The Stovebolt Site Forums Project Journals Project Journals 1952 Chevrolet 3100 Project

Wow! Very nice look with all the chrome against the red.

Thanks!

8/15/24: I got my old tires swapped to new artillery rims and RNR Wheel and Tire said they couldn’t balance two of the tire/rims I brought to them. After posting this issue, I don’t think they tried too hard. More on that later.

I also took my front clip parts to a local sandblaster and picked them up this afternoon. I setup up a 10’ x 20’ canopy to hang the body parts under and apply some epoxy prime, just in case we had some rain. Lately, we’ve had thunderstorms roll in nearly every day. Although I didn’t get home until about 3pm with the parts, I did manage to get 2 coats on before it got dark. Initially frustrated with my cheap HD HVLP gun, after cleaning the plugged vent in the cap, it performed flawlessly. Once cleared, it was clear sailing.

These parts are going into a storage unit I’m renting, simply to give me some room to work on the cab. Once I get the cab squared away and into prime, I’ll bring them back to work on. In the meantime they are clean and protected. Next it’s on to the bed, disassemble/sandblast/prime then they’ll go to storage. I need to get all these parts in epoxy before the temperature dips below 60°, which is right around the corner.

All in all, I happy with the way they came out.

Looking sharp!!! Did you ever get your balance issue fixed?

No, armed with new info from our own ‘Bolters, I plan on calling RNR and asking if they tried rotating the tires 180° and rebalancing. I suspect that they didn’t. They charged me $150 to remove four tires from my existing rims then mount and balance them on my new ones. I think they could at least try again, at no charge. If they don’t agree, I'll give them a negative review and move it up the management ladder.

8/20/24 Over the last week, I’ve been disassembling the bed to get it sandblasted and apply epoxy prime. The process was slow so I didn’t cause any more damage. I was able to save all of the clutch head screws that attach the fenders and the rod that connects the two sides with the front panel by heating the nuts then dousing with PB Blaster. A few do have some vice grip teeth marks, that that I’ll be able to remove on my lathe with a file. The rest of the hardware doesn’t matter since they were all standard nuts and bolts.

Overall the bed is in pretty good shape. The driver and passenger fenders has a bit of rot on the lower front that needs attention. It could be fixed but I think a patch panel would ultimately speed up the repair. A few of the issues on the passengers side were structural so I made them prior to sending the fender to the sandblasters. It needed a small patch on the flange in the center of the wheel well, allot of hammer and dolly work to work out the dents that were covered with a 1/4” of Bondo and a bit of weld repair on the very back lower flange section.

The front panel is completely gone below the floor and although I could repair it, I question whether I should just replace it to save time. All of the crossmember bed supports are shot, including the rear. A fellow ‘Bolter graciously gave me another rear in rusty but decent shape so I’m good to go there.

Both bed sides look pretty good too. Pretty straight with minimal rust where the fenders bolt on and just a few holes from where a few of the angle spot rivets ripped thru, when I took it off. The rear stake pockets will need attention.

Next step is to take them to the sandblaster’s, prime then storage.

9/07/24 Before taking the bed parts to the sandblaster, I decided to do some of the rust repair, so once epoxy primer is applied, they will be ready for Bondo. I started by taking the stake pockets off to treat the rust forming under them. I did a few patches on the bed sides to remediate the rusted thru spots. All the stake pockets can all be reused, but the rear drivers side needed a bit of repair. A previous repair was covered over with Bondo to cover up a really poor welding job. With the pocket removed, I was able to restore it back to sound metal.

9/17/24 Last week I picked up the bed parts from the sand blaster and sprayed them with epoxy primer.

My job today was to reattach the stake pockets back on the bed sides. The blasting revealed another rust hole under one of the stake pockets. I clamped a piece of copper under it, then welded it back to solid metal. Once that repair was made, I plug welded the stake pocket back on. The next three went on with no issues. Once I ground the welds flat and sanded the surrounding area, I used a paint brush to reapply epoxy primer to the exposed metal.

Some nice work on your repairs Phil...

I resemble that remark, Phil. LOL!

Your work looks good and sure brings back some memories. Kind of satisfying to be able to make repairs like that.

Now that’s some high quality work! Unlike those who would just bondo over to hide it.

9/18/24 Thanks all for your kind words! The are a few pin holes on those bed sides that may see a bit of JB weld!

I moved all of the bed parts into storage as I want to strip the cab and get it into epoxy prime before the weather turns and it gets too cold.

I removed the glass in preparation of stripping the cab. I was concerned with what appeared to be rust under the rubber. To my surprise, it turned out to be only surface rust with no metal work. I took the truck off of the jack stands so I can push it outside to strip, keeping the mess out of my garage.

Hopefully I can get it stripped and in prime before it gets too cold. This way I can finish the Bondo work during the fall.

9/28/24 I’ve been stripping the cab in preparation of applying epoxy primer. I have an Eastwood Surface Conditioning tool with stripping drums and it’s working great, but going real slow (3 days and counting). In addition, I bought 4-1/2” stripping disks for my side grinder and 3” stripping disks for my 90° die grinder to help with the smaller sections the drum couldn’t reach. I’ve removed a few dents along the way and discovered a bigger concern, additional rust found under the paint on the roof. The rust is surface rust with some pock marks the drum just won’t take out. I would use a rust treatment, but it isn’t compatible with the epoxy primer.

I have a portable sand blaster that I have been using to get into the deepest of the pock marks but l would spend days getting it all. By that time I would have flash rust all over the truck.

My thoughts are to get as much of the rust out that I can and hopefully the epoxy will seal the moisture out stopping any additional rusting. I’m going to grind the affected areas with a 36 grit disk to give the epoxy some tooth to grip on.

The weather has been good with most days near 70° but I can’t count on that lasting much more. I need to get the epoxy primer on ASAP.

Looking good. In Canada the evapo rust stuff is expensive but I use citric acid that takes the rust off pretty good, for areas like yours you can soak whatever you choose with a paper towel or rag keeping it wet and cover with the wet towel over the areas and it should clean it up .might be worth a try but it does take time

9/30/24 today I applied 2 coats of epoxy primer to the exterior cab. It took me 5 days to get it to that point. At one point, I felt like the rust was coming back quicker than I was eliminating it so I decided to stop stripping the interior and just concentrate on the exterior. To get the last of the rust in the pits, I used a twisted wire wheel in my side grinder, followed by a handheld sand blaster in the deeper areas, then I went over the areas with a 36 grit sanding disc to give the epoxy some tooth to hang on to. Hopefully the epoxy will seal in any microscopic rust left.

I am so glad I had the other body parts (fenders, hood, Bed) sandblasted. It made applying the epoxy so much easier. I couldn’t imagine how long it would have taken to manually strip those parts.

I still need to finish stripping the interior and the two doors. I am thrilled this is done and I’m real happy with the results.

That’s a huge job behind you Phil. Congratulations

Looks good, Phil.

Speaking from experience, be sure you get enough thickness on the primer so that you get all the pits filled. You don't want the finish coat showing those pits.

Thanks Paul for the encouragement!

Kevin, I was planning to fill the cavities with Bondo or spot putty so I wasn’t too worried about the cavities. I’m using Eastwood epoxy primer and so far I really like it. Two medium wet coats with a 30 minute re-coat time. I applied it with 25 lbs. of pressure and it went on really smooth.

10/02/24 I got the passenger door in prime today. It took a couple if days to get it disassembled, stripped, straighten a couple of dents, filled, sanded then applied the epoxy prime. Stripping sucks!

One down, one to go!

10/04/24 I got the drivers door in prime today. The door is unbelievably straight. Although I had previously replaced about 2” on the bottom inside of the door, I expected to find some areas with Bondo or rust but but was pleasantly surprised to find a nearly perfect door.

I just have the interior left to do and the entire truck will be in epoxy prime.

Did I mention, stripping sucks!

I know only too well! The few times I forgot to use a respirator, I had black snot disease for a few days.

10/06/24 Today is a momental day in this trucks restoration. All parts have been stripped and are now in epoxy prime. Stripping the interior was an exercise in aerobics, placing my body in positions it hasn’t been in years or for that matter ever. Subsequently, I’m aching in places I didn’t know could hurt. Not so bad that a couple of Advil and of course a beer (or two) to wash it down can’t remediate. I am ecstatic that this part is done!

I am pleased with the results.

Looks good and perfect timing the weather is about to change not many warm calm days left .

Thanks Kevin! The weather has definitely been kind to me. I’ll have to turn my attention to getting the house/yard ready for winter before I can get back to working on the truck, but my goal of getting her in prime was accomplished. I’m grateful for that!

Nice Job Phak1!

Just catching up on posts. Weather looks like we have at least one more good week. Better get busy!!!

Phil, your miles ahead of me on your project. Some great work!

Thanks for your kind words! Still a long way to go but making progress.

In all fairness Craig, you have three trucks and a garage your working on. Keep at it and you'll get there too!

I was wondering if you were able to get the situation fixed with your wheels? I just disassembled the front end on Baby Blue this week and took the front axle to the machine shop to have the kingpins replaced. Once I get it back, and the weather permits, I am going to start with the disc brake conversion so I will be needing wheels soon as well.

I didn’t resolve the issue with RNR tires but I did a runout on all four rims from WheelSmith and they were all within their specs so I’m sure it was not the issue. Thinking back, a couple of years ago, I had the same tires balanced on the old rims (8x15”) by a local garage and they also had an issue balancing one of the tires, but were able to get it done, so the issue is with the tire and RNR.

The rims from WheelSmith fit perfect with plenty of clearance for the caliper. They are 15” x 6” with 3-1/4” backspace which I believe is their standard backspace for that size.

I bought their Artillery rims but their smoothies (similar to OEM) use the same outer rim so the fit will be the same. They also sell the center cap and beauty rings to fit and they are really nice.

You said the issue you think is with the tire. Do you mean the brand or the size? Just wanting to make sure so I can bypass the same problem. I plan on contacting wheel smith to get the same wheels that you bought. They are sharp!

The issue is with RNR tire not taking the time to rotate the tire on the rim. These tires were balanced previously by a local garage because they knew what they were doing.

I say go for it!

11/21/24 I started the body work (Bondo), and so far I got the right/left/top cowls, the dashboard and lower windshield posts in prime. I bought a couple cans of urethane high build primer and per my autobody supply guy, I can use it both over and under epoxy prime. My plan is to sand the epoxy with 80 grit paper, apply and smooth the Bondo then prime the repaired areas with three coats of primer. In the spring, I’ll block sand the entire cab, then apply another coat of epoxy as a sealer. Making progress.

11/23/24 Over the last couple days, I’ve been working on the roof. I didn’t realize what a vast piece of real estate it is and how much time it would take. First spending several hours working out minor dents with a hammer and dolly, only to find allot more than I originally seen. Reaching the center of the roof with the hammer and dolly really difficult, but I did manage to straighten it sufficiently that only a skim coat of filler was necessary. With all of the pock marks from rust, I needed a skim coat on the entire roof anyway.

Sanding the roof with a durablock and 60 grit paper to knock it down was brutal on the arms. Sand a couple of minutes, rest another. I question my sanity as you can’t really see the top of the roof from the ground and my perfectionist trait was in full battle with “good enough, let’s just get it done”. It’s not perfect but I believe it’s pretty darn good.

I sprayed three coats of the high build urethane primer that I just bought, but I’m not happy with the results. It seems when you first start spraying it has a decent pattern but as the pressure in the can goes down, it doesn’t atomize as nicely. I had placed the cans in my house so the paint was at least 70° but maybe I should have heated them in warm water. Moving forward, I’ll buy urethane primer in the can, so I can use my gun. Thank goodness it’s just primer.

At any rate, The roof is done ready to be blocked out. Overall I’m happy with the results.

That looks really good Phil.
Be happy that you didn't have a bunch of oil-canning to get worked out like I did. I had my cab down on a roller pallet, so I just needed a short ladder to get up to it. It was still a lot of work.

Phil,
Looks great, and more important ready to paint! !!! I see from your pics you have cars covered in the back ground. Cleaning the garage is a real chore as well after all the stripping and sand. Mine was a mess. Still finding stuff when I go to grab something I haven't used in a a while.
I'm hoping to get in the shop today to finish my passenger side window vent assembly and get it installed.

Kevin: Thank God no oil canning, but I was thinking about your issues when I was working out the dents.

I have wood planks spanning the running boards and plywood on the frame behind the cab to help reach. I was also standing in the cab with my head and body sticking up thru both sides of the windshield. That was sufficient for doing the bodywork, but I have to seriously think about building scaffolding in order to successfully paint the roof of the cab.

Crummy: I still have the back of the cab to finish and all of the blocking to do before I can call it “ready for paint”. I’m still cleaning up from last year’s metal work, replacing panels. This year’s Bondo work adds another layer!

Fortunately, the weather has been cooperating and giving me warm enough days to apply the primer. I can get my garage up to 55° after a few hours with a kerosene heater which seems to be sufficient for drying the primer.

I love watching your progress. I'm nowhere close to body work so I guess this is what I get to look forward to. Awesome work...

Nice work. Like the truck.

Thanks 8man, I appreciate the compliment!

12/3/24: Now that thanksgiving is over, I got back to doing the bodywork on the back of the cab. Over the last three days, I finished the bodywork and sprayed three coats of urethane primer. Aside from the usual, apply Bondo, sand it off, tap down the high spots bring up the lows, apply more bondo and do the same a few more times, feather, etc. etc., I ran into two issues.

The first was the joint at the belt line. When I was sanding , I started to see a bit of rust poking thru. I decided to sand as much as I could then seal it in with JB Weld. I used my finger with a glove to squeeze it in the joint, then allowed it to dry before smoothing it out. I used a propane heater aimed at the back of the cab to warm things up a bit in addition to the kerosene heater I normally use to help the epoxy and primer to cure. I bought 6 minute epoxy (setting time), but it still took about 6 hours to fully cure.

The second issue was my Husky HVLP gun refused to cooperate and I couldn’t get any volume to come out of the gun. It acted like the primer wasn’t thin enough. After several attempts, I bought out my better gun, an Eastman Contours II and changed the tip to a 1.7, and that worked much better. I’ve never sprayed 2K urethane primer before and I’m thinking the tip on the HUSKY might be too small. It’s not marked and I have no clue how to measure it. Once I got going, the primer went on a bit bumpy like it was sprayed too dry, but leveled out nicely.

The cab is ready to be blocked out this spring. On to the doors!