The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Langdons intake heater plate

Langdons intake heater looks simple enough. Looks like water runs through and when the water heats up the intake heats up.anyone using one? I put headers on my 68 c-10.a
And it is extremely cold blooded. Hoping this will help it warm up faster. No info on where it attaches and I can't tell by looking at it. Can't get anyone from langdons to return my call. Anyone else have them for sale? Thanks for any and all help.

Ford used the water heated carb base plates for years, both 2bbl and 4bbl.

Here is an alternative from Patrick's its not water but uses exhaust heat....http://www.patricksantiquecars.com/custom-antique-cars-trucks-auto-parts.html

Water or heated air does not "flow through" (from side to side) many intake manifolds - the heat is on transferred through contact at the middle base of many intake manifolds.

That being the case, only one line is needed and, I guess, that coolant-water/exhaust-air are just as good - with exhaust air being (1) safer if it leaks, and (2) quicker with exhaust air providing immediate warming of the base of the intake manifold.

If you have a Clifford/Offenhauser manifold or other manifold that flows from side to side, and the inflow and outflow ports are separated, use a two-port/tube heating plate (and seal it).

gospel1 :
- what type of intake manifold will you be using?
- good luck finding a 2-port "heat plate" (maybe some will post a link)

If you buy from Patrick's, be sure to inform him that you do not want to order unless it is in stock. Use a charge card; and, cancel payment if you do not receive the plate within a week.

You need 2 lines for water or it will not work at all. Exhaust gas you can get away with one.

when the water heats up

It doesn't heat the water up.

It seems to me you want to put heat to the intake manifold at startup on very cold mornings and not necessarily after the water is hot. I've started my '48 at 25 below zero after 4 hours of frost plug heater under the manifold. It jumps to life and runs smooth right off the bat.

And once it's warmed up, it still runs great.

I found a Carter YF 2100S at a local junkyard once. It was sitting on water heated box which I stupidly left behind. I wouldn't have installed it on my '48 but it would have made a nice conversation piece.

In most cases (with most intakes/carburetors), you will need some heat to the intake manifold at all operating temperatures.

I've always thought that the intertwined manifolds of the Stovebolt engine result in the intake being heated by the exhaust. So I did a little measurement this morning (30 deg outside). (Forgive me; I like this kind of stuff.)

After driving around to get it fully warmed, I stopped and measured the manifolds with a remote temperature sensor.

Exhaust manifold at the 2nd port = 353 deg
Intake manifold at the carb = 184 deg (by chance ~same as my thermostat!)

So these accessories might be neat but they might not be necessary. I still wish I snagged that one at the junkyard.

I'm not hoping for 25 below to repeat the measurements!

Yes, and that is why the intake manifolds on an engine with separated intake/exhaust manifolds might need heat when warmed up.

For what it is worth: the 235 Corvette dual-exhaust manifold had a heat riser. And, early 216/235 Fentons allowed for the intake manifold to bolt to the right-side exhaust header (although, with no heat-riser "flap", as I dimly recall) .

the original manifolds don't necessarily need the heat flapper to work, as long as it isn't stuck in the "heat" position, that creates some really weird issues. I ran my truck for 20 years with the heat riser broken and had no idea I even had a problem. However the aluminum intakes used with fenton (or whatever sort of header you may use) needs heat of some sort. If you use water you need to have two lines, you need a constant flow through the heat plate area. of course it isn't going to heat the entire manifold, but it does heat it enough to make it run good. but if you only have one line that won't work at all.

With the fairly recent development of nickel-alloy MIG welding wire suitable for use on cast iron, it's possible to do a good job of building a real split manifold instead of using the overseas-made repops that don't fit. Then the original heat riser can be used instead of some Mickey Mouse aftermarket heat plate. Even a welder with mediocre skills can do an acceptable job of splitting the manifold with a MIG and a little time.
Jerry

Ditto here. Ran my '52 216 for years before I knew what that spring was for.
The thing is though, it took a lot of choke and a strong pull on the throttle cable to keep it running for quite a while after start up when it was cold out. Not the case after I freed it up and put on a new spring (especially after I put the spring on the right way ).

In regards to overseas repops- I bought a Fenton intake and Fenton exhaust, and both of them have issues, right out of the box....

The threaded stud holes for the flanges on the exhaust were drilled way off center, causing the exhaust pipe flange to be poorly aligned with the cast iron header.

My brand new water-heated Fenton intake is sucking water in from the heat plenum, causing steam vapor in the exhaust. I verified this by removing both water lines from the manifold and observing a vacuum in both lines. So, I certainly won't be running water heat anymore....

Not impressed with the Fenton manifolds at all....I'm guessing they weren't built this way back in the 50/60's?

Jerry, thanks for the update on nickel wire, I suppose we could also use it with Tig welding, if it is available in small enough amounts.

Ed

It's available in 2-lb. spools, both gas shielded and gasless flux-core. Not cheap, but pretty reasonable. Check Ebay or your local welding supply store. I think it would still be wise to pre-heat, peen, and post-heat a project, plus burying the welded part in sand for an overnight cool-down, but the welding part itself would be a lot simpler with a MIG. As always, practice on some scrap before you tackle the actual project. There are some cast iron TIG rods on Ebay, also.
Jerry

Oops, I did not see "I put headers on my 68 c-10.a".

Can you post a luik to the part at Langdon's?

What make/size/year engine?