You may have seen my post elsewhere on other forums, but then I discovered stovebolt that seems to specialize in these old trucks so I figured I'd reach out here as well, I Hope this typo of post is ok.

I am looking for guidance on a reasonable offer to make on this truck, it is 1936, 1 owner (by a company) and spent most of its life indoors. Last moved sometime in the late 80s because engine's crank supposedly snapped, now I don't know how common that issue is for a crank to snap in these old motors? but that could be anything from actual bottom end issue to nothing or anything in-between. I've done no work on it so that's all the info I have. It was last "restored" by the company in the 80s which included a repaint and I'm not sure what else. The original manual is still in the glove box, I may be able to dig up even the original purchase paperwork.

body seems completely rust free, paint quality is ok, some pieces of paint chipped off, it won't win any car shows as-is, few minor dings from equipment being backed into fenders or whatnot over the decades that it sat inside.

Other than non-running nothing seems to be at least leaking out of it, amazing that for sitting there for decades the cement is clean

Interior is nice, no rats nests that I've seen, but dirty/old/filthy/plain and dusty. Usable condition.

What do you think it's worth in the as-is non running condition assuming it needs engine replacement/rebuild?

Thank you!! I just don't know the value of these old trucks, I see rust buckets on ebay for $1500 and restored ones for $50,000, not a lot for sale in the "driver but non running" quality.




Personally I wouldn’t give over $6500 knowing you re going to spend north of $2000 on the motor. It is about a $12000 Truck running and driving looking as it does now. JMO
thank you, how difficult is it to get your local machine shop to rebuild a 207 pre-war motor? I've only ever dealt with your run of the mill 350's. I can find few 235's that supposedly bolt in easily enough but even that is slim pickings, 1st world problems I guess that come with pre-war antiques smile
zracTA, welcome to Please read through all the Forums to make sure you are posting your questions in the best spot for expert answers. Also, please take the time to read the thread at the beginning of General Truck Talk about why posts are edited, moved or deleted. For now I’m going to leave your engine question here since it is sort of tied to your initial post.

Not just any machine shop will touch a pre-war engine. Those that do it well are not cheap. Check around with your local Antique Car Club and see who they use. If you end up paying to have it done expect to double my estimate from my first post. Also, a 235 is not just a bolt in Swap in a ‘30s truck. It looks like a great project.
How is the title? Does it match the engine SN or body SN? What do they want for it? I could not open the px, however, engines and running gear are relatively easy to repair, tin is very labor intensive, rust can be a deal breaker. Sounds like the tin is good, that is a great head start. Is there any history of the truck-not worth much, help bond with seller.

title will be... interesting... the state it's in does not require title for anything of this age so it's not a real show stopper, they may or may not have it. I will look at it closely soon to check serial numbers and engine casting numbers. They are going to ask for best-offers on the truck so there's no number being floated around (yet?) as I suspect no one is really aware of what it's worth. No real rust that I can see anywhere. The $6500 floated above seems like a solid price point, but as suggested I think I need to find out what an engine rebuild will really cost so that's my next research project smile
Welcome to the Stovebolt wave

I think $6500 would be a great price, but don't be surprised to see a Street Rodder's snatch it up for about $10k They'll pay top money for rust free straight sheet metal...

How much of the work will you be doing in-house?

Mike B smile
Dings and pieces of paint chipped off, filthy interior, as well as suspected major engine damage would drive the price down for me. You cannot simply find a crank and throw it in there to make it run. A broken crankshaft pretty much means that the engine is now essentially a boat anchor.
It has been "restored", so it is not considered original any longer. A big minus for me as well.
I would offer $4,000, but would not pay more than $5,000.
greatly appreciate the info, 4-6.5 is a great range I'm comfortable with. If I happen to get it my goal will be to get it driving and stopping ASAP and see what its value is then, then decide whether I want a long term project if I like it that much or if it will end up someone elses hands. Oldest car I've owned was a '71 and I mostly mess around with 80s/00s muscle cars so this is a whole new territory for me.
If it's a 1936, you've probably got a 1st. year of production 216, not a 207. That's a good thing, as people give 216's away in running condition just to get rid of them. I've got several of those "freebies" stashed away. If you're not interested in having a "numbers-correct" show truck, just about any stovebolt six from the late 1930's to early 1950's will be almost a bolt-in swap. The engine in the photo is definitely a 216 or newer- - - -the 194's, 207's, etc. look considerably different.
Are you sure it is a 207? There are some visuals that are off, valve covers are usually smooth. Coils also mount to firewall since early head is not drilled for bracket. May be worth pulling head and block casting numbers to have experts here confirm.
I would be cautious with this one as excessive money has been paid for straight sheet metal and good paint. It is a 216 but the missing flywheel cover and battery blocked into place are signs of "get it running" and not pride in ones work. Interior, bed, and 3/4 side pics would help. Ones that have sat for a long period are often more expensive to get road ready than ones not so pretty that are used up to the restore date. It IS a good start project but just be aware that presently one costs triple compared to the same twenty years ago. We used to turn one out for 10k that now runs 30k and WE make the exact same profit on both but the suppliers are driving Porsche's and sailing big boats.
Yes, this is a 1936 only 206/207 engine...casting number is 836010. The 216 was introduced in 1937.

The 206 Valve Cover was smooth, not ribbed in '36, so it's wrong.

The 206 did have the coil mounted between plugs 3 and 4.

Mike B smile
I have no idea if it's a 207, I only said that since I assumed it was original but lot happens in 70+ years. I don't doubt you're all correct and it's that 216 instead, I don't have much history on the truck so I will definitely swing by and try to find some head/block numbers on there. That sort of lowered the price if the block isn't original either (at least in my mind).

keep the great info coming, this research and learning is half the fun of a new project. smile
You may just have a 1936 207 engine. The 207's had the dip stick, draft tube/oil filler on the left side of the engine, toward the front. 1937-39 216's had the dip stick, draft tube/oil filler on the right side of the engine toward the front, to the right of the distributor. I'm not positive, but from 1940 on the 216, 235's had the dip stick to the left of the distributor. Your distributor looks to be correct for a 1936 207 with vacuum advance. Some of those early distributors had manual advance on the distributor, using a cable from inside the cab. Your foot stomper assembly for the starter also looks correct for a 1936.

Look at your passenger side engine picture and you'll see the casting number on the block '836010' and the date code of L 30 5 (Dec 30, 1935)'s the correct 206 engine...NOT a 216...the 216 T-stat housing bolts to the front of the head where the 206 bolts on top. If I had a better picture of the engine I bet the first two numbers in it's serial number are "56"...

Mike B smile
Stael it for $4k !
Where exactly is the truck located? That dictates my price also. I like it tho. Get a price together on it and post it. Im always slow to see good deals and my arms get to short for the depths of my pockets when they do come around. lol. But you never know. Timing is everything. Its only worth what someone is willing to pay.... Post it if it dont sell, your asking to much.
So I checked the code on the block, it says K590I4II , I'll start digging into what that can mean smile although that is a number someone stamped into the block, it might not be the casting number... the stamping letters are rather crooked there. I'll keep digging and try to find some more numbers on there.

Where would someone find a crank replacement in lets say a 206? are these things still available or by some miracle made by aftermarket?
Originally Posted by zracTA
So I checked the code on the block, it says K590I4II , I'll start digging into what that can mean smile although that is a number someone stamped into the block, it might not be the casting number... the stamping letters are rather crooked there. I'll keep digging and try to find some more numbers on there.

Where would someone find a crank replacement in lets say a 206? are these things still available or by some miracle made by aftermarket?

Engine Serial number K590I4II is a good number for a Commercial (1/2 ton) 1936 206.

'K' Prefix = Commercial
5901411 = unit number starting with 5500179 and ending with 6784512.

You engine was built in January 1936.

Your Block casting number will be 836010. Your head will be casting number should be 837981.

Cranks and Cams for the 206 haven't been made for over 60 years, you need to post 'wanted' ads everywhere you can on the web and keep an eye on eBay and CL, and hope you get lucky! The p/n for the Crank is 837630 and it's Forge Number is 837631.

Mike B smile
So my question is, will a 216 valve cover fit on a 207? It sure looks like a 216 valve cover to me.
Originally Posted by Mike B
The 206 Valve Cover was smooth, not ribbed in '36, so it's wrong.

After further research it looks like 1936 may be a split year for smooth vs ribbed valve covers...

My 1951 parts book has the replacement valve cover for 1934 thru 36 as being "ribbed". So are the ribbed covers replacements or late factory???

Carl, the 35/36 covers are 25-5/8" long are the 216?

Mike B smile
© The Stovebolt Forums