Stovebolt.com Forums Active Threads

This Article [eastwood.com] from Eastwood has some good info on how much paint you'll need for your project.

When I bought paint for my project, I just made a WAG and ordered a gallon and a quart. I still have about a pint left, so it was a good guess. You can get coverage info from the data sheet on the paint you plan on buying.

Hi All
Am after 2 of these trims if anyone has a pair please
It's the trim that goes onto the sliding glass section which I need only for the middle windows
I am based in England so please only come back to me if you are willing either ship direct or to a friends shipper in Whittier CA

I have been offered a full set of 4 for $200 which I thought was very expensive


Anyone got a pair at a SENSIBLE price please?

Thank you

Been awhile since I have been on, I have a 1964 Chevy C30 Panel, and I am looking for a brake band relineing kit, any advice on where I can get one?

A lot of old iron of all kinds at this old junk yard auction, including several Chevy trucks.
I plan on being there.

https://marquetteauctionservices.com/events/antique-vehicle-parts-collection-auction/

Don

We just added a listing in the Driveline Tech Tip Forum which provides individual links to the Tips that are listed in the "backroom" -- the legacy Tech Tips page. Since not everyone thinks about going there for information, etc. ... we thought a "reminder" might be helpful.

If you have any questions, concerns, other input, please post here.

"Take a look at our SCARY GOOD DEALS and save 10%-15%-20% off!"

Want to get up to 20% off your next order? Choose a Wood Bed Kit or a Cool Pro-Tilt Bed or a Raised Floor Kit or thousands of other parts, including our new Toolbox. Then use the codes below to get Genuine MAR-K USA Made parts on SALE now!

10% off orders no minimum use SCARY10
15% off orders over $500 use SCARY15
20% off orders over $1000 use SCARY20

                   Good through 10/31/23

* offer valid for retail customers only.
* imported parts not included.
* Work Truck Floor kits not eligible for discount.

START SHOPPING [mar-k.us12.list-manage.com]

"Take a look at our SCARY GOOD DEALS and save 10%-15%-20% off!"

Want to get up to 20% off your next order? Choose a Wood Bed Kit or a Cool Pro-Tilt Bed or a Raised Floor Kit or thousands of other parts, including our new Toolbox. Then use the codes below to get Genuine MAR-K USA Made parts on SALE now!

10% off orders no minimum use SCARY10
15% off orders over $500 use SCARY15
20% off orders over $1000 use SCARY20

                   Good through 10/31/23

* offer valid for retail customers only.
* imported parts not included.
* Work Truck Floor kits not eligible for discount.

START SHOPPING [mar-k.us12.list-manage.com]

New old stock p/n 12339243 Horn Relay
Seem to fit many G.M. rigs including trucks from 63 to 66.
Check your application online.

$50 including shipping anywhere a USPS flat rate box will go to!
Thanks for looking, send me a p.m.!

You say you've read some threads on Stovebolt so far and you are ready to post. "But where?" you say.


If you haven't wandered too far yet, some of this post with links may help you know where to wander and where you should post questions or search for more info. Then there are others just to "relax" and get acquainted better with fellow Bolters.

Hope they help.

SHOPS AREA
General Truck Talk. The Engine Shop. Driveline. The Electrical Bay. The Radio Bench. The HiPo Shop. Paint and Body Shop. Doors. Interiors. The Tool Chest. Making a Stovebolt Bed. Name that Part.
~~ Most of these tech / mech forums have their own sub-forum for Tech Tips, and they are growing.
       "Technical knowledge sharing" when you are ready to break out the tools and get to work. Plenty of space and tools available -- just find your way to the appropriate shop and get to work."

PARKING LOT
Early Bolts. Big Bolts. Panels & Burbs. 60-66 trucks. Tons O' Fun.
~~ Close to the Shops Area, a place to join other guys with similar trucks and issues to tackle.

SWAP MEET
Trucks for Sale. Trucks Wanted. Truck Parts for Sale. Truck Parts Wanted. Misc. Stovebolt Stuff. Modern GM and Non-GM. Freebies. Stovebolt Spotting Alert Network. Hauling Board. Other on-line sources -eBay and Craigslist Links.
~~ FREE - what more need we say!

DITY GALLERY
~~ It's the first sub-forum you'll come across (under the Welcome Centre). Unlike the Gallery Forum, it's an extension from the days of the original Gallery, this is for more input and updates, on an on-going basis.
      "Just like it sounds, you have the ability to "tell your truck story" here, adding plenty of images to help with the tale. It's an on-going story of your truck that can be added to as it unfolds and as you have time to tell your 'Never ending story.' "

PROJECT JOURNALS
~~ These trucks entries are by invitation.
       "The restoblogs have ongoing projects (restorations, modifications, outright street machines, as well as smaller scale component projects (steering, engines, etc.) -- all in near real time! Blow-by-blow, step-by-step description, commentary and discussion by the project persons themselves."

GALLERY FORUMS
~~ This Gallery has its own Posting Guide. New additions stay "under construction" until completed. Must be approved for the initial posting. Lots of images first up.

SIDE LOT
Legion Hall. Midwest Bolters (MBA). North Eastern Bolters. Whole Wild West Coast. Great Lake Bolters. Rocky Mountain Bolters. Southern Bolters. Texas Bolters. Old Dominion Stovebolt Society (ODSS). International Zone.
      "Discussion area for the regional groups to talk about or coordinate region-specific meets, junkyard tours or other face-to-face stuff."

OFFICE
News & Announcements. IT Shortbus. The Greasy Spoon. The Passing Lane.
      "Well, you've wandered all the way to the back of the site. Here's where policy gets made, deals brokered, fist fights settled (and that's all just in the staff lounge ...). Here is where we pile all the fine bits of greaseless information. See what's been added to the site, take an info ride on the IT Shortbus and catch a few technology tips, or totally zone in the Greasy Spoon."


After four posts, you will be good to go. I'm thinking it won't be hard to get to the fifth!

Outside the Forums:


Again, welcome.

There's a new Tech Tip for you on those darned king pins and bushings.

"How to fit new king pins and bushing." A post was originally made by Grigg "Grigg" Mullen in May 2016 when he was the Engine & Driveline Moderator. With some later input by Chris "SWEET" Sweet (Tech Advisor), and some additional images, the post is now in PDF format for a easy read / easy print out.

"This procedure was written for 1957 3100, but it applies to the older trucks and likely newer ones as well."


It can be found HERE in the Driveline Tech Tip Forum.

Take a look, hope it helps.

I have two radios for 67-72 C50 Chevys' Neither one works AFAIK. Anyone out there have a vintage radio shop that repairs these radios? Or can recommend one? Since I am about 70% deaf, I don't listen to any radio much, so I don't need or want anything but a stock AM radio. Any recommendations for a repair shop? TIA.

Firstly, if this should go into the body shop section, then please move it there. I'm posting here because although my cab supports are rotten, I'm asking if they're different for a big bolt versus a C10-30. I'm unsure how those intersect, so here goes..

My bus has the Chevy front clip, and width wise it's the same as a C10-the hood is even the same as I bought a new one and it fit fine. Since it's a bus front clip, the GM part ends at the cowl behind the flip up vent, and the Carpenter bus coach begins. Right now, that sturdy and remarkably rust free Carpenter coach is essentially holding my Chevy front clip onto the frame, as the supports pictured below are probably not doing much anymore. My hypothesis that the GM part of the floor pan is similar or the same as say, a C30. Classic Industries shows these front cab supports and they're even cheap. Their part number is T70319, L or R front cab support 60-66. I'm hoping this repop is the same, or at least close enough that I can make it work.There's also some substantial rot on the floorboards and inner cowl panels and frankly, after seeing all the heroic rebuilds of this area by other 'Bolters, I'm a little nervous to tear into it. I would actually like to drive this rig again someday

So the floorboards and firewall are pretty straightforward and flat, with the rust not going up enough to encroach on pedal areas, etc. and I could probably make/weld those. For the things I can't fabricate myself, I'm wondering how close the Big Bolt front clip is to its lighter duty C30 siblings. Also, not gonna be a show truck so it doesn't have to be Concourse correct. It's gonna be used as an RV. Just, you know, looking to remove some ankle ventilation.

Looks like nice weather for you all.

Striped, primed and painted and very straight.
Excellent condition. Fits 1937 - 1947 216 car or
truck engine.
$70.00 plus shipping in lower 48.
NEW LOWER PRICE $ 50.00

Original distributor out of my sold M.D. The numbers are worn but look to be #1110008-9b 22. Fits
1938 / 1939 g.m. 216 engines. It's been completely striped down and cleaned and reassembled with new cap,rotor & condenser ( not original ) Also has the original adjustable vacuum advance. Don't miss out on a 84 year old piece of history . IN EXCELLENT CONDITION !
Price is a firm $108.00 dollars + ( FREE ) shipping to lower 48

One nice OEM passenger/right door latch for the 1947-1951 AD trucks. It appears to have a lot of life left in it. $50 + $12 ride.

These three trucks are part of an estate liquidation.
Blue one w/o a grill by the tree is a ‘64-65 C10 Custom LWB. Appears to have a 350 engine. Very minimal rust and no dents to speak of. Parked for 25+ years so doesn’t run.

One red one is a ‘61 and the blue one behind the tin scrap is a ‘60. Both are LWB and have rust in the usual locations. Parked for 25+ years. The red one has what looks to be a 327 and the other does not have an engine or transmission.

All three have titles.

These are parked on Private property in Central Oklahoma and are not visible from the road.

THEY ARE NOT MINE. Send me a PM and I can provide you with contact information for owner.

Someone posted on fender install a few weeks ago so I might be late to help and I asked a similar question a month ago so here is what I have learned..please let me know if this procedure I am working through will not work fully when the paint starts flying, I am only in primer. Maybe I am missing a future step that derails this plan.

1) paint the inside lip where inner and outer fenders meet (cheaper paint?) and install the anti-squeek material listed in the assembly book.
2) attach inner to outer fender tightening bolts fully. This ensures panels do not move when placing on the truck and scratch paint.
3) paint as one whole mated piece.
4) take mated painted inner and outer and install on the vehicle propping front corner of outer fender with a jack with towel (2 people here would be great).
5) once secured to the cowl then slightly loosen all bolts so final adjustments can be made and repeat for other side
6) here is where I am dong things differenty--install radiator support. I found this much easier so far as I have no idea how you would not scratch the fresh paint trying to push the fenders under the radiator support. The radiator drops straight down and its then just a matter of pushing the fenders in to line up the holes.
Use smaller bolts in the non threaded holes specifically at the top radiator mount to help you get things held in place and pulled up so things do not move or fall then you can switch to the correct size bolt as you move around doing the adjustments.

I will be looking next at the grille and the best procedure to keep the paint from scratching.
I am currently trying to figure out how to get my passenger side cowl and outer fender to sit flat with each other..they are off by a mile!
Also any advise on the hood? I noticed just during the adjustment I was doing it was catching the edge and tearing off the primer. I know it all has to be loose and it is and I followed the procedure..but just one small mistake like that and there goes the paint! I am thinking that painting the hood in place might be the best thing. Perhaps paint the brackets off the truck first than install and paint the hood after the adjustments are done?

Let me know if I am off base for any reason. Thanks for all the help so far.

NOT MINE!

Listed as C20, not sure where they got that idea, has 60 emblem in photo!


1962 Chevrolet C20 Truck, with a 283 motor, and a metal hydraulic flat bed.

https://eastoregon.craigslist.org/cto/d/hermiston-1962-chevrolet-c20/7664616450.html

only has 1 photo, looks pretty darn straight, has 6 lug Budd wheels.
I'd be across the blues to take a look at it but I've been married 41 years and would like to make it to at least 42!

I have a good flywheel removed from a 1952 International L-130, $35.
Also have the bell housing, clutch disc and pressure plate which I will include.

We have an update to an old Tech Tip on "How to Measure Cylinder Taper" by Jerry "Hotrod Lincoln" Herbison that was originally posted July 2017.
You’ve disassembled the engine and the pistons are out ... You were careful in doing that, right? If there were some ridges at the top, the only correct way to remove a ring ridge is with a reamer designed specifically for that purpose -- Do that BEFORE you attempt to remove the piston so you don’t break a piston ring land by pounding them out.
Read more (or print out - an easy two-pager) in the PDF. If you have any questions or comments about this Tech Tip, please feel free to post HERE in the Engine Shop Forum.

Thermostat upper & lower housing to head Chevy 40-50 engine

$70 + Ship

This ad has been up for quite some time, but the pics seem to indicate the hood is in very good condition and probably worth the asking price, if you're not too far away. Also offers a glove box door, but can see at least 1 good sized ding, but if you don't have one...

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1306673220266394/

Says a 1949 6400 "grain truck" with reported issues (not running and something in rear axle not working right). IMO, pricey at the $2000 asking price, but maybe of interest to someone???

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1033547318006630/

Ad says it ran when parked in the shed.

Looks to be pretty intact (with many removed parts in the bed) and at the small asking price of $3800, could be a great value for someone looking for an "Early Bolt" to restore/bring back to life???

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1424011201777716/