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#819665 Wed Jan 25 2012 07:05 PM
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,258
L
LonnieC Offline OP
'Bolter
Any suggestions to help me paint my engine while it's in the truck? Sittin' on the garage floor - no lift, no stands. '54 235 4-speed

I ordered rattle can and brush-on dark grey engine paint from The Filling Station. I'll prime and wet sand the valve cover and pushrod cover. Any reason to prime the block? If so, with what? I'll brush the block to avoid over spray.

I Gunked it this morning. I'll clean it a couple of more times. What do you suggest to clean it?

Gonna try to paint it without removing the radiator unless I find that I need to when I replace the water pump. Or do you think that I should just go ahead and take it out?

Is it possible to paint the bell housing / clutch housing? Looks kinda tight.

I'll paint the valve cover, push rod cover, water pump (replacing), filler necks, and possibly the timing cover off of the engine. Remove wires, plugs, gen, hoses, fuel & vac lines, and road draft tube, to get out of the way.

I'm tempted to drop the oil pan and paint off the truck, but I'm afraid of what I'll find.

Thanks,


- Lonnie
My '54 3104
Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post.
lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt.

OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,250
J
'Bolter
I would not pull the motor to paint, just mask off all other areas etc. Would paint the pan in place, timing cover as well. You could check with a paint store for a cleaner or something like lacquer thinner should work.


It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!
1946 1/2-Ton Chevy [stovebolt.com]
1953 Chevy 3/4-ton Factory Stakebed [stovebolt.com]
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,109
5
Shop Shark
i found it very tedious and less satisfying leaving the engine in to paint it. what i found to be easier and somewhat satisfying is to paint everything but the block and the head but clean the block and head up the best you can. removing all the bolt on stuff and painting then bolting it back to shows that maintenance is being performed and paint is a form of maintenance. the best way is to have the engine out to be totally satisfied with the results.

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,015
B
'Bolter
I would pressure wash it.

Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,258
L
LonnieC Offline OP
'Bolter
Thanks for your input and experiences -

Pulling the engine is not an option.

"Boltr#43" - I'll paint the pan and timing cover in place. (Originally thought the timing cover was an easy removal)

"51 aston" - Yes, this is gonna be a tedius job! I'll remove everything that I can before painting the block.

"Builder" - I agree about pressure washing, but my pressure washer died last year. I Gunked it yesterday. Used a $7 siphon engine cleaner from HF to cover everything with Gunk. Did a good job of getting it in crevaces and tight places. But "blasts away dirt, grease, and grime" is an exaggeration!. Standard water hose pressure cleaned it up pretty well. I'll Gunk it again and maybe borrow a pressure washer. Spot clean with acetone as needed. Luckily, the engine and frame were fairly clean to start with.

The "while-you're-at-it" syndrome is starting to kick in. I may scuff sand and paint the inner fenders, too.


- Lonnie
My '54 3104
Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post.
lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt.

OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,658
D
Shop Shark
I've had good luck using Simple Green and a couple stiff scrub brushes. Wet things down, then spray with the Simple Green and start scrubbing. Have a bucket with water and Simple Green mixed to clean the brushes. Rinse and repeat a few times. If you have air it works good to blow it dry, then you can see if you missed anything. Once I get things clean and ready to paint I take a clean rag and soak it with lacquer thinner and wipe it good. Once it's dry paint away. Good prep work pays off with a good finish and one that won't flake off.
Don

Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,258
L
LonnieC Offline OP
'Bolter
I finished painting my engine and engine bay with the engine in the truck. Not a speedy task. Seemed like I would spend a couple of hours masking, then paint for a few minutes. I removed most of the parts to clean and paint off of the engine. Didn't remove the carb or lines because I didn't want to create leaks. Thanks to DavidF for the aluminium foil masking tip in another thread.

I used almost three rattle cans and a quarter of a pint of brush-on of Filling Station engine paint. I found some areas on the engine that I missed. Can't touch them up now - already getting oil on them from oozing valve cover etc.

I thought that I had the job planned out pretty well, but I ended up masking and painting multiple times in the same areas. Suggest painting the frame areas first, then the engine, and the inner fenders last. (I painted the engine first.)

Used Calyx on the rusty exhaust manifold. Looks great and was simple to use. Also used it on accelerator, brake, and clutch springs.

Here are the paints that I used:

ITEM / / BRAND / / PART # / / DESCRIPTION / / SHEEN / COLOR (Notes)
Engine / / Filling Station / / FS-359 & FS-119P / / Engine Enamel / / Dark Gray
Generator / / Dupli-Color / / DE1635 / / Engine Enamel / / Ford Semi Gloss Black
Starter / / Dupli-Color / / DE1635 / / Engine Enamel / / Ford Semi Gloss Black
Generator Brackets / / Dupli-Color / / DE1635 / / Engine Enamel / / Ford Semi Gloss Black
Starter Rods / / Dupli-Color / / DE1635 / / Engine Enamel / / Ford Semi Gloss Black
Heater Hose Bracket / / Rustoleum / / 7798830 / / Protective Enamel / / Semi Gloss Black
Frame / / Rustoleum / / 7777830 & 7777502 / / Protective Enamel / / Satin Black
Steering Box / / Dupli-Color / / DE1651 / / Engine Enamel / / Cast Coat Iron
Inner Fenders / / Rustoleum / / 7777830 / / Protective Enamel / / Satin Black
Headlight Buckets / / Rustoleum / / 209584 / / Automotive Aerosol / / Semi-Gloss Black
Headlight Inner Bucket / / a coat of Rustolium aluminum and a mist of Rustoleum Galvanized
Fan / / Rustoleum / / 209584 / / Automotive Aerosol / / Semi-Gloss Black
Air Cleaner / / Rustoleum / / 209584 / / Automotive Aerosol / / Semi-Gloss Black
Coil Bracket / / Rustoleum / / 257884 / / Automotive Enamel / / Gloss Clear
Coil / / Dupli-Color / / DE1635 / / Engine Enamel / / Ford Semi Gloss Black
Radiator / / Rustoleum / / 7798830 / / Protective Enamel / / Semi Gloss Black (Similar to Auto Semi, I had more Protect available)
Steering Column / / Dupli-Color / / DE1634 / / Engine Enamel / / GM/CHRY Low Gloss Black Flat, slight grey tint - similar to column inside cab)

Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3
Pic 4
Pic 5
Pic 6

I posted the results of painting the frame and inner fenders in another thread.

Thanks for your help in pointing me in the right direction.


- Lonnie
My '54 3104
Photos that I have shared on Stovebolt via PhotoBucket are no longer available. Please contact me if you want a photo from an old post.
lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com. I sold my '54 3104 12/12/2017, but I still visit Stovebolt.

OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,004
D
Shop Shark
Bravo! looks awesome.

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,736
Shop Shark
Great looking job Lonnie, thanks for sharing it with everyone.


1953 Chevy 5-window 3100
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Picturetrail

Dave
Engine & Driveline Moderator

If you can't make seventy by an easy road, don't go. ~~ Mark Twain
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 31,815
Bubba - Curmudgeon

Lonnie, you are an inspiration.
Nice job, and thanks for the information and instructions.


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com [1954advance-design.com]
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban [stovebolt.com] - part of the family for 49 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic [1954advance-design.com] - part of the family for 15 years
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engines are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler. [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com]
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