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#1504197 Thu Jun 08 2023 01:18 AM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 178
87GN Offline OP
nothing beats a try but a failure
I block sanded up to 400 grit on my 54 cab, but at the seam were the A pillar meets the cowl I sanded thru to bare metal. I am close to painting the cab but I wanted to address this issue before I proceeded to paint. How would you move forward in respect to the metal brake thru?

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1955.1 3600 5 window 4 speed all original except the 410 gears.
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87GN #1504198 Thu Jun 08 2023 01:26 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 8,115
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
I would shoot a little more primer on that spot. Then be a bit lighter on the sanding.

Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos []
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
87GN #1504209 Thu Jun 08 2023 03:20 AM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,038
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!

87GN #1504240 Thu Jun 08 2023 01:44 PM
Joined: May 2022
Posts: 52
I’m currently taking a body shop class and we discussed burn through. As the other posts said, just re-prime and go easier on the sanding. For burn through it’s common practice to touch up the burn through with a rattle can if you only have a few small spots. BUT, TO GET PROPER ADHESION it must be the same manufacturer and type of primer.
For the work I’m doing on the bed steps of my ‘55, I was able to get the same Nason primer in both a quart and rattle can from our local Kemperle Inc distributor, for the situation that you’ve encountered.

1955 Chevy 2nd Series 3100 Stepside, 235cid

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