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Resurface flywheel, change out clutch, pilot and release bearing.

Get a bronze pilot bearing, not a steel one.

What do I measure to determine the size of the clutch? Seems to be two sizes, 9-1/8" and 10".

Got it off and cleaning it up. Does it just tap on? Does it need any product to keep it on place?

Still trying to determine the size of this clutch too.

I believe clutch size is based on the diameter of the disk. I just measured mine and it's ~9". The pressure plate diameter is ~9.5".

The balancer just drives on. Use something to support the rear of the crankshaft and a piece of hardwood and a large hammer. You'll feel/hear it when it's home. Put some sealant in the key slot so that doesn't leak (probably overkill, but since you already have it off, it can't hurt.) There's nothing but friction keeping it in place. Later engines used a bolt in the center of the crank.

I am clutch illiterate, so I'll put this here for confirmation on the size I need:

That would be a 10" or 11" clutch. I had forgotten you were working on a 261. My engine is a 216, so not the same.
If you know the year of the Engine, NAPA or other parts store can probably fix you up with a clutch kit.

This was the clutch that came off the 216, with the 4 speed.

Looks like a 10.5 inch to me.

Is that normal for a 216?

It would be for a 3/4 ton or heavier truck. They came with a 10-3/4 inch clutch.
1/2 ton models would have a 9-1/8 inch clutch.
[on edit]After a bit more research I found the 10-3/4 ton clutch was available as an option on 1/2 ton trucks. The smaller clutch has 6 bolts holding it on to the flywheel, while the heavier duty clutch (and flywheel) has 9 bolt.

That makes sense, thanks!

Finding a HD clutch seems to be a bit difficult. If I can find a new disc, is reusing the pressure plate a bad thing?

If the surface where the disc runs on the pressure plate is in good shape (no heat cracks or discoloration or deep grooves), and the spring is in good shape, then it should work OK.

I would take it down to a local brake and clutch shop so they can see it ,they may have it in stock ,If you are in Ontario near the border you may be able to order from state side and pick it up Napa in the US is usually a lot cheaper than on our side it is disappointing looking at the difference in prices for the same part numbers.

Is NOS bad for clutches? Like if it's been on a shelf for 70 years?!

I'd buy one if reasonably priced. It's got to be better than one that's been used for 70 years.

Cross member is cracked in same spot on both sides. Just clean it up and weld a bead?

Rather than simply relying on a weld, I'd suggest adding a small piece of angle iron as a reinforcement, after welding the crack.
Jerry

Took the generator apart and cleaned it up. Any products I should apply to it before closing it in again? I was thinking of anti-oxidant on the connectors. Can I spray some fluid film on the armerature?

Photo

Also - I see that the 216 has a smaller upper rad hose compared to the 261. Any issues in using the smaller one on the 261? Do need just the thermostat housing? Or the 'elbow' that attaches to the block as well from the 216?

Going to fill in these gouges from the old broken motor mounts. Is the big flat recession inside of the marks also damage? Or should I leave them?

Looking through some pics, looks like it's supposed to be pretty smooth, so guess I'll fill in those flat spots. Gouges are gone though...

I just saw someone offering a replacement engine mount crossmember in the Freebie Forum. Given the cracks and gouges in yours, I would have considered replacing the whole thing.

If shipping wasn't so crazy, I would consider a donor. Not my best work, bit doubt anyone's ever going to see it...

Next time:

Looks pretty good. I've done similar weld buildup on my front crossmember, as well as a somewhat less severe crack on the engine mount crossmember.

I would grind a bit to widen that crack to form a "V" before welding. You want to be sure to get full penetration.

Good call will do

Welded:

And with some angle with a plug weld in the middle:

Not the prettiest, but looks better than the other side!

Sorry, probably posting too much, but it was suggested to do this before the engine goes in, so I just wanted to post a follow-up. I have engine parts arriving today so the specific questions are coming!

What kind of welder, and welding rod are you using? Try some 7014 next time, especially if you're using an AC buzz box.
Jerry

I only have a mig, but it's 220v, so I can crank it up. Stick would be nice to learn too.

Front mount cover has been cut out. Is this going to be a problem? Is it worth welding a piece back in?

The filling station has them 10.95 .it is a grease shield so as long as it stops the grease from getting to the rubber you could use it.on second thought looks like it is a big hole weld or replace.

It may have just been worn thru. Mine was in similar shape but not quite as bad as yours. I bought the replacement from The Filling Station.

Does the front mount 'cover plate' always have these impressions?

Also, does the curved edge face the engine or the rad?

The shop manual doesn't cover that. Install it so there's the most clearance to both the oil pan and the radiator. I don't recall how I did mine, but could go look at the engine (I have it on a stand with the front mount bolted to the front plate of the engine.)
It does tell you to be sure there's clearance between the cover plate you bought and the lower plate. If there's interference, the rubber mounting won't work to absorb vibration.

Found picture of the mount pieces

Thanks, plate looks pretty flat, might build mine up or pick up another. Still unsure about the lip.

I didn't pay close enough attention when I took mine off. I put it on with the curved part facing forward, but after looking at it, that puts the drip cover pretty close to the crank pulley. I may have to do some more research and maybe turn it around to see if it's a better fit. It won't interfere with the radiator the way it is now.

Your mount plate looks pretty worn. Likely from vibrations and loose fasteners over the years. The spots where the carriage bolts go thru are worn where the heads sit. I had to weld on the front engine plate to get the square holes square again, but the mount parts other than the drip cover were OK.

You can get the whole mount set from the usual vendors.