The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Brake bleeding

I was reading, internet browsing or some thing and I think I remember seeing where you could keep the master cylinder full and of course start in the correct order and loosen the fitting on the wheel cylinder and let it bleed out till all the air was out and go to the next. I bought one of the self bleeders but have not had any luck with it. My helpers, wife and daughter have not been available to help for quite some time. Anyone ever done this?

Are you talking about the replacement bleeder nipples that have the little spring loaded ball inside? Sometimes those work, and sometimes they don't... if that's what you are referring to,

I have read several accounts where people take grease and apply it around the base of those bleeders to keep air from being sucked back in through the threads, while bleeding the brakes. I haven't tried this method yet.

Perhaps you need to bleed your master cylinder again, if you're not getting fluid at the wheel cylinders?

You can, but not the most environmentally friendly solution, fill the master cylinder with fresh fluid and open all 4 bleeders. Monitor the fluid level, never letting it get low. When you see fluid coming from all 4 bleeders close them. It’s messy but does work. One problem is it can take several hours for fluid to work all the way through the lines and you will get bored and walk away, opening the opportunity for the M/C to run dry. 🛠

Thank you both for the reply. I knew I reaad it or saw it or something. Dave, what an amazing job you are doing on the 50. Remember it's old like me. That is the year I was born. 67 years old. Nice job.

Thanks Red. I hope to finish it this summer when I get a break from night school. Your '49 looks great in Red- hopefully the brakes will get sorted out soon.

That gravity method will only work when the master cyl. is up on the firewall. These older trucks have the master cyl. on the frame & the fluid will not flow up to the wheel cyls.

Good point George. Thanks

This is my low tech, when working alone technique; start with a full master cylinder then go to the furthest brake (right rear), loosen the bleeder and slip a piece of rubber or plastic tubing over the bleeder, place the open end of the tubing in a bottle or jar that has a small amount of brake fluid in the bottom (make sure the open end of the tube is covered). Then pump away on the brake peddle with occasional checks to make sure the master cylinder doesn't run dry. When clean fluid comes out (you can tell with frequent checks of the clear container) move to the next furthest away wheel and repeat.

The advantages to this method are; 1. usually zero cost over the brake fluid, 2. can do by yourself, 3. the old fluid is forced out under pressure which will flush out the old accumulated crud, gravity flushing won't.

And no, you don't introduce air into the system this way.

Good Luck, Ron

Good technique, Ron

so I'm taking these are not done the same way as my 69 nova drum brakes where the two person method of pumping up and then releasing the pressure?

That way works as well. Have the helper mash the brake pedal, open and close the bleeder, then release pedal and repeat.

dairdvl, just a discussion on the different ways to bleed brakes. Choose what works for you.🛠

Its raining too hard for me to go look at whether the master cylinder is below my wheel cylinders or not on the naked frame beside my garage, but I have gotten frustrated in getting all the air out and just left the stupid thing for a day or two, and sure enough the air escaped somehow. I am guessing it found its way to the master cylinder. I don't know if it can travel all the way from the wheel cylinders or not.

Haven't tried it but a friend with under floor m/c said he jacked up the front of his truck and let the two back ones drain ...and then jacked the back up to let the front ones self bled. Said it worked for him?!

Well I was having trouble the regular way. I filled the master cylinder up, left the top off, jacked up the left back and removed the wheel. Next I put another jack under the left front jacked it up and lowered the back down as far as I could. This put the MC up higher than the back wheel cylinder. I opened the valve on the wheel cylinder and waited and waited. Nothing. So this is what I did. I put a tygon tube on the valve put the other end in a jar with enough brake fluid to cover the end of it. Went to the brake pedal and slowly pushed the pedal down three times. You can see the fluid go down in the MC. Topped it back off and looked at the jar. The tube now had some fluid in it and very slowly you could see the bubbles come out. I waited till no bubbles came out. Shut the valve out, removed the tube and jar, jacked the truck back up and put the tire back on. Leave the back jacked up, remove the left front tire and lower the front down to get it below the MC. Repeat the process. You need to remember this is a slowly process so just take your time. To be honest I didn't think much about this way to bleed brakes. After going all the way through each wheel, made sure the MC was full put the cap back on pushed the pedal and to my surprise I had the best pedal I've had on the truck. Checked it the next day, same thing, great pedal. Just remember to very slowly push the pedal down and slowly release it. If go to fast you will have a face full of fluid! I was thinking the fluid would just rush out but not so. You'll get some fluid and air but it is slow. Clean up your shop or something while you wait. To me it's worth the trouble. Any question just post and I'll get back to you as soon as I can. This works!

I used the technique mopar guy mentioned. It worked really well. Just use a clear tubing so you can see the bubbles and make sure the end of the tube stays submerged in the fluid at the bottom of the bottle.