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#906804 Fri Dec 28 2012 11:58 AM
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 26
W
Wrench Fetcher
Hello all, I am new to the site and have been told that the truck I have is a Big Bolt! It's a 1949 4100. I have not run the vin through the vin buster yet but am planning to shortly. It's a pretty much complete truck and SHOULD be fairly easy to get running. I have read some posts here on some of the things I should do first to get it running. However, I'm looking for some advice. I know running and stopping are first any suggestions on other impartant aspects of getting it going? I'm looking for procedures or recommendations or maybe a check list to cover prior to trying to start a truck that has been sitting in a field for 8 years. Also, is there a spot on the site to find specifications for the 4100? Thanks for any advise.

Last edited by Wreckin' Ball; Fri Dec 28 2012 01:52 PM.

Wreckin' Ball

I'm gonna need a bigger hammer!!!
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 4,304
'Bolter
I'm sure the Big Bolt guys will be in here after dark to talk about the start up.

Maybe this will help with the specs you are looking for.

Peggy M


Peggy M
Bird's eye view is a bit different than the worm's ~~ and it ISN'T about food. wink
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 26
W
Wrench Fetcher
Peggy,I was looking a that web site when I saw your post. Thanks for the guidance. Looks like that information will come in handy soon.


Wreckin' Ball

I'm gonna need a bigger hammer!!!
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 586
M
Shop Shark
Congratulations!!! That's a beautiful truck, and you're sure to enjoy the process of getting it running again.

It ran 8 years ago, eh? you're bound to get advice across the spectrum, from "I'd tear the whole thing down before trying to turn it over", to "just throw a battery in her and see what happens!". You'll have to decide what level of "caution" you feel is appropriate, and what your budget (money AND time) allows.

Here's what I WOULD do (take it or leave it!):
Pull all six plugs, and examine them for obvious issues, ie: if one is completely oil-soaked, or fouled. If nothing jumps out, clean 'em up and set them aside. Put a few squirts of (Pick one:) engine oil; Marvel Mystery Oil; Engine tune up treatment in each cylinder. Replace the cleaned plugs.

Pull the top valve cover off. Look for obvious signs of problems with the rocker arms and push rods. If nothing jumps out, liberally squirt engine oil over the rockers and valve stems. Once the engine starts, it takes a minute or two for oil to get up top. Replace the valve cover.

Pop the cover off the distrubutor. See that there's nothing fouling the points. Hit 'em real quick with a touch of sand paper or a points file. Check the rotor and cap for carbon build-up, clean as necessary. Put a drop of oil on the distributor cam while you're at it. Replace the cap. Note that it IS indexed.

BTW, how do the plug wires feel? Are they brittle and stiff, and crackle when you flex them? If so, you're probably headed for a new set. If the local parts store can't run you're truck model, you can get a universal six-cylinder set, but I'd try hard to get the older style, solid-core wires.

Pull the battery and get it replaced, if you don't already have one to use. Clean the battery cables. WHile you're at it, clean the ground strap where it attaches to the frame. Usually, it helps just to loosen the bolt and nut holding it, then tighten them up again.

Did you check to be sure there's oil in the engine? Check the coolant level while you're at it.

It would be nice to confirm that the engine isn't locked up before putting juice to the starter. The EASIEST way, is with a hand starting crank. You probably don't have one (but it's worth checking behind the cab seat!). Some people are able to tension the fan belt with one hand, and pull the fan towards them with the other, and get the engine to turn a little. I've done this maybe twice successfully, out of like 20 attempts. If I don't have a crank, I pull the bottom cover from the flywheel off underneath, and use a pry bar on the flywheel teeth to lever the engine around. If it turns at all, in any direction, it's not locked up. Yay!

Finally, drain the old gas out of the tank. There's a pet-cock on the bottom of the tank I think - you'll want a pair of plyers. Put in 5 gallons of fresh gas. Pull the air filter off, and pour a tiny amount of gas down the carb. throat. Squirt some WD-40 or such on the throttle and choke linkages.

I'd maybe turn it over with the starter a little before turning on the ignition, to start getting oil flowing. Then, pump once or twice on the pedal, pull the choke, and give her a go!

Once she fires, don't over-rev her too hard, just what it takes to keep her going until she's warmed up. I'd put her in gear, move her forward a little, put it in reverse and move her back, and after she's run 10 or 15 minutes, shut her off.

Drain the oil and put in fresh. Drain the coolant and put in fresh. Then run her some more. Other issues will crop up, to be sure. But once it's running, it's a lot easier to stay motivated.

Good luck, and KEEP US POSTED!!! :-)

-Michael


Please type slow, as I can't read very fast.

1939 Chevy/Central Fire Engine
1941 Chevy/American Fire Engine
1950 Chevy/American Fire Engine
In the Gallery
More Photos in Me Gallery
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 270
G
Shop Shark
Hi

I would ad, it might be an idea to crack the oil drain plug just enough to see if any water comes out, you usually do not need to pull the plug all the way out.

6 volt systems are more touchy than 12 volt when it comes to the battery cable ends being clean and free of rust and corrosion.

Then with the spark-plugs out for cleaning and no water in the oil. And with a new battery and cleaned battery terminals, I'd hit the starter for about 10 seconds. Then verify that it spins over freely with no knocking noise. You could then hit the starter again to see if you get any oil pressure on the Oil pressure gauge. But no more than about 7 to 10 seconds each time waiting about 30 seconds between each time.

Good luck and happy trucking



Dance like no one is watching,
Sing like no one is listening,
Love like you've never been hurt.

1948 GMC FC101 1/2t Pickup w/270 and SM420
1948 GMC FC253 1t Factory 80"x9' Flatbed Dually
1948 Chevy COE 2 Ton 8'x15' Flatbed
1950 GMC 354-24 2 Ton 8'X12' Flatbed w/Dump Hoist
1953 GMC 454-30 3 Ton 8'x14' Flatbed w/Dump Hoist
1953 GMC 454-30 3 Ton Cab and Chassis
1942 Clarkator 6 MILL-44 Heavy Aircraft Tug
1942 Ford (9N) Moto Tug with 1/2 yard Loader
1947 Oliver OC3 HG-42 Tract-Crawler Bull Dozier w/6' Blade
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,848
B
'Bolter

Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 270
G
Shop Shark
It is Okay read for Chevy's, but lacking greatly for GMC.


Dance like no one is watching,
Sing like no one is listening,
Love like you've never been hurt.

1948 GMC FC101 1/2t Pickup w/270 and SM420
1948 GMC FC253 1t Factory 80"x9' Flatbed Dually
1948 Chevy COE 2 Ton 8'x15' Flatbed
1950 GMC 354-24 2 Ton 8'X12' Flatbed w/Dump Hoist
1953 GMC 454-30 3 Ton 8'x14' Flatbed w/Dump Hoist
1953 GMC 454-30 3 Ton Cab and Chassis
1942 Clarkator 6 MILL-44 Heavy Aircraft Tug
1942 Ford (9N) Moto Tug with 1/2 yard Loader
1947 Oliver OC3 HG-42 Tract-Crawler Bull Dozier w/6' Blade
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,848
B
'Bolter
Why don't you explore here then.
http://www.oldgmctrucks.com/

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 31,731
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Originally Posted by GMCPic
It is Okay read for Chevy's, but lacking greatly for GMC.
There's a lot of things that site is lacking in, but it is pretty good for its stated purpose: My comments are written with the '47-'55 1st Series (Advance Design) trucks in mind, but will generally apply to all pre-'60 trucks. It seems that the trucks in the light duty and medium duty ranges really diverge after that.

Maybe someone would be interested in doing a similar write-up for GMCs? I'd be interested in reading that, too.


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com [1954advance-design.com]
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban [stovebolt.com] - part of the family for 49 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic [1954advance-design.com] - part of the family for 15 years
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engines are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler. [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com]
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 4,304
'Bolter
Here, here! (Is that the right hear?) grin

We'd love to get more of the GMC details on the site. We are heavy on the Chevy side since that's where the information comes from. I know when we got one of the series tips done, we even ended with something to the affect: That's the Chevy side - anyone want to do the GMC side?

There are a few sites devoted to just GMC so at least there are a few places to go hunt. Having two GMC's ourselves, we have had to hunt ourselves.

BUT ... this looks like the makings of even a good tip on "how do I get started now" ... Let's keep this going and make this a helpful TT. We've lost our Tech Tip writer, and my helper with the Gallery additions. So, once I get the 1/1 Gallery additions done, I can get back into the big pictures.

Michael - thanks for the big write-up on the start-up! That will be a good basis for the TT.

Tim - keep fishing for those GMC helpers! smile

Cheers,
Peg


Peggy M
Bird's eye view is a bit different than the worm's ~~ and it ISN'T about food. wink
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