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Jan 21st, 2020
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 Shop Construction Has Begun!
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,932
OP
Shop Shark
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Fellow Bolters,
I received lots of good advice in the earlier thread. Garage - What should I build? .
Now you can follow along with the progress as the shop becomes a reality. LINK HERE - BUILDING A SHOP
Zoning in my residential area limits me to 600SF. So the shop will be 24' wide and 25' long and 12' at the eaves. The roof will have a 12/3 pitch. Smooth concrete floor and broom finish skirt.
I decided to have a tubular steel building erected. Lot's of companies sell the same building and to my surprise the quotes from each one were the same EXACT dollar amount. A crew will arrive and erect the building once the concrete has cured for 28 days.
I still need advice on lighting choices. I hope LED is affordable.
Insulation will probably be R-tech foam board (R = 7.7) for the walls and spray foam for the ceiling.
Keep the ideas coming!
This is exciting.
Last edited by Lugnutz; Sun Feb 05 2017 03:56 PM.
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Re: Shop Construction Has Begun!
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,870
ace skiver
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Lugnutz,
Thanks for the photos.
Watching your steps/progress will be educational and enjoyable.
Good job.
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Re: Shop Construction Has Begun!
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,840
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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Any utilities need to go in before the concrete is poured? Or, at least, future provisions?
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Re: Shop Construction Has Begun!
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,932
OP
Shop Shark
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Any utilities need to go in before the concrete is poured? Or, at least, future provisions? I will run a 2" PVC conduit through the concrete for electrical service. I not doing any plumbing since the shop is only 30 feet from the house. Some might want it, but I'd rather not worry about frozen or broken pipes. Any electricians care to offer advice on wiring. The wall studs have 5' centers. The gable end studs might be closer than that. I'll need 220V for a compressor, the lift, a welder, possibly certain tools too. I really hate running drop cords all over the place. I'd rather have too many outlets.
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Re: Shop Construction Has Begun!
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,038
Shop Shark
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I agree on more outlets. I have mine every 8 feet with 4 recepticals each and sometimes their all in use.
I understand the plumbing decision. If it were me I'd still add the rough ins because it it cheap to do now and preserves options later, if you change your mind.
One thing I considered and was encouraged to do, but didn't and now wish I had done was to put in a floor drain.
The contractor also suggested putting in a floor anchor to use if needed with a come along. I am glad I decided to do that as it has come in handy several times. He buried a 1/4 inch thick, 12 inch long piece of 4 inch on a side U shaped steel and ran some rebar through it. At about the center he predrilled for a 1/2 bolt to plug the hole during the pour. Later the bolt was removed and replaced with a bolt cut for a large standard screw driver that serves as a plug when the anchor isn't needed. It fits flush with the floor. When needed I use a 1/2 eye bolt threaded into the anchor to attach the come along.
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Re: Shop Construction Has Begun!
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,932
OP
Shop Shark
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I agree on more outlets. I have mine every 8 feet with 4 recepticals each and sometimes their all in use.
I understand the plumbing decision. If it were me I'd still add the rough ins because it it cheap to do now and preserves options later, if you change your mind.
One thing I considered and was encouraged to do, but didn't and now wish I had done was to put in a floor drain.
The contractor also suggested putting in a floor anchor to use if needed with a come along. I am glad I decided to do that as it has come in handy several times. He buried a 1/4 inch thick, 12 inch long piece of 4 inch on a side U shaped steel and ran some rebar through it. At about the center he predrilled for a 1/2 bolt to plug the hole during the pour. Later the bolt was removed and replaced with a bolt cut for a large standard screw driver that serves as a plug when the anchor isn't needed. It fits flush with the floor. When needed I use a 1/2 eye bolt threaded into the anchor to attach the come along. I like your come along idea. While I understand the general idea, I'd like to see a few pictures. Can you share some on here? Or email them to me? Thanks.
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Re: Shop Construction Has Begun!
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,469
Shop Shark
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Congrats Jay. Seems a lot of folks are using T8 fluorescent tubes for shop lighting.
A little picky, but recently saw a farm shop that put the air lines in the slab to keep clutter off the walls. It was a big shop, but you could just plug your air line in like an electrical outlet. You may be able to get away with one big centered ceiling spool though in your case.
My shop is close to the house also. The only plumbing I wish I had was a little sink where I could wash my hands with the HD stuff when leaving.
Allen
Yeah, well, that's just like, you know , your opinion, man - The Dude
1948 Chevy 3600 - goal Original restoration, Current Stage 1 - Disassembly and getting body in primer
1954 GMC 3100 goal Hot Rod, Current Stage 1 - Get body in primer
1931 Ford Model A 5 window Coupe - Old Skool Hot Rod
1945 Ford 2N Tractor - Runs great
1964 Ford 2000 Tractor - Use it every week
1974 Stingray Corvette
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Re: Shop Construction Has Begun!
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Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,285
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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If you can swing LED lights, definitely go for them. I put some LED bulbs in some standard 4' fluorescent fixtures in my garage and the difference is amazing. Another option is to go with HP Sodium or Mercury vapor style light fixtures. You could get by with about half the number of fixtures than fluorescent and still get good coverage. You might talk with your electrical guy about it. The downside of them is they aren't "instant on" As far as putting air lines in the slab - Don't do it. Condensation will be trapped at the low points, and it will muck up your air supply, and corrode the pipe. Your compressed air system needs to be pitched to drain points so you can drain any condensation out of it. Wall mounted pipe can serve dual purpose - carrying air and providing a spot to hang stuff. 
Kevin First car '29 Ford Special Coupe #2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [ flickr.com] Busting rust since the mid-60's
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Re: Shop Construction Has Begun!
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,870
ace skiver
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Air Line Hookup - Metal Piping Information and Diagram TP Tools & Equipment Tech Tip Download the diagram. It eliminates condensation = lateral pipe are high up in the room. This scheme works very well.
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Re: Shop Construction Has Begun!
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,932
OP
Shop Shark
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Great ideas so far. Thanks.
I think I have the buried anchor for the come-along pictured in my head. It sounds like you used a 12" long piece of 4 inch channel steel that was a quarter inch thick. Sounds like it was laid along the rebar in a horizontal fashion and wired beneath some rebar. A large bolt that goes through the channel steel comes up through the center so the bolt head sticks up above the concrete.
Concrete dries. Bolt is removed revealing a small hole in the floor. When not in use, hole is plugged with a bolt that has a slot cut in the head so it can be turned in and out like a screw. Remove bolt. Insert large screw with an eye and use it to anchor a come along. That sounds like a nice idea.
Last edited by Lugnutz; Sun Feb 05 2017 11:27 PM.
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