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EDIT by Moderator: Back in February 2016, Goach2 started his story in the DITY Gallery: Where it all began.

"I found this truck on Kijiji out in the Winnipeg Manitoba area. I've been looking for some time now and I really like the look of this year, condition and the fact that it's a 3/4 ton…."

That story continues here:

Hello all,

I've finally pulled my truck off the road to do an engine swap and clean it up a bit. I expect that this will be a long project, but I am motivated to get it done and back on the road for next year.

Here's what I have done so far:

I have a fully rebuilt 261 that was bored .060, which was discussed here:
Poncho Rebuild

I pulled the front clip:

I also dropped the driveshaft and removed the propeller shaft from the back of the trans. My next step is to pull the transmission right out as I will clean it up and I have a new gasket set to install in it. Where the propeller shaft goes through the mount that holds it to the frame was pretty loose. I think I will be replacing something here, just not sure what is required yet.

I also found this under the rad mount:

Looks like it had a single mount in the middle at one time. I may already have a replacement piece located to cut/weld in.

So I will try and keep this updated as much as possible. I am hopeful to have more time with the colder weather coming to get out in the garage. Thanks!

Hello Goach2,

It looks like you are installing the 261 in a 1948 Chevrolet Thriftmaster 3/4 ton Chevrolet truck?

What year 261?

What rear-end will you be using?

What clutch assembly will you be using?

Tim - that's right, going in my 3/4 ton. 261 is a 59/60 from a Canadian Pontiac. I just upgraded the rear end to 4.11s and I'm keeping my 6 volt system, with original starter/flywheel and clutch.

I should mention that I'm mechanically inclined, but not a mechanic and this will be a first for me

Will you be relocating the water pump (and, using your old water pump)?

Yes, I had the machine shop install one of Deve's relocation plates so that I can use the original.

Deve shows/refers-to that plate on his website

However, another member here "invented"/sells that plate,

Pre '68 Dave

Right, thanks for clarifying.

Couple of pics from when the engine came home.

Still have yet to unwrap it! Credits to the Stovebolt for the dolly design

Bet your excited to get going. I remember when I got mine back from the machine shop, it looked much the same way. It took me a couple of weeks to build it and paint it before I was ready to install it in my truck. All total I removed it in July 2019 and it was back in December 2019. It took me more time to clean everything to get it ready for paint, than it did to do the install. It turned out awesome!

Take your time when you reassemble, check everything twice and you’ll be fine! Good luck with your reassembly!

Good advice, thanks Phil. I agree, just having the front clip off, I can see a lot of work just cleaning up the engine bay before even starting on the engine. I will have to set some parameters to work between or this could go on for quite some time!

Ok, this week I am finally pulling the original. Trans is already out and front clip as well. I've read multiple opinions on which bolts to hook to and there doesn't seem to be too much consensus. I'm likely going to use an intake bolt and maybe water pump to pull it, as I don't want to untorque a head bolt. Are there any suggestions though for my freshly painted block? The intake/exhaust and water pump are also off of it...

When I pulled mine (with tranny still mounted, but with the body off), I hooked to the generator bracket on the front left and a starter linkage bolt on the bell housing on the right. It was not very well balanced and I used a ratchet strap hooked to the clutch linkage. You may be able to use the starter linkage bolts on both sides, and a thermostat housing bolt on the front. Even without the tranny it's going to be a bit heavy at the rear.
But if you want to avoid paint chips, then head bolts would be best. There's no worry about removing two of them, as they can be retorqued without issue. You just have to figure out which two to use for best balance. The shop manual says which ones, but that's with the tranny still attached.

On my GMC engine, I used the valve cover bolts on a spreader bar I made, that way it will remain upright and it can be tilted for insertion.

Knew I had a better picture.

Ed

That's really cool, thanks for sharing those.

Buy a couple of 3/8-16 Grade 5 (NOT all thread) bolts slightly longer than the rocker arm stand bolts and make a couple of short pieces of angle iron with holes to bolt the lift chain onto.
Jerry

Is that a quick and dirty version of Ed's lift?

How does this come off? Tried a little heat, but the smaller one is a bit rounded and I can't get a grip on it. Any tips?

Vice grips.

If I make it worse, how does one go about replacing this? A whole new line? Or can a new end be put on it?

a good set of line wrenches come in handy on brake lines, oil filter lines etc.

Tubing wrench slips over line and move to nut, come in sizes. Looks like it is too late for the smaller nut, can you get the other end loose, then undo the large nut, otherwise cut the line to get it loose.

Ed

Is this the oil pressure gauge? Would I be able to reflange it? Pretty small line. I have line wrenches, but it's too rounded.

Can't tell from your picture. Where does the other end go? If it's also a similar fitting, you can replace the whole thing. All the fittings and tubing would be available at a hardware store.
Like I suggested, vice grips will get the fitting loose, or grind it completely down. I'd be surprised if vice grips won't get that loose.

It goes through the firewall, under the dash

Actually, this is on the block, under the manifolds. If it's the oil pressure sensor and I'm going from a 216 to a 261, do I need a higher pressure sensor?

I used an aftermarket oil pressure gauge that came with plastic tubing and compression fittings. The plastic tube with compression fittings worked for many years.

If that's the oil pressure gauge line, then no problem cutting it and removing the fitting from the block. Going from a 216 to 261, you probably need a higher range gauge. There's no "sensor", but just the pressure gauge that reacts to the oil pressure transmitted up the tube. Most modern gauges are electronic, but the old ones directly measure the pressure from oil sent to the gauge. If the line breaks, oil will be pumped out the break, wherever it occurs, in the engine compartment or behind the dash, so you need to be careful on routing so the tube doesn't rub on anything that might wear thru it. You should also put a vibration loop in the tube if you use copper so it doesn't break from vibration. Walter's suggestion of plastic tubing alleviates the vibration problem. It needs to be rated for the pressure expected (probably 100 psi minimum).

So, if I cut this line, can I reflange it? It's so small!

It's probably not a flanged line, but a compression fitting, either a separate ferrule or a captive ferrule fitting like this.. Cut the tube straight across near the fitting and it should just re-insert into a new adapter fitting that you'll screw into the block.

Vice grip for the win! Everything has been detached from the engine, tomorrow she comes out.

Normally there is a small washer with an .032” hole in it to prevent all the oil rushing out fast, might already be in the system, usually under the initial fitting in the block.

Ed

That would act as a snubber so the gauge doesn't bounce with any pulsations in oil pressure from the pump. I didn't look to see if there was that small hole in the fitting on mine, but will try to remember when I start putting it back together.

Before, after and with a good scrub. Lots of work to do yet...

Ok, now that the engine is out, time to start transferring parts to the new one. Since I am keeping the 6v system, I will be keeping the starter, generator, coil, flywheel and bell housing. I have the adapter plate already installed, so I will also take the waterpump, pulley and fan as well as the balancer. Front mount plate was also installed, so I will reuse the front mount, but replace the rubber and bolts.

Anything else?

Is the old engine a 216 the carb looks like a older carter carb .Are you using the manifolds ?

No, I have the carb, manifolds and distributor from the 261 that's replacing the 216.

Great

Anything to be concerned with here?

I would go for a new clutch kit for the trouble of having to do the work to change it down the road but that is just me .I do see a broken spring in the disc and some slippage marks but that is why I would change it if it were mine because I dont know too much about how they wear ,I would also change the real ease bearing and pilot bearing .

Get the flywheel resurfaced as well. Might as well start off with reconditioned parts since you have it down that far.