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#887061 - Fri Oct 05 2012 09:54 AM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: BLUEMEANIE]  
Kurt_51carryall  Offline
Shop Shark
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 889
Raleigh,NC
Yeah, the right size bit is critical. I got a nice set a few years ago, for the most part they fit snug, sometimes I have to tap them into the screw head.

Kurt



#887078 - Fri Oct 05 2012 11:05 AM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Kurt_51carryall]  
johntsmith  Offline
Shop Shark
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 783
Tampa Bay FL
When I strip out a clutch head I take a cutting wheel in my dremmel and CAREFULLY cut a slot into the top of the screw and then use a flat bladed screw driver. Same for rounded bolt heads and stripped phillip heads. Make sure your slot and blade are a snug fit.

In our garage we have a rule that clutch head screws can only be turned counter clock wise!

Last edited by johntsmith; Fri Oct 05 2012 11:07 AM.

My Fleet:
1941
1953
1959
1965
1966
1953 Willy's Pickup

John

Vegetarian- old Indian word for bad hunter

#887087 - Fri Oct 05 2012 11:27 AM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Midpiner]  
Kurt_51carryall  Offline
Shop Shark
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 889
Raleigh,NC
I still have most of my original clutch head screws/bolts, but I am missing a few, (such as one of the screws that holds on the voltage regulator) I hope you guys that are replacing them might consider dropping any good ones in an envelope and mailing them to me......

Thanks,

Kurt


#887157 - Fri Oct 05 2012 03:55 PM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Midpiner]  
cletis  Offline
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,333
Parker County Texas
I find that using a scribe to clean the clutch head socket first helps. I also try to tighten the screw first to break the rust. As mentioned above, penetrating oil helps. In stubborn cases I heat them. I rarely need to drill one out. Of course I realize the climate a truck spent its life in may have some bearing on the ease of dis-assembly.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
My TRUCKS website

#887189 - Fri Oct 05 2012 06:03 PM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Kurt_51carryall]  
BLUEMEANIE  Offline
Shop Shark
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,106
St.L MO
Originally Posted By Kurt_51carryall
I hope you guys that are replacing them might consider dropping any good ones in an envelope and mailing them to me......

You got it! PM me your mailing address. I'll set aside all the good ones for ya.


#887199 - Fri Oct 05 2012 06:48 PM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Midpiner]  
bartamos  Offline
Master Gabster
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,090
The Ranch
If those would have been Phillips heads, long ago, and rusted in place, as they did, the head would have stripped easier than clutch. The "Phillips", actually called cross recess, is probably the worst head to remove when rusted. We have all become accustom to Phillips and they are widely available. The aerospace industry tried to get rid if the cross recessed head because it is just about the only head that needs downward force to tighten and loosen. All the rest just need torque and don't "wind" out like Phillips. We could not change over because there were so many out there already and not all service centers, repair facilities and etc would have a torx or allen or square or clutch or star or whatever was decided to be the new head..... and slotted is not driver retaining. The good side of cross recessed is that it stays on the driver fairly well for assemblers, they do ok in low torque requirements and it's configuration allows for a stronger screw head, especially flathead. A new/cleaned clutch head screw with proper driver works very well and ORIGINAL!


1960 GMC K10 Shortbed Wideside BBW CC BBV6 (The Oreo SpeedWagon)
Is it me, or am I weird?

#887206 - Fri Oct 05 2012 07:07 PM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Midpiner]  
BIG CHEVY 3600  Offline
Master Gabster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 5,362
DALLAS/BLANCO TEXAS
Stainless with anti-cease is the best way to go unless you're into the original show condition.


Jim
Big Chevy's Photobucket pix
FIRST START http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fb-4nPArk98

Modern ‘science’: the wonder of a
pre-determined mind…

The ‘baseline belief’ of astronomy:
“Any day now, we’ll pick up a tiny,
coded signal from outer space. Then
we’ll know for certain that there is
intelligence out there, because coded
information does not arise by chance”

The ‘baseline belief’ of biology:
The precisely coded genetic information in
every cell would fill many books…
but we know for certain that no intelligence
could have created life.”



#887249 - Fri Oct 05 2012 09:05 PM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Midpiner]  
tclederman  Online
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 24,913
Jarvisburg, NC
The clutch head bolts were far superior to other bolt/screw heads. As stated above, any-headed bolt is a pain when rusted.

http://1954advance-design.com/Web%20images/clutch-head-1.jpg

Kurt, PM me what clutch head bolts/screws you need. Another stovebolter sent me all of his. If I have extras, I'll "pay it forward" to you.


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban - part of the family for 45 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic
Z-series (54/55) GMC 350 (2-ton) COE
If you have to stomp on your starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.

#887260 - Fri Oct 05 2012 11:02 PM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Midpiner]  
bartamos  Offline
Master Gabster
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,090
The Ranch
Bluemeanie and Tclederman: Sometimes I need reminded, That's what this site is all about. Good job boys.


1960 GMC K10 Shortbed Wideside BBW CC BBV6 (The Oreo SpeedWagon)
Is it me, or am I weird?

#887419 - Sat Oct 06 2012 06:43 PM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Midpiner]  
Midpiner  Offline
Shop Shark
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 115
Escalon Ca.
Thanks for all the replys.Will try the impact on the other side.


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Moderated by  cletis 

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