The holes for the mirror mount on one of my doors are stripped out and the holes on the other door are getting close.

Is there a good reason not to just put rivnuts in the stock holes and use machine screws with the appropriate head to reattach them? Welding the stripped holes shut and redrilling them is the more traditional solution, but I am wondering if it is the best one.

My 1980 Chevy truck came with the "extendable camper mirrors". They were attached to the door with some sort of rivnuts and stainless steel bolts.

I had a problem with them. When I wanted to remove the mirrors, I found some of the bolts frozen in their rivnuts and the rivnuts spun in the door skin when I tried to remove them.

Based on Gord’s experience I’d put rivnuts in and then tack weld them or just use weld nuts. The ones on Gord’s truck were probably just crimped in. Anti seize on the screws, too.

They do make a serrated rivnut that has a bit more grip.

The other option in addition to using the rivnuts shown above, on sheet metal such as your door skin I will use a flat washer on the back side when setting the rivnut to help spread the load out ..

I think these are the ones Gord And Fran were talking about may be okay if you put never seize

The proper way is to make a nut plate. Like the 67-69 trucks use. Use the gasket as a template for 1/8 thick steel with three nuts welded to it. Hold it up in there while installing mirror.
or just reach in and hold a separate nut for each screw.
Don't be drilling extra holes.

I don't feel that is an application for a rivnut.

Bartamos. A nut plate is a good idea. The door is not flat there, but with a rubber gasket similar to what is on the outside it should be close enough.

Thanks, I should have thought of that.

Individual nuts with backing washer would be the easiest. Depending on access. If you can slightly curve the plate to get the proper screw angles, you can thread the plate. Depending on screw size. I don't remember the size. 1/4-20 would take a 3/16 min thick plate.