Here's my '58 3800 that has the 9 foot bed option on it. I bought it a few months ago in hopes of breathing some life back into it!

From what I can tell, it had a rough life as a farm truck. Bad rust, bondo, mis-matched parts, and a few accidents here and there. The hood and passenger side fender are off a '59 truck, and I think the cab is not original as well. The 235 might be toast, oil smells kinda burnt...

I've dissembled most of the truck and picked up a few parts for it already. I have a couple engine choices in mind for it, but that'll be down the road. Thinking about lowering it just a bit too, like flip the rear axle and put a drop axle up front.

The pics here show how it looked before disassembly, and its current state.

Like the loooong boxes- not too sure myself about lowering a heavy duty truck, but what you do isn’t up to me.
What are you thinking for the drivetrain?
Have fun.

I'm on the fence about lowering the truck, it won't be too much of a drop if I do so. I plan on using the truck as a truck once its running and driving and legal.

As for the drivetrain, I'm not sure yet, currently doing some research to see what other rear ends could fit.

Update on the truck:

A few weeks back I scored a cab, front clip, 2 doors, and 2 hoods on Craigslist for a great price! https://photos.app.goo.gl/TnKAah2kDfMjMhtA8
The original cab is far too rusty to repair and would be too costly for me. The 'new' cab is in better condition, but still will need a bit of work.

Also my dad picked up a supposedly 383 stroker for real cheap from one of his friends. We'll have to open it up and see how it is in the inside. I'd like to put it in the truck, but not quite sure yet.

Now, as for the rear end. The truck still has the factory 8 lug 5.14 ratio axle. How stout is the factory axle? Would a 14 bolt be a good swap for a Taskforce era truck? I still would like to run the SM420 trans for the time being.

Gotta love them trucks. Looking forward to seeing pics as it comes along.

I bet the 14 bolt is still a good swap, check the original axle width and compare with info in the 14 bolt sticky thread.

Thanks Grigg! I've read though that thread a few times now to figure out what I need to search for.
The spring perches on the original axle measure a little over 40". The width for the original axle is very similar to a 14 bolt out of a C&C, its just a tad wider.

And it hit me yesterday, I know of a salvage yard with a mid-70s Chevy towtruck that might have one under it. Hopefully the truck is still there, was 2 months ago when I saw it.

Might check condition of the spindles, a heavily used axle may have spun races on the spindles.
I’ve bought several axles with various more or less non repairable issues before finding a real nice one.

RV’s can have them too, and frequently don’t see very many miles.

Update!

Slowly but surely, I'm making progress. Cab along with the engine/tranny is ready to come off the frame, then the fun job of scrapping and chiseling the decades of grease and oil off the frame. Doors are off with the glass and internals removed to be saved for the other doors I plan on using. https://beta-static.photobucket.com...idth=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

Also I scored a passenger side emblem at a flea market! Been hunting for one of these
https://beta-static.photobucket.com...idth=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

Thanks for the update! Cool project. May we assume that you've scrapped the idea about lowering it??

There's a good chance of that, it was just a thought. Still have looooots of things to do on the truck before I consider it.

Sorry for the lack of updates here, had some laptop issues

I haven't really done anything to the truck, still needing to remove the cab and engine...

But I did snag a couple original 3/4-1 ton hubcaps off ebay for a really good price, they're in great condition too! https://photos.app.goo.gl/hKrQPv59KAJVM1dM7

I realized that I completely forgot to post this...


The black cab I plan on using (which I posted earlier), someone already put in new outer cab corners and steps on it, though they need a little touching up with the welder. The cab does have some rust on it, but its nothing major, until I started looking over the back of it...
https://beta-static.photobucket.com...idth=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

Somebody had welded a plate over a rust spot and then caked bondo over that along with another rust spot next to the plate. I honestly almost didn't notice it at first except for a little rough spot where the rust was eating through the bondo.

So I proceeded to hack it out. What made it a bit difficult was this happened to be right where the rear cab mounting bracket is, which also had some rust. Well I got that bracket out in one piece and welded and fixed it up to reuse it.
https://beta-static.photobucket.com...idth=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

Then I cut out the same piece from the old cab to fill in the spot. First time drilling spot welds went so-so, considering I ended up drilling right through the piece...
https://beta-static.photobucket.com...idth=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

Weld it up!
https://beta-static.photobucket.com...idth=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

And hit it with some spray can primer!
https://beta-static.photobucket.com...idth=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

Not bad for my first attempt at major rust repair!


This cab will need some floor work, but I'll mess with that later...

Possum, please look into another alternative for hosting photos. Many of our members cannot see Photobucket postings. Thanks

Alright I'll look into it.

So I decided test something. I know Internet Explorer does not support Photobucket, though when I click the links here while on Internet Explorer the pictures show without any issue.

Is there anyone viewing this thread who can't get the pictures to show?

Are you referring to the PB photos in your original post or did you try something else? I can view your originals which is unusual. I usually can’t see PB pictures without jumping through a bunch of hoops.

Yes I'm referring to the PB photos in the original post. I have it where the link takes you straight to the picture without taking you to my PB Library, maybe thats why you're able to view it

Yes, I also can see your pictures. I am using Google Chrome. I had been using Explorer and updated it a few times, but on my last update I must have screwed up and this computer went back to the original version. Some people don't like Chrome because it tracks where you have been.

With Chrome I can at least see your pictures and I want to tell you, with your first attempt at rust repair, it looks great!

I just bought a 1956 3800. Maybe I should have bought a new computer instead.... no I bought another truck.

Thanks Wayne! I would've gotten the truck too


And I have to confess something I've been holding in since January. Me and my dad borrowed my uncle's tractor to move some hay, his tractor has a loader on it where ours does not, so we used it to lift the cab and engine off the frame and set it aside. Come to find out, both frame rails are bent...

https://beta-static.photobucket.com...idth=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds
https://beta-static.photobucket.com...idth=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds

Like I said, I've been reluctant to post this for the past 3 months because I was pondering on what to do. I plan on swinging by a local body shop that can do frame straightening and see what they can do for me.
I'm still gathering parts and doing other work on the truck, but once I get over this hurdle it should be downhill from there. *knocks on wood*

A well overdue update!

For the past few months I've been working on and off this truck, mostly repairing the rust on the cab. It seemed to have a growing theme of "Bondo over rust". Both outer corners had been replaced previously though were poorly welded in and had bondo slathered over them. I removed all the bondo and touched up the welds to my satisfaction.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/89C8voKW5jMfassM8

As for the floor, I hacked out the section with the galvanized welded over and bought a new floor piece(even though when the piece arrived it wasn't exactly what I ordered, but I made it work) and proceeded to cut it to the right dimensions.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/L28tfSik7H9HwHJq7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NdmVXHUcMbTvzHcb6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1jSzccSjpD7o5wGeA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ee73Rm4W36CCRXwj7

But before I could burn the new floor in, I needed to cut out a spot next to the hinge pocket that had rusted through and once again was hidden by bondo(I welded in that hole in the cab brace as well) Fabbed up a replacement panel from the old floor and put that in to appear factory.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4s6EYyoLVBymCgp37
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ChmAaDEhZCLW7Sq37
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pG59cVtwK2wekP25A

Then it was finally time for the floor to be put in! Luckily I still have the old section of floor to fill in the hole above the new floor.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JxMx8GZhvdz7YhLi6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HkYtCnDXb3TPFFhN8


So once the passenger side gets finished up, its off to the driver's. Thankfully its nowhere near as bad!

Forgot to mention in the previous post. The local body shop said they could straighten out the frame for a few hundred bucks! They'll just have to remove 2 of the cross members to do so. I'm gonna go for it

Facebook Marketplace score! Its a rust-free 9' bed sitting on a late 80s(?) frame cut down into a trailer. Mainly got it for the bed itself but it has other goodies as well like new LED lights, 10k lb. ball hitch, an 8 lug 14 bolt axle, and a receiver on the back. Might use the bed for this truck or save it for another project, not sure yet. Not bad for $500

https://photos.app.goo.gl/41iRmPRVerYCfRib8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/V3CRgVkiLXgTA6o19
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QBDHCG6P4CA9GmQs5
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3vocCkgoeq8eEAqFA

That's a great find!

Great job 👍

Update!

Been working off and on the cab itself, almost all the rust spots have been replaced, just need to tackle the kick panels and above the windshield.

Also got the frame back from the body shop, its nice and straight now considering how it looked previously! I went ahead and ground off the rivets holding the front shock mounts on to clean up the rust that was between them and the frame rails, since they form a pocket where water and dirt ends up. Seen where people have drilled a small drain hole in the mounts, so I did that as well.

If you wanted to avoid an axle swap, Chevy used that rear end up until ‘72 and even made 4.10 gear sets. Most 14 bolt FF will be 4.10 or 4.56, but 3.23 and 3.73 gear sets were factory options if you need something that high

Huh, didn't know that. Though I still plan on running a 14 bolt, got a friend who has 3 late 70s GM motorhomes he wants to break down and told him I'd like the 14s from them.

Don't forget, 14 bolts came in SF and FF.

Ed

I'm well aware The 'trailer' I posted before has a SF while the motorhomes have the narrower FF axles.

Ok so I've started the tear-down and rebuild process on the front axle. I've removed the hubs to check the bearings and to take off the old wheel cylinders. New wheel cylinders and front brake lines have been ordered and are on their way. The bearings still looked good and still rolled quite well, most likely will reuse them unless y'all say otherwise.

Though I have a question for those who have rebuilt one of these axles(or just anyone who would know). Is there a lip-type seal that I can replace these felt seals with? Or will that require me to take measurements and try to find one that will work? I haven't attempted to pull them out yet.

Take your dimensions to a seal catalogue.

Ed

Thanks Ed, figured it would come down to that. I did find a bearing & seal kit on ebay, but its a bit pricey imo though I haven't ruled it out. The original felt seal seemed to have been doing a good job so far, might stick with it but not sure

Both Timken and SKF have cross ref tools on their websites. The GM part number for the seal is 379654 which crosses over to 20669 for SKF and 5756 for Timken. I used cross ref tool when I bought new seals for my truck, just can’t remember which ones I bought. I would still confirm the dimensions to make sure.

Dave

Thanks Dave! I couldn't figure out the part number for that felt seal, so you helped me out big time

i have removed lots of frame brackets thru the yrs -to clean up frame rust & sometimes weld frame & grind down & ALWAYS USE "sherwin william" caulking -between the mount & frame- & its has held up for 10yrs on 1 old truck-keeps moisture out !lots of new commercial truck use it to slow down or prevent rust !it comes in several colors -white-gray -black use it you will like it !