The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Shop Construction Has Begun!

Lugnutz,

Thanks for the photos.

Watching your steps/progress will be educational and enjoyable.

Good job.

Any utilities need to go in before the concrete is poured? Or, at least, future provisions?

I will run a 2" PVC conduit through the concrete for electrical service. I not doing any plumbing since the shop is only 30 feet from the house. Some might want it, but I'd rather not worry about frozen or broken pipes.

Any electricians care to offer advice on wiring. The wall studs have 5' centers. The gable end studs might be closer than that. I'll need 220V for a compressor, the lift, a welder, possibly certain tools too. I really hate running drop cords all over the place. I'd rather have too many outlets.

I agree on more outlets. I have mine every 8 feet with 4 recepticals each and sometimes their all in use.

I understand the plumbing decision. If it were me I'd still add the rough ins because it it cheap to do now and preserves options later, if you change your mind.

One thing I considered and was encouraged to do, but didn't and now wish I had done was to put in a floor drain.

The contractor also suggested putting in a floor anchor to use if needed with a come along. I am glad I decided to do that as it has come in handy several times. He buried a 1/4 inch thick, 12 inch long piece of 4 inch on a side U shaped steel and ran some rebar through it. At about the center he predrilled for a 1/2 bolt to plug the hole during the pour. Later the bolt was removed and replaced with a bolt cut for a large standard screw driver that serves as a plug when the anchor isn't needed. It fits flush with the floor. When needed I use a 1/2 eye bolt threaded into the anchor to attach the come along.

I like your come along idea. While I understand the general idea, I'd like to see a few pictures. Can you share some on here? Or email them to me?
Thanks.

Congrats Jay. Seems a lot of folks are using T8 fluorescent tubes for shop lighting.

A little picky, but recently saw a farm shop that put the air lines in the slab to keep clutter off the walls. It was a big shop, but you could just plug your air line in like an electrical outlet. You may be able to get away with one big centered ceiling spool though in your case.

My shop is close to the house also. The only plumbing I wish I had was a little sink where I could wash my hands with the HD stuff when leaving.

If you can swing LED lights, definitely go for them. I put some LED bulbs in some standard 4' fluorescent fixtures in my garage and the difference is amazing.

Another option is to go with HP Sodium or Mercury vapor style light fixtures. You could get by with about half the number of fixtures than fluorescent and still get good coverage. You might talk with your electrical guy about it. The downside of them is they aren't "instant on"

As far as putting air lines in the slab - Don't do it. Condensation will be trapped at the low points, and it will muck up your air supply, and corrode the pipe. Your compressed air system needs to be pitched to drain points so you can drain any condensation out of it. Wall mounted pipe can serve dual purpose - carrying air and providing a spot to hang stuff.

Air Line Hookup - Metal Piping Information and Diagram TP Tools & Equipment Tech Tip

Download the diagram.

It eliminates condensation = lateral pipe are high up in the room. This scheme works very well.

Great ideas so far. Thanks.
I think I have the buried anchor for the come-along pictured in my head. It sounds like you used a 12" long piece of 4 inch channel steel that was a quarter inch thick. Sounds like it was laid along the rebar in a horizontal fashion and wired beneath some rebar. A large bolt that goes through the channel steel comes up through the center so the bolt head sticks up above the concrete.
Concrete dries. Bolt is removed revealing a small hole in the floor. When not in use, hole is plugged with a bolt that has a slot cut in the head so it can be turned in and out like a screw. Remove bolt. Insert large screw with an eye and use it to anchor a come along. That sounds like a nice idea.

I used these in our garage (22' X 47') and they work great. These put out more lumens than others the same size (4'). There are two separate banks of lights that are controlled with two switches instead of all lights being controlled by one switch. I would also suggest going with an oversize conduit to the garage - that way it's easier to make changes if needed.
Samantha

Sorry, but that link doesn't work.

Yes, that's the way It was done. I can take some photos in the morning. All they'll show though is the plug and then another with the eye bolt. Had I known the concept would be as useful as has been I likely would have put in some more. Not that I at least for now, have needed them, but ....

Another thing I thought about too late was to have pads poured with thicker concrete for the future car lift. Also, should have had a reinforced beam installed for a hoist. Since then, one has been installed but reinforcing the beam and having to use portable and adjustable posts for added beam support is a hassle.

This is the link. It worked for me in my post and your post. https://www.samsclub.com/sams/2pack-led-shop-light-sh445501q299/prod20952614.ip?xid=plp:product:1:1

The link probably works for you because you have a Sam's club account. I don't have an account and my computer does not automatically log me onto the link. It still doesn't work. Sorry.

Wash some hands, some parts, a truck...........

Worked for me.

Here's some info from the webpage.
Honeywell LED 4' Shop Lights (2-Pack Silver Finish)
by Honeywell | Item #: 465390 | Model #: SH445501Q299
They were $55 plus change for the two fixtures.
I got my led tubes from Costco for about $17 for a pair. They work in any old fluorescent fixture.

Each light provides 4500 lumens of bright white light and uses 42 watts. They were the brightest fixtures I found.
Samantha

Samantha,
My apologies. The link works just fine on my home computer. Yesterday, when using my smartphone, the link didn't work at all, and still doesn't.

Anyway, thanks for the info. The tips on here are great! Thanks for contributing.

When the wife and I move out to where we aren't restricted by neighbors, we plan on building a similar sized building. We saw something like this at the home and garden show and like the concept. Not sure of the price, but when concrete filled, it should be rather sturdy. And from what the guy was telling us, it's insulated quite well. We also saw some buildings that included a regular door, overhead door, and concrete work with rebar for about $25k. These were about the same size as what you got too. How much was yours if you don't mind saying?

I may be late as you may have poured the concrete, but I made floor pockets out of 4" galvinized rigid pipe couplings. I welded a 1/4" plate to both ends, had a buddy machine chain hook cross tee's in the top plate to accept 3/8" chain. Then welded 2 pieces of 12" long rebar to the sides. The pockets are flush and always available, just drop a chain in and go. I set (5) of them in a diamond pattern 5' apart from eachother that way I can straighten metal by chaining the ends while jacking the middle.

Also, don't forget the I install 20' of #6 bare solid copper wire in the concrete footer for your electric ground. Leave about 6' additional feet sticking out at your PVC conduit for the electrician to connect to the sub-panel.

Mike B

Mike B,
I like the idea with the chains. That idea will have to wait for someone else since they poured my shop slab today.

VIDEO LINK

Building a Shop - Website LINK

Jay

I'm glad you were able to open the link!
Samantha

Look'n good!

Did they seal the concrete for you? Some of the best sealers go on green concrete the day it's poured.

When you trench the electric from the house take a water line out as well. It's nice to have a water source close by even if it's only a yard hydrant installed next to the building (won't freeze in the winter).

Mike B

You might want to place an empty sleeve pipe under the walk before they pour for any future sprinkler or wires.

Yes, my concrete man had suggested that and the video shows where it is under the walk. The white vertical pipe is just a marker where it lives.

Video update - Make popcorn 'cause it's almost 5 minutes long.

Jay

Good idea to put the walkway to the house. MMMmmm, that may have been Ruth's idea unless you want to clean house. hehehe

Looks good Jay. I'll know where to find you from now on. Oh, you can call it the garage or shop but I call it "da man cave".