Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area The Engine Shop 58 Car 235 into 51 3100

A lot depends on how accessible it will be to work the hole with a hand-file, especially on the passenger side because of the timing cover and exacerbated by working from underneath
Going to attempt this while engine is still in the wooden cradle in bed of the truck with the front of engine over-hanging over the rear of bed of the truck.

Edit - this was based on a comment I had read regarding clearance for the inboard bolt on the passenger side
(See the previous post where I got fixed upon the reported issue of interference of the passenger side bolt with the timing cover)

See the next post, I don't believe this is going to be an issue, at least on this particular motor, now I see what I'm working with.
So that 'solution' is not going to be necessary.

So I got the new engine home and started dis-assembly and looking into things.
There is a TON of space on this engine below the timing cover cup - is it perhaps different on this model of 235? (a '58)
See the image below

I have since actually pulled the harmonic balancer off (man was that on there TIGHT! - but eventually got it off)
I'll take a better picture tomorrrow that shows the space front-on, but even from this image before I pulled it, you can see how much space there is there.

That seemed contradictory to all the information I have been reading previously



So I'm already thinking, just round 7/16 (clearance) holes and regular hex bolts, either 'normal' orientation, or with the bolts inverted and nylok nuts on the top.
Either way it's hard to see an issue installing a new mount before installing the harmonic balancer.

Balancer removed and Seal pulled
Holes drilled for the new Mount - right now these are just clearance for 7/16" bolts
Water Pump removed (it was not leaking but going to install a new one)
Contacted "pre '68 Dave" and ordered a WP Adapter plate (he was extremely responsive - Thank you Dave!)
Ordered new Stainless hardware for the pump plate, New Pump, Drill/Tap set plus a Bottom Tap, Front Seal, Repair Sleeve for Balancer, Engine Mount and Clutch
(The Clutch was OK on the 216, but for the amazing price of $87 on a full kit from Rock Auto, it just makes sense to put a new one in)
Generator, Starter, Transmission, Clutch, Flywheel and Bellhousing all pulled in prep for swap of the 216 components after that engine gets pulled.

Don’t forget to add a little oil to the end of the crankshaft and inside the harmonic balancer. You’ll use less force to drive it on. Just some friendly advice.

You’ll want a little oil on the oil seal too.

I bought a new pump to go with the adapter plate from Pre '68 Dave and got that installed using the previously recommended Permatex Super 300
A cautionary note to others who might undertake the Adapter installation:
I followed the instructions and marked the hole locations as described, removed the pump and plate assembly and drilled them to depth and tapped.
Then I found I could not get it to bolt up, the holes were slightly misaligned. Perhaps I should have drilled the initial holes deeper to ensure I had it centered properly after removing the assembly.
If I was to do it again, I think I would leave the pump/plate in place and drill them like that to ensure the drill stayed aligned.
As it was I had to drill out the pump and adapter to larger size to get it to fit (not a big deal really in the grand scheme however)
I did put sealer on those bolts as well as between the mating surfaces to ensure no leak at those new tapped holes.

Drilled and Tapped the crank to pull on the Balancer rather than beat it on - one of the local Bolters loaned me the The 12Bolt Snout Drilling Fixture [12bolt.com] you know who you are, big thank you for that! (another kind bolter loaned me their home-made 'driver' - but I shouldn't need that now, with the crank having been tapped.)
I do have a balancer install kit, which is essentially a bolt and a bearing. Won't get to that until I pull the 216 however.
When I do get around to installing, I do have a sleeve for the Balancer and have already installed a new seal (although that is not shown in the attached pics)

I also mounted the Front Engine Mount - inverted the bolts with the nuts on the top, to work around the issue of getting the passenger side in - I think that seems to work well! Used a couple of star washers and Nylok Nuts.

I do have one question about the Flywheel end:
Where would this oil be coming from? I took this today after it had been sitting about a week.
Note that the Pilot Bearing has not been fully installed - I decided against using that one that came with the Clutch Kit and decided to get a better one (steel/Bronze) from Rock Auto.
Incidentally the 'bread trick' worked fabulously in removing the old bushing!

I used some of my Grandchildren’s “Play-Doh” instead of bread, easy clean up and worked well to remove my pilot bearing.
Was it necessary to use a tool to ensure the seal in the timing cover was centered around the harmonic balancer before tightening the timing gear cover to the engine? This procedure is shown on page 6-32 of the 1954 truck Shop Manual. Does everyone do this?

Have to say there was zero clean-up with bread either, but sure I get that Play-doh would work - might argue peeling all the Play-doh out of the orifice could be more (?) challenging than bread.
But more than one way to skin a cat and can't argue with what worked,
I did not remove my timing cover - wasn't any need to in my case
But I can certainly appreciate that the procedure you describe would indeed be valuable if the cover had been removed/loosened up.

I had to reinstall the cover on my ‘59 235, and the tool is necessary. There is enough slop in the cover bolts that the seal wouldn’t be centered. I made one on my lathe out of wood.