., no problem taking the top off the filter cover but I usually put some oil in the canister when I change the oil as well as use a turkey baster to get the old oil out when I change the oil.

I know it is a bypass filter but I would wait for the filter

Ya, I tried my local CT, they had nothing to offer. Even online I can't find the filter that you posted, it gives me product #117-5310, which doesn't look right at all.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/fram-extra-guard-oil-filter-0171701p.html

Website is messed up the product number should be see attachment .when I put in your area theses pop up .I am guessing your near welland .Maybe a phone call to confirm or if you ordered already may not be that long of a wait for the trouble.

So I ordered two oil filters online from a Canadian site, they got back to me and said they didn't have any in stock, but would send me two Wix's as replacement for same price I also called my local CT and they ordered in a Fram for me, which I will use for break-in and then go with the better filters after that. Best-case scenario, I 'could' be up and running tomorrow...

👍 looking forward to hear you got it running

Some subtle differences, but two are one:

Nice job must have heat in there cold is headed your way -30 c with wind -37 .

Ya, looks like substantial storm headed this way.

So I got plugs cleaned up and gapped, same with the points. Oil filter came in too, so ready to pour that in. Sounds like 7 quarts is right, based on other posts. I can't trust the dipstick yet, as I had to add one since it was missing and it's possible something is off. I'll put in 7 and we'll see what she looks like.

Being a Pontiac engine, looks like 5 quarts is what it actually holds. I just put in T liters, hope that's ok!

Yea was just going to say but before I posted I found this on the Pontiac form . That way you can check your dipstick after the proper amount of oil is put in as it may be the same as one of your old motors but it I think it also depends if the oil pan is the same .

How long should it take to get fuel to the pump? Any way to test that I installed it right?

She popped off, but foiled by a dead battery...

Tripped up by a bad charger. In the meantime, clutch and pressure plate installed. Also did the 'cold' valve adjustment from the manual. Hopefully soon it'll fire. Then on to the transmission...

Ok, I have spark and gas, but it's not firing. It was firing every 5 or 6 revs but that was it. I bolted down the distributor with advance at zero degrees and rechecked the cold valve lash. Now it doesn't pop at all. Plugs don't seem to smell like gas and if I open the throttle, there is a puddle of fuel in the intake. Suggestions?

Have you favourite beverage start from square one and check and rule out one thing at a time until you find what it is .I remember putting my engine in years ago and I had my distributer 180 degrees out it would still line up with the timing and it would fire .That is my guess

As Kevinski said go back to the basics, compression, fuel, and spark. It sounds like you have conformed fuel in the intake and we gather that you have compression so spark, at the correct time would appear to be the missing ingredient. Easiest check for timing being close is to put the engine at TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed) remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing toward the number 1 spark plug wire. If it's in the neighborhood timing should be good enough to fire, or at least pop. If timing looks good and you know you have spark then try a quick shot of starting fluid in the intake. If it pops on the starting fluid you don't have sufficient fuel.

Ok, first thing's first. Is the distributor supposed to sit lower than this? I asked earlier and didn't get a response. Should it sit right on the vac ring on the block?

I would need to go look at my engine but I believe the flange should be tight to the block, as shown in the picture the mounting bolt would bend the flange as you try to tighten it.

I already had the flange bolted down, it just slides up and down the shaft, no bending. Maybe it's not in the oil pump...

I don’t think it should slide up and down that much it should allow for the distributer to turn but not go up and down .I think mine has a clamp on the advance but I see others don’t but maybe you the vacume advance is not on the distributer proper. I will check mine a little later . When you put the distributer in you can look down in the engine and see the slot for the oil pump and turn it to line up when you put the distributer in .(by the way did you prime the oil pump).

Looks like they all have the clamp yours is not seen in your picture .Here is a picture of my distributer from my spare 235 I pulled out the part with the clamp does not move up or down. Getting cold here snowbanks are taller than me .

Looking at your picture then mine it looks like your vacume advance is clamped to far up .I would use a piece of coat hanger cut and bent straight then use it to measure how far it goes down in the engine in the oil pump slot then compare that measurement to the distributer .here is a Picture from Deves site.

Deve's pic is pretty clear, mine isn't seated down into the pump. I will start again! Will spin the pump first though...

This is what I notice is different

Pulled dizzy out, no other 'shoulders' for vac ring to sit on:

Took a rough measurement to oil pump too, looks like it should sit right down on the ring, so will address that soon.

Spun the oil pump until it seeped out the rockers. Last one took a bit before it dribbled out. Didn't have the filter canister tightened down so a nice oil mess.

I have the flywheel on the ball-bearing with Poston at the top, but how do you tell if the valves are closed? They all look the same to me...