Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
April 2-6, 2020. I've been able to accomplish nothing this week mainly due to me stabbing myself with a box cutter. The E-Room Dr. said it didn't hit anything important... apparently, the unimportant part is a pain sensor.
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 04/12/20202:58 AM.
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April 7-11, 2020. I haven't been doing much in the shop. I sanded on my doors a bit. I've got them rust resistant on the inside, some of which "leaked" out to the outside, hence the sanding.
I have been working on replacing the leaf spring bushings, they are in there pretty tight.
April 11. I received a replacement radio from Ebay for $102, it is supposed to work. Unfortunately, it was poorly packaged and one of the expensive knobs got broken, grrr. In negotiations with the seller to see what we can accomplish. Hopefully, they have another set of knobs available. My original knobs are much different. I did manage to get the new speakers wired to the radio, which had the wires set up for dual speakers. I need to either find, or plumb in a new power wire then it will be good to go.
May 5, 2020. Update on the radio. I installed a cheap after market antenna from autozone (after the cheap ebay antenna failed me!). The radio works great! And I got it for a nice price as well. AND, I found a 1/4 decent knob to replace the broken knob too.
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 05/10/20202:58 AM.
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April 12-22, 2020. More of the same story. I've mostly been spending a few minutes each day cleaning something or sanding something.
I spent most of the last week re-sorting the 10,000,000 parts that I had strewn all over my garage. I bought a small shelf unit and a bunch of clear plastic containers. I put related stuff into each box and marked it before putting it on the shelf unit. There is still stuff everywhere, but at least I can find what I'm looking for (I hope). I'm still struggling with the leaf spring bushings. My wrist is still pretty painful when I make certain movements, I can lift and carry a 46 lbs head across the shop with my left hand, but I can't twist a bottle cap off. School is getting busy too, it is final's time. I thought I was free and clear with one class, but the instructor just dumped 10 assignments on us! Mrs. Rod wants the lawn all flat and purty, like a golf course... it is NOT going to happen unless I hire someone to do it.
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April 23-27, 2020. I got another shipment of parts from Classic Chevy. I'm hoping that I have enough to get everything essentially back together! (I'm running out of money).
I have been concentrating on sanding the doors and quarter panels. I have been putting off working on the leaf spring bushings since I hurt my wrist, but it is about time to get back on them.
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 05/05/20205:34 PM.
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April 28- May 5, 2020. Still very slow going. I barely manage to even fit in 15 minutes these days. And I've missed several as well. School i almost done, one final and a few more assignments for this semester.
I'm figuring out how things go back together that I didn't remove (or were not there to begin with).
Door latches question. Should I paint them the body color? or pull them off and leave them natural?
Another question? Has anyone ever upgraded the front end with an 80's 4x4 sway bar?
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 05/05/20205:30 PM.
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I vote natural on the door latches. Things are slow lately on my build too... "wile I'm in here" syndrome strikes again.
That will be interesting to see how it feels with sway bar underneath... I'd also consider a sway bar disconnect option in case you're about to drive up a mountain!
May 6-9, 2020. PROGRESS! I finally got the front end put back together. I spent way too much time beating on the first bushing. I should have just pulled the springs like I ended up doing in the first place and using my press.
I found a neat trick too. My fan shroud was in the way, so i set it on top of my trash can. It catches junk much better than just the trash can!!
I used appropriate sized deepwell sockets to press the center part out. I found that my harbor freight press fit perfectly to press out the bushing.... ooops, it was just a little bigger. I had to put a wedge into the spring to get it loose!
I installed a new set of shocks as well.
I did need to replace one of the front spring hangers, as the original was egged out. Of course, my replacement was dinked up too, having been welded on by a previous owner. I rewelded the egged part, then welded on some thick washers on the outside (I use "welded" in a very loose manner). Then I drilled out the hole to the correct diameter.
Thanks Ott3r. I haven't even found a sway bar setup, and won't add "dis-co's" (jeep term?), as I'm not very adventerous. I finished an AA in Horticulture and have one semester (12 credits) of Paralegal studies to go.
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 05/10/20202:48 AM.
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May 9, 2020. I'm just about ready to set the 327 back into the frame. I need to install the rear freeze plugs BEFORE putting the flywheel on!
Then I need to decide which valve covers to put on. I'm leaning towards the shiny heavy aluminum set. the stock tin set is not in good condition. I'd rather not put the vette set on this engine. I've got a poll going on my social media, and so far the heavy aluminum and vette sets are about even.
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 05/10/20202:55 AM.
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That seems to be a common theme with us V8 guys, I spent days looking at valve covers before deciding on something. Some had oil fill holes and PCV holes, some didn't, in the end a bought another set altogether. I had a set of Cal Customs like yours but someone had already butchered the holes, I really like the Corvette valve covers but needed PCV holes.
This is what a ended up with, I'm really happy with the loo. Now I just need paint.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
May 10, 2020. Happy Mothers day, I hope y'all called your Moms!
I was pretty busy today. Mrs. Rod wanted to be treated special today, so I moved her plants outside, then fixed a sprinkler head that I mowed over.
I finally got into the shop at about 1300. I wanted to set the engine back in the frame right away, but decided that I should change the fluids in the front diff, tranny, and transfer case. Of course I ran out of gear oil since I couldn't find the gallon I just bought. I was not happy with the mess that came out of the transmission, yucky milkshake!! with sparkles. I've seen worse though.
I put the flywheel and clutch on, then set the engine into the frame. It took me a solid hour of wiggling it around to finally get it to slide home!!! I should have called my son in law to help!
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 05/11/20205:05 AM.
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May 11, 2020. Slow going again. I managed to get the starter hung and wired before noticing that I didn't have the right size exhaust donuts. Of course my FLAPS didn't have the exact type that I desired, but what I got "should" work. The exhaust is connected after I scrounged up another set of bolts, since I misplaced the original set. I'll find them in the morning. I re-installed the thermostat. I rebuilt my Z-bar for the clutch, since I left it connected when I pulled the block. I didn't realize that I bent the bracket, so of course I had to fight it to get it back on.
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
That 327 looks great setting there, frame cleaned up nice.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
May 12, 2020. I'm getting real close to firing the 327 up again. I hooked up the temperature and oil pressure gauges after running the wires through a handy grommet in the firewall. I had to "massage" the firewall to get the HEI distributor to go into the block. Fuel pump was reinstalled with new rubber hoses. I cranked the engine over to check for leaks on the gauge and see if I was getting adequate oil pressure. All good there. If y'all feel a small earthquake in the morning, don't worry, it's just me firing up the engine!
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May 13, 2002. Another long day. I am the mechanic that "always" installs the distributor 180 out. So, I purposely installed it 180 out and it was right on the #1 cylinder! The 327 doesn't really want to run right though. I'm pretty sure the carb is gummed up, even though it worked fine before the refresh. I have the valves close to set, I got all the racketty racketty out of them. I will go back through once I get it to idle. The highlight of my day was letting my junkyard radiator fall over and poked a big hole in one of the tubes... grrr. I pulled it out and put in the nastier (but leak free) 2 core radiator.
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May 14, 2020. I finished adjusting the valves, reset the timing, and diddled around some today. I've been putting off fixing my broken fan shroud, but got on it today. It looks hideous, but there is no big hole anymore.
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 05/15/20203:50 AM.
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Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
Well dang... I'm missing an Arizona plate from my collection.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
Tuts, I've got several AZ plates, I still have your address and I'll send you one.
May 15, 2020. Some progress was made and some was "un-made". For some reason, there is NO spark to the plugs. I swapped out the HEI cap and coil and It still no worky. It ran fine yesterday. I did not do anything to the ignition system and the BAT wire has 12+ volts? I guess i'll be troubleshooting tomorrow. I put my re-popped wheel house on the right front fender. All but two bolts were right on. I stuck it on the truck to get it out of the way (and make it look like I was making progress!).
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 05/16/20204:00 AM.
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You are the MAN!!!! The "Kogai" is really coming together, a whole lot more than 15 minutes a day... I 'm trying to back on the 59', I went back to work this week.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
May 17, 2020. I had a fairly productive day in the shop. I didn't mess with the distributor so I still haven't gotten it running again, soon though. I welded up the "spare" holes in the passenger door for the west coast mirrors and whatever else they had bolted to it. I ground the excess splatter off and put on a skim coat of bondo, then sanded it after a bit. It doesn't look half bad... it looks all bad.
I worked a nasty crease dent out of the bottom of the drivers door it was a chore. I'll weld the holes up in it in a day or so.
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 05/19/20201:46 PM.
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May 18, 2020. Very little progress was made today (again), Mrs. Rod wanted to go for a drive. We took a wrong turn and found a very nice road that is less traveled.
I did a little more work on the front doors. The passenger sidevwill be ready for final sanding soon. Then welded in the extra holes in the right front fender.
I am looking at my left front fender (67) that does not have a place for the side marker light. I have a beat up fender that I am thinking about cutting up for patches. I'll check in the body shop first tho.
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 05/19/20201:44 PM.
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May 19-20, 2020. I managed to get a little bit done these past two days. The 19th was pretty hot and I got up early to change parts into cash! The 20th, I fired up the welder and filled in several holes in the drivers door. I hung the passenger door. Now it's time for a refresher on how to properly align the body panels! I gave up a chunk of skin today when my socket slipped off a bolt.
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 05/21/20203:34 AM.
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Blood, sweat and tears (or Beers???). Your making progress.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
May 21-22, 2020. I spent a bit of time sanding out a few hundred little nicks in my paint. I'm not sure what caused them? Maybe dust storms? They are all over the sheet metal and are about 1/16th of an inch mostly. I've been trying to get the lower part of my doors perfect, which will never happen. I'm going to "rino line" everything below the lower body line anyway. I'll eventually get a set of the costly chrome trim that goes along that line to hide the line between the rino and regular paint.
I finally quit putting off checking out my "no start" condition. I used a fancy troubleshooting guide from autozone's web site. I must have smoked the electronic widget that is under the timing advance mechanism. I also needed a new cap and rotor. I decided to buy a complete replacement distributor from autozone ($135) with a lifetime warranty. The cap and rotor were $35 alone. I didn't price the electronic module. At any rate, it fired right up (after I connected the power wire).
The grill is about half painted, nice an shiny white.
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 05/23/20204:09 AM.
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Good progress, keep it up! You are getting there and it will look great when complete. I appreciated your suggestion for the clear containers. I am getting more and more parts off the truck and am struggling to keep them organized. I think I will put your tips to good use.
I may be too late for the poll but I like the heavy Aluminum covers.
Steve
1946 Chev 1/2 ton - 6V/+ground/Bias-ply original - shake/Rattle and Roll! (SOLD) 1940 Chev 1/2 ton Franken/Restomod
Very few Beers these daze Tuts, but I do sip a hard cider now and again. Thanks Steve, I ended up painting the tin valve covers and slapping them on for the time being.
May 23-24, 2020. I got very little accomplished on Saturday since Mrs. Rod made me buy 9 skinny trees and also plant them! I did manage to do a bit of sanding and re-attached the left front wheel house to the fender. Saturday evening sunset to get me into relax mode.
Sunday, I adjusted the drivers door as well as I could by myself (I'll re-do it when I have more hands). The left front fender is mostly attached. I need to loosen the radiator support (99% sure I'll be moving the radiator too) so that I can adjust the front fenders a bit better.
I fooled around with the dash some as well. I installed the steering column (twice--- since I neglected to install a new seal). It was a chore trying to figure out how everything fit. It got a bit easier once I found that I had more parts than is required. Apparently, there are at least two different mount styles and I have both of them. I put in the new "cigarette" lighter and let some of the smoke out when I tried to check if it worked. That is something I need to explore a bit more later on... I left it unplugged.
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 05/25/20203:36 AM.
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May 25, 2020. I was able to move the 'burb under its own power again. I drove it around the block 3 times, which was more than enough. I has "armstrong" steering on it! Maybe I should have checked the air pressure?
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 05/26/20202:57 AM.
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Exciting progress! I am jealous. Mine has 235 85 16 tires. Not bad to steer as long as they're above 30psi rolling. Very difficult when stationary. I've even tried them ~10psi on the dirt... definitely needs to be rolling then, but rides like a Cadillac! It's part of the complete driving experience! No holiness in power steering.
May 26-29, 2020. Progress has slowed again due to conflicting tasks. Apparently, yard work is more important than truck work!
I dropped in to the local wrecking yard to see what was left of the 69 K20 pickup, it's been crushed (RIP). I found an 85 K10 Blazer with a nice hefty sway bar. I scored that for $20, plus a few other odds and ends.
May 29, 2020. I found that I needed the front cross member from the 85 Blazer. I had an opportunity to grab it whilst Mrs. Rod was taking one of our cats to get chemo. I got the cross member out pretty quickly. I noticed not one but TWO 72 Vega's right down the aisle, along with a 65 Corvair. I scored some somewhat clean parts that I hope to sell for a little profit (i.e. truck money).
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 06/05/20203:48 AM.
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May 30-June 4, 2020. I have been messing with the 2000 Suburban seats. They are electric, so I had to jury-rig some temporary power to them. For some reason, my first attempt was a bust. I quit, went inside for dinner, then checked the googler and found out that I was "doing it right". I went out the next morning, tried it again and they worked just fine??
I spent a couple days getting the front seats set in "just right" and another day trying to get the second row seats to fit. The seats didn't have enough room to fold up properly. A bit of sawzall'ing and I got the extra inch I needed. I need to drill holes and reinforce the floor so that when I do a panic stop, the seats will stay in place! The back seat belts also need to be mounted to the side of the body as well.
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 07/07/20203:45 AM.
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July 6, 2020. I have not been getting my 15 minutes a day in recently. Too many other "more important" projects. Of note is the 2003 Jeff Gordon Monte Carlo that is currently leaking oil all over my floor.
I have been sanding the grill and grill inserts for a few minutes here and there, so it is almost ready to go back on the truck.
I did manage to spend a couple of hours messing with the passenger side wing window. I have new rubber and felt to install. I need to find the driver side and get it apart, cleaned and painted so I don't have to wait for the paint to dry to put it back together.
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July 7, 2020. I tackled the passenger side vent window assembly. I got it pretty much together and was feeling pretty good about it, until I noticed that there was an extra part hanging on the side of the truck. I got more practice removing rivets that I didn't need. I was having problems getting the rubber to fit into the bottom corner of the frame, I used a couple shots of wd40 and it slipped right into the track. I also had issues installing the last rivet, as there is not much room to work with, I found that by pushing the frame to one side, it is possible the install that rivet --- an extra set of hands would be great here.
Steps to put a vent window together. 1. Gather all the parts. (ClassicParts.com has all the needed parts). 2. Put the cover over the Division Bar (this is the piece I found after I put most of the window together). 3. Install the main rubber seal. The long end fits through the frame end between the last two rivets. 4. Install the vertical post strip with 4 rivets through the division bar and cover. 3a & 4a The ends of the main rubber seal fit under the ends for the vertical post strip. 5. After ensuring the the main rubber seal is completely installed, put in the last two rivets. 6. Insert the vent window into the frame, paying attention to the order and placement of the washers. (I also locked the window closed). 7. Install the remainder of washers, spring, lock washer and nut. Bend the tabs of the lock washer over the nut.
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 07/20/20204:10 AM.
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July 18, 2020. I finally found time to put the passenger door back together (mostly). Apparently, I should have documented the steps to removing all the components, as it seems like one cannot just put it back together willy nilly. First, I installed the wing window assembly and placed the window glass inside the door. I installed the rear glass channel bar. I loosely installed the door glass channel felt. Then I spent an hour looking for the locking mechanism, window riser components ect. They were in the box marked "door parts" that was sitting on my tailgate. I installed the door lock after a feeble attempt at cleaning off the paint. Then I removed the same parts, since the locking mechanism did not seem to be operating, because I was pulling on it, instead of pushing on it. I reinstalled the door handle mechanism (that I previously replaced the worn mechanism on). I reinstalled the window riser. This was a long hard fought struggle. I ended up removing all the screws for the window riser, then installing the top arm roller first. The lower front roller second and then the lower rear roller went in fairly easily. The window was another struggle. I had to re-remove the vent window mounting screws and the rear glass channel bar. Once everything was loose, the window glass pretty much slipped into place. I adjusted the door glass channel, replace the vent window mounting hardware, window riser screws and the rear channel holder screws.
The window rolls up and down like it was new. The door closes very nicely even though it is not perfectly adjusted.
I also preinstalled the right side mirror mount inside the door. I'll need to hog out the holes in the door a smidgen before I put the mirror on though.
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 07/20/20204:28 AM.
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July 19, 2020. I got started on the drivers door vent window. I tore it down, cleaned and prepped everything for paint.
I got tired of tip-toeing around my grill, so I put it back together, then loosely installed it in place. I tracked down the front turn signal housings (amazingly they were in a box marked with "turn signals"), I only looked in that box twice before I dug deep enough to find them. After I got them installed, I had to remove them to ensure that they had a clean ground path. One must know that the electrical connection between the 67 and 68's are different! The 68 set was in much better condition than the 67 set, but the spade connectors on the 67 are in a "V" configuration, while the 68's are set at a 90 degree angle.
I'll need to loosen the radiator support and fenders to get it all properly aligned.
I installed the headlights with new adjustment screws and some nice stainless screws that I found in my magic bolt box for the headlight retainers. I turned on the headlights and nada, nothing. grr. The battery was dead (something is draining it and I borrowed the extension cord for the battery maintainer). I put the charger on the battery, still no headlights.... of course, it helps to plug them in.
The headlights, tail lights, brake lights and turn signals all work properly.
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 07/20/20204:40 AM.
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Lights are nice, I worked with an old man who changed every bulb on the truck twice before I pointed out that he didn't have the battery connected... Amazingly I was the A**H**E for pointing it out. Lot's of hard work on the small stuff, looking great.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
You’re getting lots of experience putting parts on and taking them off. Just look at all the fun your having.ðŸ˜
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
August 29, 2020. OMG. Life has been getting in the way of progress. I've been spending my time getting my "office" set up for the upcoming school semester. And scanning documents that I don't need a hard copy of... I have a lot of CYA paperwork to scan, file and put on a DVD.
I still try to get into the shop daily for a few minutes and at least drag some sandpaper across something that needs to be sanded.
I've been ready to finish putting the drivers door back together for quite a while, but keep finding areas that need to be sanded and primed. I shanghai'd my son in law to help put the hood back on as well, it still needs to be properly adjusted and the latch needs to be reinstalled.
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!