The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 67 c-50 rear brakes

Got the c-50 home and have a wheel cylinder leaking so i am trying to tear it down. The drum is tight i cant move the adjusters so i am going to make a puller.
I am trying to the the bearing out so that i can wiggle it to get the drum off but the bearing stops tight at the groves. I cant really get anything in there to really grab the bearing.
Any help or in sight my first time working on this big stuff but not on drum brakes.
Thanksdrum
bearing

Hy wickedinhere, you might try tapping on the hub at the outboard edge to see if you can center the hub around the bearing and thereby release the tension on the bearing, a strong stick magnet may help you to pull the bearing out once the tension is released. Hope that helps.

Thanks the bearing spins and slides out about a inch and wont go farther i will make sure its centered then try again.

Use the axle cover cap as a pattern to make a disc out of 1/4" steel or aluminum plate, and find a socket a little smaller than the diameter of the axle tube snout. Then use some all-thread rod and nuts to pull the plate against the socket. The drum, bearing, and hub will follow as you tighten the nuts. Three pieces of threaded rod will probably be sufficient.

Thanks Lincoln i will be making a puller. I knew the other side was leaking oil from the rear end so i figured i would pull it apart and the pads look new but are soaked in gear oil. Can i just clean them and scuff them and reuse them or will i have to get new ones just gonna change all the wheel cylinders/seals while i am in there.Where can i get the axle seals for my 67c-50? I have to get my engine hoist to hold the drum while i slide it off cause i am sure it weighs a ton.lol
drum

Cleaning soaked brake shoes/pads never works.

I figured as much where is a good place to get new shoes
? I looked but havent found a place yet

If you have drum brakes you have shoes not pads. Just guessing but you are probably going to have to find a shop to recline your shoes. Check with the local semi-truck repair shop for help or maybe they do it in-house. Good luck.

Yes i know pad/shoe difference.I am gonna check with NAPA and see what they have for brake parts and go from there.

A trick we used on big rigs was to leave the wheels bolted on, and slide the wheel and drum assembly off and on the load tube by using an oiled steel plate on the floor. It also gives you some leverage to rock the drum side to side as you pull on the wheel/tire/drum assembly. Just jack the housing up slightly to take the weight off the bearings and remove the bearing retaining nuts.
Jerry

Finally got parts rolling in NAPA had the wheel cylinders and i got the number off the axle seals and got them in also. Napa doesnt show shoes for my truck does anyone know where i could get them. Thankswheel cylinders

They can probably be relined. Check with the closest Big Truck repair shop. If they don’t do it in-house they have someone close by that you can take/send them to.

The auto adjusters were froze but i got them free should i grease the threads or use anti seeze?

I believe I'd use anti-seize as the grease might melt out over time with the heat of the brakes.

Mike B

I got the wheel cylinders changed and a new axle seal pressed in this stuff is so heavy LOL Will clean up and blast all the brake parts then reassemble then on to the other side that the drum is stuck.[img]https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/1451/mF7R9i.jpg[/img][img]https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/7012/T7Pobe.jpg[/img]

Putting the rear shoes back on and was wondering if there is any trick to putting the pins that hold the shoes on any easier. Its hard to hold the pin and push the spring down then try and install the clip. I need 4 hands.HELLPPPPPPPPPPPP

They make a tool for that, but you can hold the clip with a pair of pliers while pushing down on the spring.

Yeah i did that i just used a block of wood behind the backing plate to hold the pin from sliding out. Thanks

I made on from .375” rod, ground thread on end.

Ed

Hey guys got the drum back on and was wondering the best way to set the bearing per load? Should i just tighten till it feels right? i dont have the tool so i will be using a drift and a hammer.

Well i moved to the passenger side rear brake that had the stuck drum. I kept thinking about a homemade puller didnt like that idea so i found a large puller from harbor freight. I sacrificed one of the old wheels so i could use center for the puller to grab on to. The big puller did the trick and it came right off.puller

Without the correct socket how will you know if you've done it right? It would be a shame to ruin all of you're hard work because you didn't buy, borrow or rent the right tools. Find a big truck repair garage and see if they will loan you the socket if you leave a deposit to insure you bring it back...

Mike B

Bearing nut sockets are cheap, look at 4wd places or truck supply places. Nothing says ‘butch’ more than chisel/punch marks on bearing nuts!

Ed

PLEASE don't use a hammer and drift.

You will certainly maul the nuts, and quite possibly nick the threads on the axle tube - making it that much more difficult to remove the next time.

As stated above, those sockets are not overly expensive. I see them on our favorite auction site all the time for $25 - $30. The only difficulty might be getting the exact one for your specific application.

Can you post a pic of the nut with a ruler or tape measure in the pic? I may be able to determine the exact size and type.

Best Regards..

Pic attached thanks so much[img]https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/2213/HVsENf.jpg[/img]

Here is the closest socket that I have (two pics on the left). It is actually for the front wheel bearing locknuts on my GMC CCKW. (The axles on it were made by Chevrolet.)

The inner diameter is almost exactly 3". Can you measure the inside distance of any two slots on your axle nut ? It appears to be 3", but I'm not 100% sure.

I have also seen some used Snap-On sockets on e-pay that look like they might fit. PN: S-9511 looks close, but none of the listings contain dimensions. I'm sure that if you contact the seller, they could provide them.

Or, if someone else on this site has one and can measure it, perhaps they could chime in as well.

Best Regards...

Any shade tree mechanic with a few brain cells to rub together knows how to weld a few pieces of key stock onto a pipe nipple and make his own axle nut spanner wrench. Drill a hole in the pipe for a piece of 1/2" round stock for a handle. The guys with the PHd in "shade tree engineering" weld a junk 1/2" drive socket into the end of the pipe and use a torque wrench for getting an accurate bearing preload.
Jerry

The inner diameter is 3-1/16

Wish I saw this thread earlier, I redid all the brake parts on my 67 c50, converted it to hydroboost and dual master cylinder and still have all the part numbers.

I used a hole saw and cut notches in it for the rear axle nut. I found the real socket on ebay a few weeks later.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...6602/re-axle-nut-socket.html#Post1386602

The socket is from Kent Moore tools #j-22343

Martin Never is a long time,I have cleaned-up those shoes and saved them. I know it's best to change them but when the chips are down you gotta make a move. Wouldn't take chances on a street truck though !

Finally got the other side done on the rear got fluid to the rear I just need to check for leaks this morning. Gotta pull the drive shaft off the carrier bearing is shot and one joint is missing the needle bearings it kinda clanks.LOL

Got the rear all done super singles are on and look great 24.5 wheels will be here today for the front so hopefully next week it will be done. I got the drive shaft off and brought it to the drive line place this morning. One u joint was missing the needle bearings and was clanking, carrier bearing was done.LOL