The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop 1950 3100 chevy and a donor 84 c10

Base of tank should have pipe threads. If one cuts the steering mast, the bottom of the mast needs to be adequately supported.

Ed

I've seen a couple of local examples of modified columns. One was from a c10, looked like mine but in a 53 instead of a 50. Took some pics, didn't look bad. Saw a cut and supported factory one too. Shifter on floor though, but shows how he supported it at the firewall.

I'm guess flaky stuff in tank is either old sealer or just stuff that sat. Can I reseal it on the inside of just keep it bare metal. I'm seeing very mixed results on this.

The crud flaking on the inside of the tank is probably an accumulation of old fuel deposits. Ethanol blend of fuel will break this stuff down and it reeks havoc on everything downstream of the tank. When the regular leaded gas was used back in the day, all of that stuff stayed put on the side of the tank.

I had some paint thinner left over. Not much. But thought I'd slosh it around with some loose nuts and bolts. Talk about making a lot of noise shaking that around lol but it's cleaning up real nice, I was real worried about rust in the bottom of it.

Should I put a sealer or just go bare metal? Local parts place has red kote...ive never sealed the inside of a tank.

If you have a sizeable tractor available to you, you can add some 1/4" nuts and washers (easier to retrieve with a magnet after you are done) and strap the tank to the side of the tall tire and go for a spin until the crud is knocked loose. I have never sealed a tank before. If rust is so significant that removal of the rust and subsequent sealing is necessary, you would be money ahead to buy a new tank. If your tank isn't significantly rusty, you don't need sealant.
Carl

Not very rusty at all. I just thought the flaky stuff was a sealer coming off and I needed to replace it. Where it's flaking it's nice clean metal.

So i ordered the engine universal tubular crossmember and mounts, I got a little money from selling the old 235. Hopefully Monday the cab floor will finally be done. I have a welding buddy teaching me basics and double ching my work. OInce cab is done the IFS can go in and thats wjen i want to do engine and trans. So i bought a load leveler so as to lift both engine and trans hoping this will make install for both better and I hope the leveler means I can leave distributor on so I can see my firewall clearance.

Anyways I have been reading various v8 swap builds and I want to make sure I have my facts straight. I'm installing a 350/350 combo. I need to go back just far enough so there is still room to pull distributor. The old motor crossmember comes out...and the tubular one will go in. The trans crossmember needs to be removed and placed under the frame.

I am unfortunately doing this outside in the dirt. I'm thinking that when I'm ready to install the engine and trans that I need to level the truck. That or put a level on truck and one on engine when installed. I'm thinking just leveling the truck will be easier or better.

When I set the crossmember locations, I need to do so by putting a level on my carburetor and mount the engine with the carburetor level correct? Will this also make my trans pan level?

Im concerned with putting everything in so I get good fuel, good oil flow, good trans oil flow, and be able to set pinion angle. I'm not 100% clear on how far off I can get without issues.

Old pieces of carpet are handy to lay on dirt or mud or snow.

Ed

Lol I'm using some. As well as a couple of tarps, some old pieces of plywood...got thick overalls..

My biggest regret with this house is a lack of a shop. I thought I'd get one before my next project but I couldn't pass this one up.

Costco has 10 by 20 foot shelters that are reasonably priced, unfortunately they use synthetic thread so they only last 3 years or so here, in your part of the country they should last longer. Worked well for several years.

Ed

I got my front suspension in. I did my own measurements and I got all the same measurements as Andereggen did in his write up. Had front clip on and got it nice and centered. I've seen two other trucks with this set up. One had tires stick out a tad. Other guy used 16x5 rims and small tires and it sucked in real nice. Actually looked factoryish. Which was his goal.

Ordered stuff for rear leafsprings. Shackles, bushings, eye bolts, and perches to mount my 10 bolt axle. Hopefully this week I'll have rear done.