Looking at a truck for sale has original 235 in it with 59 thousand miles on it what would be a decent price
Not enough information to give a reasonable valuation. Need about 30 more closeup photos. Or check out our Tech Tips on buying/selling.
As Justhorsinaround said we need more info. Just so you know, in ‘52, 3100’s (1/2 ton) pickups came with a 216 not 235’s. They were not available in the 1/2 ton until ‘54.
You go first...............How much are they asking? and do they have a 100% legit title? After I get those answers, there are the all important three magic questions.
BTW: The mileage has no bearing on value. Motor, not real important. Good that it has one. You don't use the same mind set as you would buying a 1982 Chevy truck. Totally different set of concerns and opinions. Kelly Blue Books and NADA and Hagerty are worthless in either case.
Just to add to the title
Make sure how ever its titled that the title numbers can be verified.
Example: guy has clear title, truck was previously titled by engine number. Since that time engine replaced.
Numbers no longer match title.
My case, truck titled by door post numbers. I go to DMV for inspection. Inspector wont verify because door post plate is “removable”. Luckily older inspector came to look and signed off.
So on, so on
Need way way more information and 30+ photos to know what you're working with.
Assuming it is solid, mostly rust free, and runs/drives decent but needs some TLC to make it a road-worthy driver, I'm thinking no more than $15,000-$20,000 or so for asking price.
Some might call me crazy, but I just saw one in worse condition than this one go for $14,000 very quickly after listed.
Patrick, can you post that sale or where it was listed? thanks
Im learning here the only reason im saying its a 235 is because of the short push rod cover on the side not the long one on this engine the cover is short. the truck may have had an engine swap the owner got it in the early 70s and that was the engine.
I have a 54 3600 been sitting out back for a few years. I would sell it if I had any idea what to ask. I had one guy stopped buy and offer $300.
it's not a runner so I'm clueless. good luck. Do bullet holes help the value?
If it's complete, even if not operating, it's worth more than $300.
Bullet holes only increase the value for rednecks.
I see a ballast resistor, looks like it's been converted to 12 volts...
yes it has been converted to 12 volt. Im just looking to see roughly what this is worth im thinking 1,000 to 1,500 bucks im i close
The only reason im saying its a 235 is because of the short push rod cover and not the long one. Maybe there was an engine swap in the early days the owner has had it since the early 70s. Maybe it was an option in 52 for the 235 could this be the case?
Looks like a 235 with a 216 valve cover, get the s/n next to the distributor. That will tell you
1500 would be an excellent deal depending of condition of sheet metal. Look around. They are going for a lot more than that.
Look at the valve cover. A newer 235 will have the bolts along the sides not on top. If it is an older 235 out of a Big Bolt it could have the top valve cover bolts. The price you have suggested might be a good buy. If it’s what you want and you have the skills to bring it to what you want, then go for it.
It does look like a 235, but it’s not original. I think your way off on the price though. The prices for these AD trucks have been climbing. Without all of the details, it looks like its a complete near original truck. If that is the case and it runs and drives with no major issues, I would gladly pay $3,500 - $5,000.
Thank you guys we will see might be my first 52 chevy. Im not looking to restore the truck just looking at fixing the brakes and cleaning the fuel system and few other minor things and driving it and take it from there just want an ice cream getter an occasional ride.
Man, I'd LOVE to get my hands on that truck. I can't see enough due to the snow on it, but it looks complete and reasonably straight - a fine example of the proverbial barn find. Guys on this forum will warn you to watch out for rust in the lower cab corners, however my assumption is that they ALL have rust in that area, so don't let that deter you. That's a dang nice truck - around here it would fetch up to $3500 as it sits, $2500 would be a normal price, $1500 would be a Christmas present. Mick53, punch that lowballer in the mouth who offered you $300; that's an insult.
I don't have any pictures with no snow on it. Like i said it was painted in 1988 but was never driven during the winter. The cab corners do look good the only rust hole I see is rear drivers side fender and a very small hole on the cab as you open the door on the drivers side by the front fender. another thing I cant understand is the blinkers on the front fender I see some have them and some don't thanks again guys
Turn signals on the fenders were an add-on. They were not stock when the truck was new.
Better jump on it now .... if its what you want, before the owner gets on Facebook and realizes he can get 8k for it. As pictured.
Lurkers are probably scouring craighlist or even google earth trying to find it.
Plus red trucks bring in more in December....kinda like black cats are more expensive in October
300...? Fair price.? In the early 70’s. Thats what my Dad paid for my 50 in 74
I don't think that is a 216. The short side cover 216 that we see in Canada has distinctive features on the head. This head is not one of those. It looks like someone took good care of it under the hood. Photos like these make the truck call out to me! I am lucky that I have n't the funds or space for more old trucks because that could be a problem!
Wouldn't that valve cover need a vent, or breather filler cap?
Passenger car service 235s from '50-'53 used the old-style, two-stud valve cover (as did the '41-'53 HD truck 235s). Best way to ID the engine in the truck is to look for the stamped engine serial number on the machined pad, just aft of the distributor, and sort of behind the dipstick (as was said in an earlier post). If it's a '53 or older 235, there should be a three-letter prefix that will ID the engine and its original service use. Some replacement blocks may not have that.
'54 and newer 235s will either have a letter-number suffix or a short serial number, either of which can also help ID the engine. It's an easy retrofit to install the two-stud valve cover on the newer 235s, so the engine serial number, the date code cast in the block, sort-of behind and above the starter, or block casting number (low in front of the distributor, and sometimes hard to see) are really the best way to ID the engine. In any event, it's not a 216, as others have said.
Dad's, no, the early valve covers have the open vent slots.
Don't see any vent in the pic
Dad's, they are there, just "pointed" backwards, so hard to see. Three of them - see the photo I've marked up. Green arrows point to the slots.
LOL That's to funny DADS50 maybe we could hook up a few reindeer to the front and deliver a few gifts. Thank you guys for all the help ill keep you informed. Have any of you had any dealings with hotroddirtys ?
It’s a 53-55.1 235 with a 216 style valve cover. Which is good.
Buy it all ready! 😎
Since you're a new buyer, make sure you confirm the serial number on the title matches something on the truck cab or engine before laying down your money. It was common when this truck was new for States to use the engine number on the title. If the original engine is gone, the title now doesn't match anything on the truck...
Every State has a work around for this problem, but it does add a lot more heart burn to the deal. Just go at it with your eye's wide open and you'll be fine!
I had a 216 with the short side cover. It seems to me the side cover had creases that ran corner to corner so the markings resembled an X. It's hard to tell, but I don't think this side cover has the X mark. I wonder if they used different short side covers for a 216 versus the 235.
Didn't the "early" 235's have the 216 valve cover? The short height pushrod cover gives it away as a 235.
On USA 235s, the shorter side cover gives it away as a later, high-pressure 235 or a 261?
As Mike says, be sure to verify truck SN, especially if it was military, they didn’t care much about titles.
thank you all again I have learned so much. I will keep you informed
My 51 Chev truck had its original engine replaced sometime in the 1950s. That owner had the title changed to match the new engine. In the mid-seventies I swapped that engine for another one from another pickup and sold that pickup. So now my title no longer matched the engine number. Fortunately again my title had the license plate number on it.
In time, in an effort to keep prisoners at the state prison busy, the state made everybody buy new license plates. I realized that if I got the new plate there would be nothing connecting my title with the actual truck. So I hustled down to the State Patrol for an inspection to talk them into using the number on the door pillar for the title. I explained the train of events.
The young officer began scraping the frame looking for a number with his flashlight, which he didn't find and was confused because GMC trucks did have frame numbers. He was about to impound the truck when a veteran officer came out to inform him that Chevrolet trucks did not have frame numbers. The old officer looked at the paperwork I had and at the license plate that matched the title and signed off on a new title using the door post number. Whew! That door-post plate was riveted on with special rivets and I've been very careful not to disturb them when doing body work and paint.
So I have been doing some research on the motor (060I859F54Y). If Im correct it is a 1954 235 "blue flame 125" originally with a powerglide transmission. The head was not the desired 848 head, but instead it is the 3835913 model. If I'm wrong please correct me. Also is this a good motor? Ive heard rumors that the later 235 were better than the early 235? I'm glad to finally get conformation on what motor is in the old truck!
You are correct that an engine with number ending in F54Y is a '54 235, originally designated for use in a Powerglide equipped car, manufactured in the Flint, MI plant. The rated HP was 125, as you found. The engine has hydraulic valve lifters, if still in the original configuration, and not changed over the years. There is nothing wrong with the '913 head design. The combustion chamber is slightly larger than the later 848 head, which, if my memory serves me correctly, drops the compression ratio about a quarter, maybe half, point. So, not much difference in performance compared to the later 235s, and your engine's performance will depend more on state of tune and mechanical condition from a practical standpoint.
That engine should serve you well. Compared to the later blocks, it uses the older style water pump, which can be a benefit, since it positions the fan higher behind the radiator in the correct position. The block will have side motor mount locations, but I'm guessing the front cover has already been modified to use the front mount truck configuration, or exchanged with an older front mount cover, either of which work fine.
Dstray did I miss the value/asking price?
out here in California a running truck would be 8k to 12k seems in nice shape.
I paid 4500 for my complete not running 49 minimal rust 1949 3100
it came from Nebraska.
hope that helps , still interesting to see what they go for in different parts of country...
Merry Christmas everyone!